Binding Quilts with Your Backing Fabric - No Binding Strips Needed!

We want to show you a fabulous way of binding your quilts using just the backing fabric. It’s fast, easy, and still looks just as good as if you did it with binding strips. This is a wonderful way of simplifying your binding without sacrificing a professionally finished look!

We’re using this quilt block as an example of how to set up your own quilt to bind it with the backing fabric. This method will of course still work on a larger sized quilt, but we’ll just be demonstrating the technique on this block.

After your quilt has been quilted, you’ll have some leftover batting and backing fabric along the edges. If you plan on binding it with the backing fabric, you’ll need to leave an excess of about 2 or 3 inches of backing fabric.

Before you can begin binding, you’ll need to square up your quilt. Tuck your backing out of the way and trim the other layers with your rotary cutter. Be careful not to cut through any of your backing fabric. If you can’t get your backing out of the way enough that you won’t cut into it, you can also carefully trim your layers with a pair of scissors as long as you can get it all squared up evenly.

(Pinning the backing fabric out of the way)

(Trimming the batting to square up the quilt)

When your quilt is trimmed and squared up evenly, you can now trim your back fabric. You will need an inch of back fabric from the edge of your quilt, so take out your quilt ruler and trim it so that you have an even 1 inch of back fabric all the way around.

(Trimming the backing fabric to 1”/2.5cm

Fold your back fabric in half so that the edge of the fabric is just touching the edge of the quilt top. You don’t need it to overlap the quilt top, just have it lined up against the edge of it. Press with an iron to hold the fold in place.

Now you’re going to fold the binding over one more time. Take a glue stick and run it across your binding, then when you fold it down again it will help hold it in place. Press again with the iron to keep it stuck down snugly.

Now that you have your first folded edge, we’re going to fold the corner into a triangle making a 90 degree angle. Add another dab of glue and press it down with the iron to keep it in place.

Like before, fold the backing of the next edge down and press it in place with the iron. Take your glue stick and glue the entire edge including the folded triangle. Fold it over again and iron it down as you fold. The corner should have a perfectly mitered edge if your quilt is squared up correctly and the backing is folded evenly.

Continue these steps for the other two edges. When you come around to the last side, fold the corners on both ends of the backing into a 90 degree angle. Then fold and iron the binding down like before. Dab your glue across the entire fold including both corners and fold again, ironing it down as you go.

When you’ve finished, your quilt should have perfectly mitered corners and a binding that transitions evenly from back to front without an extra seam like you would with strip binding.

At this point you can choose to hand stitch your binding down like it’s traditionally done, or you can machine sew it which will go quicker. No matter which method you choose, we highly recommend using a finer thread in the top and bobbin. The thread we’ll be using is called DecoBob, which is an 80wt cottonized polyester thread. Because it’s so fine, it will really help to hide in the fabric so your stitches will be less visible. This is especially important if you choose to machine stitch your binding down. We recommend this thread because it’s strong enough to reliably hold your binding down without being too visible or worrying about the thread breaking.

To sew the binding down with your machine, you want to stitch as close as you can to the edge as you can. Because we tacked everything down with the glue earlier, the fabric is much less likely to shift as we sew. However, you can hold the edges down with some wonder clips if you need to. Sew all the way around your binding and don’t forget to back tack at the beginning and end.

There will be a gap at the mitered corners. These can be hand stitched close if you want to, or they can be left open if the quilt isn’t going to experience too much wear and tear. When you’re done, you have a beautifully bound quilt that smoothly transitions from back to front, and perfectly mitered corners. If you machine stitched it down with the 80wt DecoBob thread, you’ll also find that your stitches aren’t too visible either.

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Hemming Lightweight Fabrics With a Serger & Sewing Machine

We’ll show you the easiest way to make a rolled hem on chiffon fabric, or any other similar lightweight material. We’ll first demonstrate it on the serger, then with a domestic machine for those who don’t own a serger. Using the recommended materials and this technique, the result will be a beautiful rolled hem that looks just as professional as if it came from the store!

A lot of formalwear uses sheer, lightweight fabrics, and this method is a good way to keep the edge looking professional like it had never been modified. Apart from your machine, you’ll only need some small but important materials:

First, you’ll want to choose the right thread. We’ll be using a 100wt poly thread called InvisaFil, which is going to blend really well in the fabric so you don’t even see it. And because the thread is so fine, it will stitch more easily through the thin fabric, resulting in fewer ruffles. It’s important to use a very fine thread like this because apart from showing less, it also won’t weigh down the lightweight fabric either.

Because the thread is so fine, we’re also going to choose a needle with a smaller eye. Choose a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle which works best on light fabrics.

Finally, I’m going to use a bobbin that’s been pre-wound with DecoBob thread. This is an 80wt poly thread that comes already pre-wound on a plastic sided bobbin which will pair well with the top thread. You can alternatively wind your own bobbin with the InvisaFil thread, just remember wind it slowly since the thin thread tends to float away. If you’re going to hem your fabric on a serger, obviously you won’t use a bobbin so you’ll want DecoBob thread on a spool for your lower loopers.

On a Serger: 

We are going to use a 3 thread rolled hem, with InvisaFil in the needle and upper looper, and DecoBob in the lower looper. Consult with your serger manual and adjust the stitch length and cutting blade to get a close narrow hem.

Once your machine is threaded, do a test run on similar fabric to make sure your fabric is not puckering. You may have to adjust your differential settings to get a flat, smooth edge. 

Mark your hem with a disappearing marking pen, and serge exactly along your marked line. This is the simplest method for a quick fine hem on chiffon or similar fine fabric.

On a Domestic Sewing Machine With a Rolled Hem:

If you want to hem fine fabric on a domestic machine, this two step method will help you achieve perfect results. Mark where you want your finished hem and cut 1” below the marked line. We will trim this closer later. Be sure to spread the fabric out flat and even as these types of fabrics can easily shift during cutting. Thread your machine with InvisaFil on top and DecoBob in the bobbin. Now you’re ready to sew!

Using your fingers, tuck the edge of the fabric over 1/8” below the finished hem length and stitch very close to this folded edge. Do this all the way to the end of the fabric. If you’re hemming a sleeve or skirt, or anything where your piece is a loop, we recommend starting and ending on the seam to help hide the backstitching.

When you’re done, use a pair of sharp, fine tipped scissors to cut away the remaining fabric as close as you can to your line of stitching without snipping into the stitching itself. Exercise caution so you don’t accidentally snip over your seam. Do this all the way to the end.

Press all the way around to sink the stitches into the fabric and smooth any puckers.

Once you’ve finished trimming the excess fabric and pressing, tuck the edge 1/8” over one more time (along the finished hem marking) and stitch it down again over the original line of stitching to complete your rolled hem. If you have trouble tucking the edge over with your fingers and keeping the 1/8” length consistent, you can press the edge down with an iron before sewing.

That’s all there is to it! You can see how little the thread shows in the finished hem as well how flat the edge sits because the fine thread doesn’t add extra bulk. As most hems have a curved edge, doing the hem in two steps helps keep your hem even and consistent and eliminates any problems. These materials combined with these simple techniques are all you need for perfect, professional hemming.

(Left: done with serger. Right: done with domestic machine.)

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How to Sew Lightweight or Sheer Fabrics (Organza, Tulle, Chiffon)

Lightweight or sheer fabrics such as organza, tulle and chiffon can often be tricky to sew with as they are slippery and don’t have a lot of stability. We’ll cover our best tips for sewing with these tricky fabrics problem-free, while achieving perfect results!

Before you even begin sewing, you’ll have to cut the fabric pieces out first. Because these fabrics can be so slippery, it’s very difficult to get a straight edge, even if you’re very careful. Should you find this is the case, you can place a sheet of tissue paper or wax paper under the fabric and pin them together using thin appliqué pins. These pins are less likely to cause snags or puckers in the fabric. Then go ahead with cutting. Because the paper has more friction on it than a cutting mat does, the fabric won’t slide around as much. The paper also acts as a stabilizer which will still help even if you’re cutting it out with scissors.

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You should also consider the thread that you’ll be sewing with. Because these fabrics are so light and sheer, you can see right through it, meaning your stitches will also be visible. We strongly recommend sewing with a lightweight thread called DecoBob™. This is an 80wt cottonized polyester that’s very strong, so you can rely on it if you’re sewing gowns or any kind of structural sewing. Because it’s so fine, it will hide in the fabric a lot more in comparison to a regular weight thread.

Sewing with sheer fabrics using a regular 50wt thread.

Sewing with sheer fabrics using DecoBob™ 80wt thread.

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For rolled hems or darts, you can use this even finer thread called InvisaFil™. This is a 100wt thread that’s even smaller than DecoBob™ and won’t take up a lot of space in the fabric. This allows your stitches to stay flat and won’t be visible through the sheer fabric.

The needle you use will also make a huge difference in the quality of your stitches. Switch to a sharps needle as these have a thin, sharp point that will easily pierce through fine fabrics. If you are sewing with DecoBob™ or InvisaFi™l, an 80/12 or 70/10 microtex needle will work just fine.

Leave the tissue or wax paper on while you sew. The extra layer will help stabilize the fabric as you sew so that it doesn’t get sucked down into the machine. You should also decrease the stitch length on your machine to at least 1.8. Once you’re finished sewing a seam, you can easily tear away the paper.

Keep in mind when pressing these lightweight fabrics that many of them prefer a lower heat setting. So don’t have your iron on high heat when pressing your seams open.

We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with these lightweight fabrics! Let us know in the comment section what project you’ll be sewing, or share something you made using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.