10 Ways to Sew with Heavy 12wt Thread

Some sewers might be stumped on what to use 12wt thread for, afterall it isn’t your traditional medium sized thread. What a lot of people don’t realize is how beautiful, bold, and versatile this thicker thread can be, and what kind of effects you can create with it. We’ll also take a closer look at the different types of 12wt thread you can find and when you might want to choose one over the other.

1. Thread Painting

12wt threads are a fantastic choice for thread painting for a few reasons. Because the thread is thicker, you can actually cover more area with less thread, making it a lot more efficient to thread paint with a 12wt thread. In addition, you’ll also find that the thread sits a little higher from the fabric. This gives a bolder textural effect to your project than using a medium weight thread would.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

2. Cross Stitch

These threads are thick enough for cross stitching projects, especially when you want to use a fabric or fibre with a finer weave. In this project, we used Spagetti™ and Fruitti™ 12wt cotton threads, which pull smoothly through the fabric due to their ultra low lint finish.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

3. Machine Embroidery

40wt threads are the standard when it comes to machine embroidery, but you can create a new look by using 12wt thread in your embroidery machine. If you have a larger design, or a design that isn’t too intricate, a 12wt thread will show the pattern much more boldly without needing to double stitch the same lines. Your pattern will also show off better due to the thicker thread.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

4. Hand Embroidery

If you love doing hand embroidery and sometimes split the strands of embroidery thread to make a finer thread, we would caution you against this. Splitting the strands of a thicker thread can weaken the thread while also giving it a lintier look. Instead of doing this, try using a 12wt thread which is comparable in size to an 8wt thread that’s been split in two. This way you won’t damage the thread, and you’ll keep your stitches looking clean and beautiful.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

5. Decorative Stitching

The decorative stitches built into most sewing machines are perfect for utilizing 12wt threads for fun, stand-out stitches. They’re perfect for decorating any project, whether it’s a stocking for your family, adding a small decorative line of stitching to a piece of clothing, or embellishing any quilt or table runner. A 12wt thread will give every decorative stitch a little more emphasis than a regular medium weight thread would.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

6. Needle Punch

Needle punching is a tool that can be used to create incredible textural effects, and it works best with thicker threads like 12wt. Depending on how you use the tool, you can make either dense loops or weave back and forth to fill in a space. This is a fantastic way to add a unique look to any project.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

7. Big Stitch Hand Quilting

12wt is one of the best threads to use for big stitch hand quilting because the thick thread really stands out against the fabric. You’ll also find it easier to handle a 12wt thread versus a medium weight thread as it is less delicate and sits better in a wide running stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

8. Machine Quilting & Longarm Quilting

If you’re not afraid of bold stitches that love to show off, a 12wt thread is the perfect choice when used for quilting. 12wt is actually the thickest thread you can put through the eye of a machine needle, so you can guarantee a quilted look where the thread adds another dimension of texture and colour.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

9. Red Work

Red work is a form of American embroidery that traditionally uses red thread and basic stitches to decorate household items. It can be completed with a simple backstitch following a traced pattern to create motifs that can decorate anything from dishcloths to quilts to cushion covers. A 12wt thread stands out beautifully against white fabric, making it ideal for outlining patterns.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

10. Sashiko

Sashiko is a Japanese embroidery technique that uses a simple running stitch to create beautiful geometric patterns or imagery. Traditionally they use white thread on an indigo dyed fabric, but these days, you can use any colours you like. Sashiko can be done by hand using a running stitch and a long hand embroidery or sashiko needle. However, you can also purchase a sashiko machine which replicates the look of a hand stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

Tell us in the comments where you’ve used 12wt threads, or where you would like to try them in a project! You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing FabuLux 40wt Trilobal Polyester Thread

When you want to add something a little extra special to your quilting, FabuLux knows how to bring that shine and color you’ve been looking for. This dazzling 40wt thread is made from trilobal polyester. Most threads are round in shape, but a trilobal polyester thread is actually triangular in shape. This allows the thread to reflect more light off its surface, giving your stitching a soft shine and lustre. It’s one of the many things that makes FabuLux unique.

Not only will this thread stand out more as a result, but it also comes in 5 solid neon colors. Don’t be intimidated, neon actually looks stunning when it’s sewn out, and it’s perfect for making your quilting stand out whether you choose to use it on contrasting fabric, or pair it with like colors for a more subtle look.

FabuLux’s remaining 35 of the total 40 colors are all variegated, with some more subtle tone-on-tone options, and a few others that really want to scream for your attention. Variegated threads are perfect for matching all the colors in your quilt blocks, so you can easily quilt edge to edge without worrying about needing to frequently change your thread colors.

This gorgeous thread is perfect for sewing on longarms, midarms, and regular home sewing machines, and comes in two sizes at 766yds and 3000yd cones. But it isn’t just a favorite for quilting. You can use FabuLux for outlining designs, decorative sewing, and even in the embroidery machine.

One of our favorite things about this thread is that it’s basically lintless. FabuLux has a beautifully clean finish that won’t add a lot of lint build up in your machines. Afterall, there’s no point in spending thousands of dollars on a well-tuned sewing machine, only to gunk it up with lint. And because FabuLux is also extremely strong while also being incredibly soft to the touch, your bed quilts will never have felt, or looked, better.

If you’re inspired to sew with FabuLux, head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Hemming Lightweight Fabrics With a Serger & Sewing Machine

We’ll show you the easiest way to make a rolled hem on chiffon fabric, or any other similar lightweight material. We’ll first demonstrate it on the serger, then with a domestic machine for those who don’t own a serger. Using the recommended materials and this technique, the result will be a beautiful rolled hem that looks just as professional as if it came from the store!

A lot of formalwear uses sheer, lightweight fabrics, and this method is a good way to keep the edge looking professional like it had never been modified. Apart from your machine, you’ll only need some small but important materials:

First, you’ll want to choose the right thread. We’ll be using a 100wt poly thread called InvisaFil, which is going to blend really well in the fabric so you don’t even see it. And because the thread is so fine, it will stitch more easily through the thin fabric, resulting in fewer ruffles. It’s important to use a very fine thread like this because apart from showing less, it also won’t weigh down the lightweight fabric either.

Because the thread is so fine, we’re also going to choose a needle with a smaller eye. Choose a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle which works best on light fabrics.

Finally, I’m going to use a bobbin that’s been pre-wound with DecoBob thread. This is an 80wt poly thread that comes already pre-wound on a plastic sided bobbin which will pair well with the top thread. You can alternatively wind your own bobbin with the InvisaFil thread, just remember wind it slowly since the thin thread tends to float away. If you’re going to hem your fabric on a serger, obviously you won’t use a bobbin so you’ll want DecoBob thread on a spool for your lower loopers.

On a Serger: 

We are going to use a 3 thread rolled hem, with InvisaFil in the needle and upper looper, and DecoBob in the lower looper. Consult with your serger manual and adjust the stitch length and cutting blade to get a close narrow hem.

Once your machine is threaded, do a test run on similar fabric to make sure your fabric is not puckering. You may have to adjust your differential settings to get a flat, smooth edge. 

Mark your hem with a disappearing marking pen, and serge exactly along your marked line. This is the simplest method for a quick fine hem on chiffon or similar fine fabric.

On a Domestic Sewing Machine With a Rolled Hem:

If you want to hem fine fabric on a domestic machine, this two step method will help you achieve perfect results. Mark where you want your finished hem and cut 1” below the marked line. We will trim this closer later. Be sure to spread the fabric out flat and even as these types of fabrics can easily shift during cutting. Thread your machine with InvisaFil on top and DecoBob in the bobbin. Now you’re ready to sew!

Using your fingers, tuck the edge of the fabric over 1/8” below the finished hem length and stitch very close to this folded edge. Do this all the way to the end of the fabric. If you’re hemming a sleeve or skirt, or anything where your piece is a loop, we recommend starting and ending on the seam to help hide the backstitching.

When you’re done, use a pair of sharp, fine tipped scissors to cut away the remaining fabric as close as you can to your line of stitching without snipping into the stitching itself. Exercise caution so you don’t accidentally snip over your seam. Do this all the way to the end.

Press all the way around to sink the stitches into the fabric and smooth any puckers.

Once you’ve finished trimming the excess fabric and pressing, tuck the edge 1/8” over one more time (along the finished hem marking) and stitch it down again over the original line of stitching to complete your rolled hem. If you have trouble tucking the edge over with your fingers and keeping the 1/8” length consistent, you can press the edge down with an iron before sewing.

That’s all there is to it! You can see how little the thread shows in the finished hem as well how flat the edge sits because the fine thread doesn’t add extra bulk. As most hems have a curved edge, doing the hem in two steps helps keep your hem even and consistent and eliminates any problems. These materials combined with these simple techniques are all you need for perfect, professional hemming.

(Left: done with serger. Right: done with domestic machine.)

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Best Practices to Store Your Sewing Thread

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from early fading and aging.

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. While thread doesn’t have a set expiry date, there are a few factors that can lead to faster aging. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from aging early, which can lead to weakened thread and faded colors.

If you love to show off all the pretty colors in your thread stash, you might mount them on your wall. There’s no better way to decorate your sewing room than with a wall full of gorgeous threads, and this makes it really easy to see all the colors you have to choose from all at once. However, if you’re storing your threads out in the open this way, it’s a good idea to take note of the sun exposure in the room. If you have a lot of sunlight shining on your threads for hours every day, the UV light can speed up the breakdown of the thread fibres, leading to weakened thread that breaks more easily after years of exposure.

This UV light can also cause the thread color to fade on the exposed surface, especially with red colors. These aren’t things that will happen overnight, but if you’re going through some of your threads more slowly, it can happen if you’re not paying attention over a few years. So, if you have some threads that you don’t use as often, it might be better to put them away in a closed container away from the sun.

Choose a home storage container with opaque drawers or boxes, something that the sun won’t penetrate. Keeping your threads put away in a closed container will also prevent dust from landing on the thread. While dust won’t impact the quality of the thread itself, it can come off while you’re sewing with it in the machine, adding to the lint build up inside.

Something to consider while your threads are stored in containers is the use of a Wonder Guard. This little sheet wraps around your spool of thread and stops it from unravelling. It’s perfect for organizing your thread and will prevent a lot of mess and tangles in your storage containers.

Another factor to consider is the climate you live in. If your home is somewhere very dry, you may wish to consider running a humidifier in your house. An excessively dry climate can also lead to the fibres of your thread drying out and weakening as a result. On the other hand, a very moist climate can also cause thread fibres to break down. You should choose to store your threads in a location in your home that isn’t too hot and dry, like near your furnace, but also away from direct water exposure.

We hope this helps you choose the best storage space for your threads so they can keep working long and hard for you! Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

7 Ways to Use Iron Fusible Thread

We’re going to show you a very useful tool for your sewing room: iron fusible thread. You can use this either in your bobbin or as a top thread, and it’s a great way to do everything from appliqué, lining up fabric patterns, or even making the perfect quilt binding. WonderFil’s Iron ‘n Fuse thread will actually melt and glue your fabric down when exposed to the heat of an iron. But it’s not permanent, you can still pull it up and move your pieces around, then re-fuse it in place if you don’t like the placement. There’s a lot of things you can use it for, so let’s check them out.

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1: Matching stripes, plaids, & patterns:

You don’t need a sewing machine for this one. Lay the thread on the right side of the fabric, along where you want the seam to be. Then take your second piece, line the pattern up to where you want it, and leave it right sides facing together. Give your fabric a quick press and the fusible thread will keep everything in place without pins!

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2: Applique:

Wind the Iron ‘n Fuse on an empty bobbin and use a regular sewing thread on top. Stitch around the appliqué shape, press, remove the top thread, and then trim closely. Use a decorative stitch on the raw edges of the fabric to finish appliquéing it down. The result is a natural looking appliqué without the stiffness of fusible interfacing; it also helps to reduce the puckering caused by using pins. If you happen to place your appliqué incorrectly, you can peel it up, move it and re-fuse it in place.

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3: Binding a quilt:

Place your folded binding on the wrong side of your quilt. Use a tight zig zag to attach it to the quilt, with fusible thread in your bobbin and regular thread in the top.  Now turn your binding to the right side and fuse over the seam. You can now stitch your binding down, stitching close to the edge of the binding. You will be sure to catch the underside of your binding.

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4: In the lower loopers of a serger: 

Serge around your hemline with fusible thread in the lower looper of your serger and regular thread in the needle and upper looper. Turn up hem and fuse, then turn your work to the right side and stitch for a simple turned up hem.

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5: Curved hem:

Run a row of long basting stitches along your curved hem edge, with a regular thread in the needle and the fusible thread in the bobbin. Gently pull up on your bobbin thread to ease in the shape of your curved hem, and then fuse your hem in place. This will make hand stitching your hem in place easier. You could also turn your work right side up to machine stitch your hem without worrying about the hem being distorted on the underside.

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6: Placing zippers:

Baste your zipper opening closed, then press the seam open. Run a row  of stitching along both seam allowances, with the fusible thread in the needle and the bobbin. Center your zipper under your seam, and press both sides to fuse down the seam allowances and at the same time fuse your zipper in place. You can now stitch around your zipper without worrying about it shifting. When your stitching is complete, remove the basting thread that holds the opening closed.

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7: Making pleats crisp:

Mark your pleat lines on your fabric (both inside pleats and outside pleats). Now stitch a scant 1/8” away from the marked lines, with regular thread in the top and fusible thread in the bobbin (the bobbin thread should be on the inside of the pleat). Using a press cloth, press along your marked lines. The fusible thread will help to make the pleats crisp.

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Let us know how you like to use iron fusible thread in the comments, or if this blog inspired you to try something new using iron fusible thread! You can also watch these tips in action in the video below.

Inspired to sew with Iron ‘n Fuse? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Metallic Embroidered Tie Tutorial (Free Embroidery Pattern Included!)

If you’re looking for that perfect gift for the father, husband, or friend in your life, this personalized embroidered tie will make a statement in any board room. We’ve even included 3 free digitized embroidery designs for you to download! All you need to do is choose your thread colours and add initials.

We have included 3 totally free digitized designs for you to download: a game controller, a fish and a bug. You can choose which you’d like to download and in what file type by clicking here. We are showing the finished product with a personalized monogram, but we leave these for you to add, so you can have the right initials.

We have chosen to use a purchased black tie as the backdrop for our embroidery. You can choose any color, but a solid color will show off the design better. To fit the included designs, the tie must be at least 2 inches wide at the point where you want your design to sit.

We have decided to stitch out the design in WonderFil’s metallic thread, Spotlite. Spotlite is a 40 wt metallic with a rayon core. Since rayon has no stretch, the core won’t stretch as a polyester or nylon core might. That stretching can cause the metallic wrap to separate, which causes the shredding and breaking that sometimes happens with metallic threads. Since the rayon core in Spotlite doesn’t stretch, that is less likely to happen, so you will have trouble free embroidery stitches, and a soft finish to the design.

We will be pairing the Spotlite with our 80wt DecoBob in the bobbin. Even very dense stitching stays soft when you have a fine bobbin thread and the evenly wound prewound bobbins will also ensure that you have no tension issues as you stitch out your design. As always, we will be using a Thread Tamer and a WonderGuard to tame the curl in the metallic thread, and a large eye 90/14 topstitch needle. As you will be using a sticky stabilizer to stabilize the tie, you can also use a universal super nonstick needle as another option. See our video on stitching trouble free with metallic thread without the headache to learn our tricks on sewing with metallic thread.

To begin, we will hoop this sticky stabilizer, paper side up, in the hoop. We are going to lightly score the paper around the edge of the hoop with a pin, and from corner to corner, so we can easily pull the paper away. Mark the center so you can easily place your tie on the right spot.

Decide where you want the center of your design to sit on the tie and mark the spot with some tailor’s chalk. With a stitch ripper, open up the back of the tie for at least 6”, so your tie can sit flat and open on the stabilizer. Using your hoop grid, place the tie centered on the hoop and smooth and press it in place so it sits flat and even.

Download the digitized design you prefer, in the format appropriate for your embroidery machine. If you choose, add the text or monogram from your machine’s text to the design before proceeding. Thread your machine with Spotlite in the first color, with a Decobob prewound bobbin in the bottom. Stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated. We have included the color numbers of Spotlite we used for our designs.

When your stitchout is complete, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and trim away on the underside of the tie. Trim all the threads, then using a hand needle and DecoBob, hand stitch the back of the tie closed again.

And there you have it. The man in your life will be proud to wear this fun, customized tie, and it is sure to be a conversation starter!

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

4 Popular Thread Myths You Should Ignore

There’s a lot of sewing myths out there, and a lot of the time they were made because of a lack of thread technology advancement or there simply weren’t any other choices available. We’re going to debunk these 4 popular thread myths that are simply no longer true.

Thread Myth #1: Always Use the Same Thread Top & Bottom

One of the most common thread myths we hear is that you must always use the same thread on the top and in the bobbin. This is simply not true, and here’s why. As your machine sews, the top and bottom threads are pulling against each other for tension. By choosing a finer bobbin thread such as this 80wt cottonized polyester called DecoBob, the bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread. This allows for a smoother tension and fewer thread breakages.

If you’re using a 50 or 40 weight thread to sew, which is the most common medium weight thread, the thread adds more extra bulk to the seams than most people realize. This 80wt bobbin thread is almost half the size of 50wt thread in comparison, and as a result will allow the stitches to lay flatter and the bobbin thread will show less.

This is most especially noticeable in embroidery where you have a lot of dense stitching all in an area. In this embroidery, the top section used a 50wt white bobbin thread. Below it, we switched to a white 80wt pre-wound bobbin. You can literally see the difference it makes simply by choosing to use a finer thread in the bobbin.

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Thread Myth #2: Embroidery Thread is Always 40wt Polyester

While we’re on the topic of embroidery, another thread myth we frequently hear is that an embroidery thread should always be a 40wt polyester. Don’t get us wrong, we love 40wt polyester for embroidery and it’s a great choice, but you can also achieve better results by changing up your thread depending on what kind of embroidery project you’re doing.

For instance, we stitched out several sizes of this embroidery pattern going from larger to smaller. The embroidery at the larger size looks great, however as you get smaller and smaller, you start to lose the detail and the lines become squished together. Any embroidery with many fine details benefits from using a finer thread. Here we used DecoBob 80wt thread in the top and bobbin and you can see how many details are kept at a smaller size.

For another comparison, we stitched out some lace using a 50wt cotton. We then stitched out the same lace pattern using DecoBob 80wt thread and you can see how many more details show up in the lace with the finer thread. So if you’re doing any embroidery with a lot of little details, always choose a fine thread to make it with. The results are worth it.

However, polyester isn’t your only choice for embroidery thread, what about rayon? Rayon and polyester have some differences, namely that rayon has a more beautiful, glossy sheen in comparison to polyester which carries more of a fragmented, artificial sheen. Rayon is also softer and more flexible to the touch, while polyester is stiffer and rougher to the touch. However, polyester is also able to withstand mild bleaching and is resistant to most chemicals while rayon is not. Rayon also tends to weaken when exposed to water and should therefore just be used for decorative elements and not construction purposes.

These are both good choices for embroidery but knowing the properties of each material will help you make a more informed choice when choosing the best one for your project. Don’t forget that cotton thread is also a beautiful embroidery choice as it offers an organic, matte look. And metallic thread which is also a stunning choice for anything you want to pop.

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Thread Myth #3: Metallic Threads Are Fickle and Always Break Too Easily

Metallic threads have a reputation for being fragile and difficult to sew with. However, it’s best to keep in mind that 1) not all metallic threads are made with the same quality, and 2) thread technology has advanced from the last few decades and many of the previous problems have now been addressed. This is Spotlite, a metallic thread made by WonderFil threads. Something that makes it unique is that it uses rayon for its core, meaning the metallic foil is wrapped around a core thread made of rayon.

Many companies opt for polyester as the core due to its strength, however we chose a rayon core because rayon has zero stretch to it. As polyester tends to carry more stretch to it, as the thread goes through all the bends in the machine, the thread can stretch around those corners, causing it to break. As rayon carries no stretch at all, this causes significantly fewer thread breaks and allows for a smooth sewing experience. It also means that stretching doesn’t pull the metallic foil away from the core, which would change the texture and reveal a different colour in the stitching.

We always recommend using a DecoBob 80wt pre-wound bobbin in the bottom with any metallic thread. As mentioned before, this will allow the bobbin to always give way to the top tension, resulting in fewer thread breaks and tension problems. Check out our video on sewing with metallic threads (without the headache) for a deeper look at sewing with metallic threads!

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Thread Myth #4: Polyester Thread Cuts the Fabric So You Should Only Quilt with Cotton

This is one of the most common thread myths we hear because decades ago there was some truth to it. Since then, thread technology has made leaps and bounds in advancement, and polyester threads have become one of the easiest and best choices to sew with. Not only does the polyester thread not damage the fabric it is sewn into, it actually lasts longer and is more resilient than cotton over the years. It also carries next to no lint, meaning you’ll need to clean out your machine less frequently.

Let us know in the comment section if you learned something from this video or if you have your own thread myth to debunk. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Sewing the BEST Stitch in the Ditch Tutorial

Stitch in the ditch is a technique where you sew directly in the fold of a seam to hide your stitching, while securing your quilt block down. This way you don’t see any quilting around that area of the block. If you’re looking to sew stitch in the ditch on your latest quilt or project, we have the best tips on making it look invisible and perfect. Let’s take a closer look!

The first and most important thing to do before you even begin is choosing the right thread. We recommend using InvisaFil, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread that is incredibly fine and hides in the fabric wherever it’s stitched. A basic colour such as grey, or a color that even slightly matches the fabric will be enough for it to hide almost completely. This will ensure your stitching shows as absolutely little as possible, even if you accidentally sew outside the seam.

Because this thread is finer, you can choose a 70/10 or 80/12 size needle. This smaller needle will punch a smaller hole in the fabric so that the fine thread won’t be sitting in too large of a hole.

You can use the same thread in the bobbin, or alternatively a similar thread called DecoBob. DecoBob is also a cottonized polyester thread, but it’s marginally thicker at 80wt. This gives your stitching a slightly stronger hold and it also is available as convenient pre-wound bobbins. These pre-wounds will give you a better stitch consistency and even tension.

Choose a machine foot that is marks the center needle position. This makes it easier to line up the seam you’ll be stitching into.

Start from one end of the seam and carefully sew all the way to the end. Don’t forget to back stitch at the beginning and end.

Don’t worry if you fall off your path a little, if you’re using the correct thread then it won’t even be visible.

That’s actually all there is to it! Simply choosing the right tools for the job is the best way to get perfect results, even if it’s your first time trying this technique.

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Spotlite™ 40wt Rayon Core Metallic Thread

Metallic threads are a gorgeous choice for any decorative stitching, machine embroidery, or decorative quilting. They shine in a way no other thread can. But many people struggle to use metallic threads because they can be a little more fickle to sew with than others. Let’s take a closer look at WonderFil’s 40wt metallic thread called Spotlite and what makes this special thread stand out.

Metallic threads are designed with a thin metallic foil wrapped around a core made of another material. Many thread manufacturers will use polyester for the core because polyester is a strong, durable material. However, polyester also tends to carry a stretch to it. As the thread passes through the thread path in the machine and around all those bends, it can stretch around those bends, causing thread breaks. Stronger doesn’t always equal better in this case.

This is why WonderFil takes a different approach and uses rayon for the metallic thread’s core. Rayon carries zero stretch to it, meaning it won’t stretch around the bends in a machine’s thread path. This leads to fewer thread breaks and shredding, as well as a higher stitch quality.

We always recommend choosing a quality metallic thread as not all metallic threads are made equally. The quality of the thread you use will directly impact how easy it is to sew with, which is especially noticeable when using a metallic thread.

So, what can you use metallic threads for? The possibilities are truly endless. Because of metallic’s beautiful sheen, you can achieve a look and texture not possible with any other kind of thread. Even a single stitch of metallic can add a pop of sparkle to your quilts. Should you choose to quilt with metallic thread, we recommend using it only for art quilts, wall hung quilts, or small areas of decorative stitching on bed quilts, as metallic thread doesn’t have the same strength as regular quilting threads.

Quilting with Spotlite™ 40wt rayon core metallic.

Denser stitching such as thread painting will really show off the iridescent beauty of Spotlite thread. Artist Teri Cherne stitched layers of Spotlite to create this stunning thread painted piece. You can also use it in the embroidery machine for a beautiful metallic look to your embroidery designs. This thread is an exceptional choice for freestanding lace patterns, and you can easily and quickly make freestanding lace ornaments for the holidays.

For best results, always pair Spotlite thread with a super fine bobbin thread like DecoBob 80wt cottonized polyester. This fine thread plays nice with any top thread, which makes a big difference in the stitch quality of a metallic thread. It will also further reduce thread breaks and shredding, and prevent tension changes.

You should also ensure you’re using the right needle for this thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle, or a 90/14 metallic needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye, giving the metallic thread more space to move around and preventing the thread from shredding. Metallic needles are designed to shield the thread as it passes through the fabric, which also prevents shredding. Both needles are a good choice when using this thread. You can also use Spotlite on the longarm machine with a size 16 needle.

While metallic threads aren’t usually recommended for hand sewing, you can get away with it if you cut shorter strands. Choose a sharps needle with an eye large enough to fit the thread and only cut strands no longer than 18 inches long, or you may end up with tangling issues.

You can choose from a range of 40 different colours with Spotlite. Or pick up a Spotlite tube which includes 4 coordinated colours, as well as a free sheet of Wonder Guard.

If you haven’t used a Wonder Guard before, this handy little thread guard is a must for metallic threads. Simply wrap it around the spool, snugly but not too tightly, and you can actually sew with it on.

If you’ve used metallic threads before, you’ll notice they tend to have a curl to them, or a memory. This is the thread holding the shape of the spool it was wrapped around. A Wonder Guard will help pull those curls off the thread as the thread draws off the spool, preventing those curls from entering the machine and messing up your tension. They’re also perfect for storing the thread when you’re not using it!

For our guide on how to sew with metallic threads easily, don’t forget to check out our video, “How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)”.

Inspired to sew with Spotlite? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)

Ever tried sewing with metallic threads and struggled with breakages and tension problems? It doesn’t need to be that way because metallic thread technology has come a long way, and we’re here to share some easy tips on how to make these dazzling threads run through your machine like magic. Just follow these easy steps and you too can add metallic threads to your sewing arsenal!

We’re going to tackle something a lot of people have struggled with: sewing with metallic threads. These threads can be intimidating to some people who have had a bad experience with them in the past, and we’re here to tell you that doesn’t need to be the case. Keep these simple steps in mind and you’ll be stitching with metallics stress-free!

First off, not every metallic thread is made the same. You’ll always want to use a high quality metallic thread, which will make all the difference when sewing with it. A lot of companies use a polyester core in their metallic threads because they think polyester is stronger.

However, polyester will also stretch more, so when the thread runs through all those bends in the machine, it will pull and stretch and increase the likelihood of it breaking. A stretchy core also means that when the thread is stitched out, it will stretch away from the metallic foil wrapped on top, exposing a white core which will show in an ugly way in your stitching.

WonderFil uses a rayon core in its Spotlite metallic threads, which has no stretch to it, which greatly reduces the likelihood of it breaking. It also means the core won’t stretch away from the foil in your stitching, so your stitches will look the way it’s intended to.

Now one of the most important things to do when sewing with a metallic thread is to use the correct bobbin thread. We strongly recommend a lighter weight bobbin thread such as DecoBob 80wt, and you’ll want to choose something like this because it won’t fight for tension with the metallic in the top. A lighter bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread, and it will also greatly reduce the bulk in your stitching so your needle won’t be pushing through more material. This will make a huge difference when sewing with a metallic thread.

The next thing you’ll want to keep in mind is which needle you’re using. If you’re sewing on a domestic machine or embroidery machine, use a 90/14 topstitch needle or a 90/14 metallic needle. If you’re using it on a longarm, use a size 16 needle. Always make sure when starting a project that you have a new needle in your machine, as even a small burr in the eye or a dull needle can cause a lot of grief.

Now these next steps aren’t necessary to run a metallic thread, but they will make your life easier. Metallic threads tend to carry more memory, meaning they’ll curl up on themselves a little. If the thread enters your machine this way it can cause tangling and thread breakages. A thread stand like the Thread Tamer has an attachment with multiple slots at the top where you can weave your thread through, which will help pull those little knots and curls out before it has a chance to enter your machine.

If you do not own a thread stand with this attachment, you can put your thread in a large cup or bowl behind your machine, which will give the thread a chance to relax before it enters your machine. However, a thread stand will still do a better job of this. 

Finally, you can use a Wonder Guard thread guard to additionally help pull those little curls out of the metallic thread and keep it from sliding around the spool as it comes off. The Wonder Guard is a wrap that clings to itself, which you can place snugly but not tightly around the metallic spool. Unlike a thread net which clings tightly against the spool and can change your tension, the Wonder Guard will sit over top the thread so it won’t change the tension at all.

By following these few simple steps, you can use metallic threads to embellish any kind of project. These threads are stunning to look at, so add them to your sewing arsenal without the headache. 

We hope you were able to learn something from this video and can feel more confident and comfortable when working with metallic threads. If you still have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comment section below! Inspired to sew with Spotlite™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué Using Iron Fusible Thread (FREE Pattern Included!)

Raw edge appliqué is a simple, fast, and easy way to appliqué your pieces together because it doesn’t require any extra steps. The most common way to sew raw edge appliqué is to use fusible stabilizer, however this can leave your appliqué looking and feeling stiff. In this video, we’ll show you how to sew raw edge appliqué using iron fusible thread, as well as some tips and tools to make it easier. Included is a free pattern to practice with or turn into your own unique project!

Trace your appliqué shapes onto the fabric using a temporary pen or piece of chalk and cut them out. We always recommend using batik fabric for raw edge appliqué because the fabric is less prone to fraying. If your shapes are more complex, or have a lot of angles in them, we suggest using a smaller, sharp pair of scissors to do your cutting with as it makes it much easier to do.

We’re going to load the machine with two different threads. In the top is a temporary regular sewing thread that will be pulled out later. However, in the bobbin we’ll be winding this thread called Iron ‘n Fuse. This is an iron fusible thread that will fuse the appliqué pieces to the fabric.

If you have appliqué pieces that have smaller shapes, you can add an optional layer of water soluble stabilizer underneath to make it easier to sew on the machine. You don’t need to cut it out to match the shape of your appliqué perfectly, just cut out a rough shape that your appliqué will easily fit over.

Increase your machine’s stitch length slightly to make it easier to pull the top thread out later. Sew all the way around your appliqué piece.

Position your appliqué on your project and press with high heat. The best part about using Iron ‘n Fuse thread is that it can still be lifted and repositioned as needed. It won’t fuse permanently to your project. Once your appliqué is in place, you can pull out the top thread.

To stitch your appliqué down permanently, you can use any variety of threads depending on the look you wish to achieve. The choice is yours, however for my appliqué I’ll be using this 50wt variegated cotton called Tutti. I love this thread because it’s been double gassed so it has a clean, ultra low lint finish, and the colour changes on the thread are quicker.

Sew around your appliqué about 1/8th of an inch away from the edge. If you want to make a bolder outline on your appliqué, you can go around again a second time. Raw edge appliqué tends to have a scrappy look, so don’t worry about making your lines perfectly aligned with each other.

Alternatively, you can hide the raw edge of the appliqué by selecting a satin stitch on your machine and sewing over the edge to cover it. We chose to stitch a bold outline around the appliqué pieces using this thicker 12wt thread called Spagetti. Like Tutti, it’s also a low lint cotton, but this thicker thread is a great way to add emphasis or an outline to a motif in your project.

After you’re finished permanently stitching your pieces down, don’t forget to wash your project to remove the water soluble stabilizer, if you chose to use it. No matter which creative way you choose to finish your raw edge appliqué project, this method is a fool-proof way to reduce the stiffness of an iron-on stabilizer often used in this technique.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

5 Ways to Use Water Soluble Thread

Usually a thread is meant to hold things together, not disappear when exposed to water! However, water soluble thread has a lot of fantastic uses that you may not have thought of before. (Pro tip: don’t forget you can’t lick the end of this thread when threading a needle). Here’s a list of 5 great ways you can use water soluble thread so you can both improve your sewing and sew more efficiently!

This is Rinse ‘n Gone, and like its name sounds, it will actually melt and disappear when exposed to water. Remember: Do not lick the end of it to help thread your needle! We also recommend storing it in a sealed bag in a dry place as direct exposure to liquid can wreck your spool.

Basting quilts or clothing:
There’s a lot of times you might want to baste when sewing a project together. The beauty of using water soluble thread is that you don’t have to pull the basting stitches back out when you’re finished with them!

You can use it to baste your quilt top in place to keep it from shifting when you’re quilting it. Start by positioning the piece you want to quilt using pins, then using a hand sewing needle threaded with Rinse ‘n Gone, make big basting stitches across the project, removing the pins as each section is secured. Now you can quilt my project without needing to worrying about quilting around the pins. The basting can easily be removed by putting the quilt or project in the washing machine on a gentle cycle, or simply scrubbing out the thread with a wet toothbrush.

Use Rinse ‘n Gone to baste clothing pieces together. Sometimes a pattern will call for easing in sleeves or gathering fabric, and a basting stitch is perfect to do that temporarily before you stitch it down permanently. Like a quilt top, just give your project a wash in the machine when you’re finished, or take a damp toothbrush or sponge and gently brush it away. The thread will disappear like magic.

Trapunto:
Water soluble thread works great when securing your initial layer of batting when doing trapunto. First, draw your trapunto design with a washaway marker. Now place two layers of high loft batting under your design and stitch around your raised layer with Rinse ‘n Gone thread in the needle, and a bobbin thread in the bottom, such as DecoBob 80wt thread. Turn your work around and trim the batting away close to the stitch line.

Next, layer your piece with your regular batting and backing. Quilt around your design as desired with your chosen quilting thread, leaving the raised layers unquilted. When your work is complete, simply wash your project or spray with water and brush with a toothbrush to remove the Rinse ‘n Gone.

Slashed textured fabric:
Here’s an interesting texture you can give your fabric. Using three layers of fabric, with the top two rights sides facing up, and the bottom right side facing down, hand baste it all together with big stitches using Rinse ‘n Gone.

When it’s all secure, load your sewing machine with a permanent sewing thread and sew straight lines across one end of your fabric to the other, about a half inch apart or following the edge of your presser foot.

When you’re finished, take a pair of scissors and snip only the top layer of fabric between the lines of stitching. Wash your project and give the raw edges of the fabric a brush, resulting in this textured fabric you can use on anything from quilts to bags, to clothing and accessories.

Perfect appliqué:
Take two pieces of the fabric, one you want to appliqué with and the other a scrap piece that can be discarded later. Place the appliqué fabric right side down. Load your machine with Rinse ‘n Gone in the bobbin and a regular sewing thread in the top. I’ll be using DecoBob, an 80wt cottonized polyester thread, since it will allow my appliqué to lay flat and make my miters sharper. Trace your appliqué shape on the fabric and sew along the lines. You won’t need to backstitch at the beginning or end.

Once you’ve gone all the way around, make sure you trim the excess fabric close to the sewing line. Remember to snip around all curves and into corners so you can have sharp, mitered lines.

Now you’ll have a piece that will need to be turned right side out. Snip an X through the middle of your scrap fabric to make a turning hole, being careful not to cut the fabric on the other side.

Take a hot iron and make sure the steam setting is as high as it will go. Press your appliqué with steam to make the soluble thread disappear. If that doesn’t remove all of the water soluble thread, you can also scrub it away with a wet toothbrush. The remaining top thread can be pulled out and discarded.

Now pull the fabric pieces apart, discard the scrap fabric, and you have a perfectly turned piece of appliqué that can be sewn onto your project. Choose either a decorative stitch with a medium to thick thread if you want the thread to show, or a fine thread with a zigzag stitch if you want the thread to disappear.

Stitching together small pieces of wash away stabilizer:
Do you have lots of smaller pieces of wash away stabilizer that you want to use in your embroidery machine, but they won’t fit in the larger hoop? Rinse ‘n Gone is the perfect way to sew those smaller pieces of stabilizer together because it will wash away with the stabilizer when you’re finished the embroidery. You can choose to use this as a top thread and bobbin thread in your machine, or stitch it by hand.

Holding down a design in a large embroidery hoop:
Sometimes when doing a smaller design in a large embroidery hoop, your project will end up shifting. Adding some basting stitches with Rinse ‘n Gone will prevent your embroidery from moving while the machine is stitching, and you can easily wash or brush away the stitches once it’s completed. By preventing the layers from shifting, your embroidery designs will be much less likely to pucker, especially with small or highly detailed designs.

Embroidery design without basting with Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design with basting using Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design after Rinse ‘n Gone is washed out.

Let us know how you like to use wash away thread in the comments, or share a project you made using Rinse ‘n Gone! Inspired to add Rinse ‘n Gone to your sewing room? Find it in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com or to order online.

Thread Talks: Thread Terminology Words You May Not Know

There’s a lot of different terms used in the sewing world, so what do they all mean? In this video, we break down the variety of terms used in the thread industry, what they stand for and why we use them. Get threaducated in our Thread Talks videos, become a savvy thread expert and expand your knowledge of the sewing industry!

Thread Weight:

The sewing industry uses thread weight to describe the thickness or thinness of a thread. For instance, a 100 weight thread will be super fine, while an 3 weight thread will be closer in thickness to yarn. While this term is used almost ubiquitously by sewing companies, there isn’t really a definitive system to measure it. Most manufacturers know how thick a 40 weight thread looks like and will use that as a reference point to base other thread weights on. However, since there is no definitive system to measure thread weight, you might find some minor variation between thread weights from different thread companies.

Tex:

Another way to measure thread thickness is by tex. This is a more technical way to measure thread as opposed to weight. It is defined by how many grams 1000m of that yarn weighs. So for example, if 1000m of a certain thread weighs 20 grams then it’s tex 20. Or if 1000m of the thread weighs 30 grams, then it’s tex 30. With tex, the higher the number, it usually results in a thicker thread. Whereas with weight, it’s defined by the higher the number, the thinner the thread. However, if you have a denser thread, or the thread is made from a heavier material such as steel wool, you might end up with a higher tex despite the strands not being a smaller diameter than a cotton thread with the same tex. This is why we use weight to measure most of our thread lines, with some exceptions.

Mercerization:

Mercerization is a standard process used on cotton yarn. You’ll notice that almost all cotton sewing thread is mercerized, but what exactly does that mean? Cotton yarn is mercerized by soaking hanks of it in a caustic soda that is pulled and stretched repeatedly between rods. This process loosens the fibres to help it absorb dye in the next stage of manufacturing. However as a result of this process, it also slightly increases the strength of the cotton and gives the yarn a silkier, more lustrous appearance. Natural raw cotton material is dull looking, however a mercerized cotton has a soft gloss to it.

Long Staple Egyptian Cotton (or Giza Cotton)

Cotton is made up of multiple fibres that is taken and spun together into strands to make thread. The best quality fibres are the longest fibres as these will create a significantly less linty thread. You can see this for yourself by taking longer strands of hair and twisting them, then doing the same with shorter strands of hair. The longer hair has fewer ends poking out than the shorter strands of hair. This is what the term “long staple cotton” is referring to.

WonderFil manufactures all of its cotton thread only from long staple cotton, one of the highest calibres of cotton fibre quality. This cotton can only be grown in moist, mild climates, a few of which can be found in the southern United States or the delta region of Egypt. Even in Egypt there is variation in climates. For instance, Giza cotton is an extra long staple Egyptian cotton grown in close proximity to the Nile river, a veritable oasis in the otherwise dry climate. Because of the Nile’s mineral rich water and the region’s warm, humid climate, it makes the perfect environment for the highest quality cotton to be grown. For example, Efina 60wt thread is manufactured from this extra long fibre to create a clean, ultra low lint thread that looks and feels gorgeous.

Gassing:

Gassing is a process some thread manufacturers do to their cotton threads to reduce its lint. The thread passes between two flames, removing about 80% of the lint from its surface. WonderFil actually repeats this process a second time, so the remaining 20% of the lint has another 80% removed. This double gassing in combination with the long staple Egyptian cotton its spun from results in an extremely low lint cotton thread.

Because gassing a thread adds cost to the manufacturing process, some companies choose instead to cover the thread with glue or residue to keep the cotton fibres lying flat and give the illusion that its low on lint. However this residue will still come off in the sewing machine and can often be even more difficult to clean out than lint. Knowing whether a thread has been gassed or not is a great reference to its quality. To learn more about gassing, don’t forget to check out our video that goes into detail about gassing thread.

Let us know if you still have questions about any other sewing industry terms we may have missed. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Introducing Alison Glass Eleganza™ Perle Cotton

Good things do come in small packages. Introducing this stunning new collection by Alison Glass for WonderFil® threads. Your favourite #8 perle cotton Eleganza™ thread now comes in 48 brand new colors designed by Alison Glass to match her fabric collections. It’s truly a match made in heaven.

For those who can’t get enough, you can find these threads in four pack varieties: Stars, Sun,  Flora, and Fauna. Each pack includes 12 perle cotton balls each, with Stars containing 12 stunning variegated colors, and the other three with a beautiful variety of solid shades. With colors this delectable, we truly couldn’t resist all four packs.

But this thread isn’t just pretty to look at. Eleganza™ is a 100% long staple Egyptian perle cotton thread that has been double gassed, resulting in a beautifully smooth and lustrous finish that glides through all types of fabric and fibres. It also has a strong, tight twist and doesn’t like to unravel. That means you’ll be able to create tight, firm stitches that look and feel both gorgeous and professional.

So what can you use this thread for? This is a #8 size thread, which is ideal for all kinds of hand embellishment, big stitch hand quilting, visible mending, sashiko, and even couching and bobbin work on a sewing machine. It’s perfect for both beginner and experienced sewists. You can really showcase texture and color with this thread like no other.

We recommend a milliners size 1, long darner size 1, or a chenille size 24 hand sewing needle with this thread. That will ensure you don’t create too large of a hole in your fabric, nor will you end up with too small of a hole for the thread to comfortably fit through.

Alison Glass Stitch Club, Available May – November, 2020

We’re excited to announce a new 6 month stitch club program with Alison Glass! Each month will have its own stitch style theme (kantha, sashiko, embroidery, etc.) with projects that feature these gorgeous threads. Members will receive a mini magazine-style PDF each month that includes a new hand stitching project and tutorial, featured fiber artists, further reading and inspiration, tips, tools, and material suggestions, and other inspirational and fun content.

To learn more about Alison Glass + WonderFil Eleganza™ threads, or to join the stitch club, visit: https://alisonglass.com/product-category/stitch-club/

The newest member of our thread family: FabuLux

WonderFil’s Newest Thread Line: FabuLux!

After making its debut during this year’s International Quilt Market in Houston, TX, there’s already some buzz going on about WonderFil’s newest thread line. So what’s big the deal you may ask? Here’s what we have to tell you:

Similar to our Master Quilter thread, FabuLux is a versatile 40wt, 3-ply trilobal polyester thread that is designed for the longarm as well as midarm and domestic sewing machines. Available in 700m (766yd) spools and 2743m (3000yd) cones, FabuLux has a brilliant and beautifully bright lustre while also feeling soft and supple to the touch - making this a fantastic choice for quilting.

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All colours in this line were chosen by Debby Brown, ((http://www.debbybrownquilts.com/)) an international teacher and quilter. Available for the first time in any WonderFil thread line are five intense neon colours for those projects where you really want the thread to stand out and show off! The other 35 colours are all gorgeous variegated choices for added dimension and variety in your pieces.

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We’re delighted to finally offer another quality thread to use on longarm machines, and we hope that you and your quilts enjoy it! FabuLux is due to hit store shelves in the next few weeks, so ask your local WonderFil retailer about it. Or check our events calendar to see if WonderFil will be at a show or event near you!

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With Love and Threads,

WonderFil