Binding Quilts with Your Backing Fabric - No Binding Strips Needed!

We want to show you a fabulous way of binding your quilts using just the backing fabric. It’s fast, easy, and still looks just as good as if you did it with binding strips. This is a wonderful way of simplifying your binding without sacrificing a professionally finished look!

We’re using this quilt block as an example of how to set up your own quilt to bind it with the backing fabric. This method will of course still work on a larger sized quilt, but we’ll just be demonstrating the technique on this block.

After your quilt has been quilted, you’ll have some leftover batting and backing fabric along the edges. If you plan on binding it with the backing fabric, you’ll need to leave an excess of about 2 or 3 inches of backing fabric.

Before you can begin binding, you’ll need to square up your quilt. Tuck your backing out of the way and trim the other layers with your rotary cutter. Be careful not to cut through any of your backing fabric. If you can’t get your backing out of the way enough that you won’t cut into it, you can also carefully trim your layers with a pair of scissors as long as you can get it all squared up evenly.

(Pinning the backing fabric out of the way)

(Trimming the batting to square up the quilt)

When your quilt is trimmed and squared up evenly, you can now trim your back fabric. You will need an inch of back fabric from the edge of your quilt, so take out your quilt ruler and trim it so that you have an even 1 inch of back fabric all the way around.

(Trimming the backing fabric to 1”/2.5cm

Fold your back fabric in half so that the edge of the fabric is just touching the edge of the quilt top. You don’t need it to overlap the quilt top, just have it lined up against the edge of it. Press with an iron to hold the fold in place.

Now you’re going to fold the binding over one more time. Take a glue stick and run it across your binding, then when you fold it down again it will help hold it in place. Press again with the iron to keep it stuck down snugly.

Now that you have your first folded edge, we’re going to fold the corner into a triangle making a 90 degree angle. Add another dab of glue and press it down with the iron to keep it in place.

Like before, fold the backing of the next edge down and press it in place with the iron. Take your glue stick and glue the entire edge including the folded triangle. Fold it over again and iron it down as you fold. The corner should have a perfectly mitered edge if your quilt is squared up correctly and the backing is folded evenly.

Continue these steps for the other two edges. When you come around to the last side, fold the corners on both ends of the backing into a 90 degree angle. Then fold and iron the binding down like before. Dab your glue across the entire fold including both corners and fold again, ironing it down as you go.

When you’ve finished, your quilt should have perfectly mitered corners and a binding that transitions evenly from back to front without an extra seam like you would with strip binding.

At this point you can choose to hand stitch your binding down like it’s traditionally done, or you can machine sew it which will go quicker. No matter which method you choose, we highly recommend using a finer thread in the top and bobbin. The thread we’ll be using is called DecoBob, which is an 80wt cottonized polyester thread. Because it’s so fine, it will really help to hide in the fabric so your stitches will be less visible. This is especially important if you choose to machine stitch your binding down. We recommend this thread because it’s strong enough to reliably hold your binding down without being too visible or worrying about the thread breaking.

To sew the binding down with your machine, you want to stitch as close as you can to the edge as you can. Because we tacked everything down with the glue earlier, the fabric is much less likely to shift as we sew. However, you can hold the edges down with some wonder clips if you need to. Sew all the way around your binding and don’t forget to back tack at the beginning and end.

There will be a gap at the mitered corners. These can be hand stitched close if you want to, or they can be left open if the quilt isn’t going to experience too much wear and tear. When you’re done, you have a beautifully bound quilt that smoothly transitions from back to front, and perfectly mitered corners. If you machine stitched it down with the 80wt DecoBob thread, you’ll also find that your stitches aren’t too visible either.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Find a store in your area that carries WonderFil at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Introducing FabuLux 40wt Trilobal Polyester Thread

When you want to add something a little extra special to your quilting, FabuLux knows how to bring that shine and color you’ve been looking for. This dazzling 40wt thread is made from trilobal polyester. Most threads are round in shape, but a trilobal polyester thread is actually triangular in shape. This allows the thread to reflect more light off its surface, giving your stitching a soft shine and lustre. It’s one of the many things that makes FabuLux unique.

Not only will this thread stand out more as a result, but it also comes in 5 solid neon colors. Don’t be intimidated, neon actually looks stunning when it’s sewn out, and it’s perfect for making your quilting stand out whether you choose to use it on contrasting fabric, or pair it with like colors for a more subtle look.

FabuLux’s remaining 35 of the total 40 colors are all variegated, with some more subtle tone-on-tone options, and a few others that really want to scream for your attention. Variegated threads are perfect for matching all the colors in your quilt blocks, so you can easily quilt edge to edge without worrying about needing to frequently change your thread colors.

This gorgeous thread is perfect for sewing on longarms, midarms, and regular home sewing machines, and comes in two sizes at 766yds and 3000yd cones. But it isn’t just a favorite for quilting. You can use FabuLux for outlining designs, decorative sewing, and even in the embroidery machine.

One of our favorite things about this thread is that it’s basically lintless. FabuLux has a beautifully clean finish that won’t add a lot of lint build up in your machines. Afterall, there’s no point in spending thousands of dollars on a well-tuned sewing machine, only to gunk it up with lint. And because FabuLux is also extremely strong while also being incredibly soft to the touch, your bed quilts will never have felt, or looked, better.

If you’re inspired to sew with FabuLux, head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Getting Started With Crochet: Beginner Stitches

We’re here to teach you a few basic crochet stitches that will help introduce you to crochet! This is a fun, relaxing pastime that is easy to take with you on long road trips or on the go. Once you master these basic stitches, it’s easy to create a variety of different projects.

These basic stitches can be used to create the top for this cute little girl’s dress. We’ve included the FREE crochet pattern for this top which can be downloaded and printed by clicking here. This pattern uses each of the crochet stitches shown in the video below.

The dress was created using Eleganza #3, a high quality, long staple Egyptian cotton. For the beginner crocheter, you will appreciate the quality, as it is not prone to twisting and tangling. It is the heaviest weight of Eleganza, which also makes it great for beginners. We will also be using a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

To learn these stitches, check out the video below for detailed step-by-step instructions.

1. Chain Stitch (CH)

2. Single Crochet (SC)

3. Double Crochet (DC)

4. Double Crochet in One Spot

5. Double Crochet, Chain 3, Double Crochet in One Spot

6. Scallop Edges

7. Half Double Crochet (HDC)

8. Treble Stitch (TR)

9. Slip Stitch

Don’t forget, to learn how to these stitches, check out our video for details step-by-step instructions!

That’s all you need to know to create the dress pattern. It would be a good idea to practice some of these stitches before you begin to get used to the motion. One of the difficulties beginners will encounter is recognizing the skip stitch at the start of each row, so as not to unintentionally increase or decrease your stitch count in each row. So at first, practice doing a piece of either just single crochets or double crochet, to make sure you can keep your stitch count the same row to row and your piece straight and square. The stitches for the butterfly and flower addition to this top are a bit more complicated, so let us know if you would like to see another crochet tutorial for those.

Thanks for tuning in. Please send us pictures of your finished dresses; we would love to see them! Don’t forget to leave a comment in the comment section below and let us know what you would like to see next. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Best Practices to Store Your Sewing Thread

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from early fading and aging.

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. While thread doesn’t have a set expiry date, there are a few factors that can lead to faster aging. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from aging early, which can lead to weakened thread and faded colors.

If you love to show off all the pretty colors in your thread stash, you might mount them on your wall. There’s no better way to decorate your sewing room than with a wall full of gorgeous threads, and this makes it really easy to see all the colors you have to choose from all at once. However, if you’re storing your threads out in the open this way, it’s a good idea to take note of the sun exposure in the room. If you have a lot of sunlight shining on your threads for hours every day, the UV light can speed up the breakdown of the thread fibres, leading to weakened thread that breaks more easily after years of exposure.

This UV light can also cause the thread color to fade on the exposed surface, especially with red colors. These aren’t things that will happen overnight, but if you’re going through some of your threads more slowly, it can happen if you’re not paying attention over a few years. So, if you have some threads that you don’t use as often, it might be better to put them away in a closed container away from the sun.

Choose a home storage container with opaque drawers or boxes, something that the sun won’t penetrate. Keeping your threads put away in a closed container will also prevent dust from landing on the thread. While dust won’t impact the quality of the thread itself, it can come off while you’re sewing with it in the machine, adding to the lint build up inside.

Something to consider while your threads are stored in containers is the use of a Wonder Guard. This little sheet wraps around your spool of thread and stops it from unravelling. It’s perfect for organizing your thread and will prevent a lot of mess and tangles in your storage containers.

Another factor to consider is the climate you live in. If your home is somewhere very dry, you may wish to consider running a humidifier in your house. An excessively dry climate can also lead to the fibres of your thread drying out and weakening as a result. On the other hand, a very moist climate can also cause thread fibres to break down. You should choose to store your threads in a location in your home that isn’t too hot and dry, like near your furnace, but also away from direct water exposure.

We hope this helps you choose the best storage space for your threads so they can keep working long and hard for you! Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

7 Ways to Use Iron Fusible Thread

We’re going to show you a very useful tool for your sewing room: iron fusible thread. You can use this either in your bobbin or as a top thread, and it’s a great way to do everything from appliqué, lining up fabric patterns, or even making the perfect quilt binding. WonderFil’s Iron ‘n Fuse thread will actually melt and glue your fabric down when exposed to the heat of an iron. But it’s not permanent, you can still pull it up and move your pieces around, then re-fuse it in place if you don’t like the placement. There’s a lot of things you can use it for, so let’s check them out.

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1: Matching stripes, plaids, & patterns:

You don’t need a sewing machine for this one. Lay the thread on the right side of the fabric, along where you want the seam to be. Then take your second piece, line the pattern up to where you want it, and leave it right sides facing together. Give your fabric a quick press and the fusible thread will keep everything in place without pins!

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2: Applique:

Wind the Iron ‘n Fuse on an empty bobbin and use a regular sewing thread on top. Stitch around the appliqué shape, press, remove the top thread, and then trim closely. Use a decorative stitch on the raw edges of the fabric to finish appliquéing it down. The result is a natural looking appliqué without the stiffness of fusible interfacing; it also helps to reduce the puckering caused by using pins. If you happen to place your appliqué incorrectly, you can peel it up, move it and re-fuse it in place.

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3: Binding a quilt:

Place your folded binding on the wrong side of your quilt. Use a tight zig zag to attach it to the quilt, with fusible thread in your bobbin and regular thread in the top.  Now turn your binding to the right side and fuse over the seam. You can now stitch your binding down, stitching close to the edge of the binding. You will be sure to catch the underside of your binding.

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4: In the lower loopers of a serger: 

Serge around your hemline with fusible thread in the lower looper of your serger and regular thread in the needle and upper looper. Turn up hem and fuse, then turn your work to the right side and stitch for a simple turned up hem.

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5: Curved hem:

Run a row of long basting stitches along your curved hem edge, with a regular thread in the needle and the fusible thread in the bobbin. Gently pull up on your bobbin thread to ease in the shape of your curved hem, and then fuse your hem in place. This will make hand stitching your hem in place easier. You could also turn your work right side up to machine stitch your hem without worrying about the hem being distorted on the underside.

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6: Placing zippers:

Baste your zipper opening closed, then press the seam open. Run a row  of stitching along both seam allowances, with the fusible thread in the needle and the bobbin. Center your zipper under your seam, and press both sides to fuse down the seam allowances and at the same time fuse your zipper in place. You can now stitch around your zipper without worrying about it shifting. When your stitching is complete, remove the basting thread that holds the opening closed.

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7: Making pleats crisp:

Mark your pleat lines on your fabric (both inside pleats and outside pleats). Now stitch a scant 1/8” away from the marked lines, with regular thread in the top and fusible thread in the bobbin (the bobbin thread should be on the inside of the pleat). Using a press cloth, press along your marked lines. The fusible thread will help to make the pleats crisp.

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Let us know how you like to use iron fusible thread in the comments, or if this blog inspired you to try something new using iron fusible thread! You can also watch these tips in action in the video below.

Inspired to sew with Iron ‘n Fuse? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Metallic Embroidered Tie Tutorial (Free Embroidery Pattern Included!)

If you’re looking for that perfect gift for the father, husband, or friend in your life, this personalized embroidered tie will make a statement in any board room. We’ve even included 3 free digitized embroidery designs for you to download! All you need to do is choose your thread colours and add initials.

We have included 3 totally free digitized designs for you to download: a game controller, a fish and a bug. You can choose which you’d like to download and in what file type by clicking here. We are showing the finished product with a personalized monogram, but we leave these for you to add, so you can have the right initials.

We have chosen to use a purchased black tie as the backdrop for our embroidery. You can choose any color, but a solid color will show off the design better. To fit the included designs, the tie must be at least 2 inches wide at the point where you want your design to sit.

We have decided to stitch out the design in WonderFil’s metallic thread, Spotlite. Spotlite is a 40 wt metallic with a rayon core. Since rayon has no stretch, the core won’t stretch as a polyester or nylon core might. That stretching can cause the metallic wrap to separate, which causes the shredding and breaking that sometimes happens with metallic threads. Since the rayon core in Spotlite doesn’t stretch, that is less likely to happen, so you will have trouble free embroidery stitches, and a soft finish to the design.

We will be pairing the Spotlite with our 80wt DecoBob in the bobbin. Even very dense stitching stays soft when you have a fine bobbin thread and the evenly wound prewound bobbins will also ensure that you have no tension issues as you stitch out your design. As always, we will be using a Thread Tamer and a WonderGuard to tame the curl in the metallic thread, and a large eye 90/14 topstitch needle. As you will be using a sticky stabilizer to stabilize the tie, you can also use a universal super nonstick needle as another option. See our video on stitching trouble free with metallic thread without the headache to learn our tricks on sewing with metallic thread.

To begin, we will hoop this sticky stabilizer, paper side up, in the hoop. We are going to lightly score the paper around the edge of the hoop with a pin, and from corner to corner, so we can easily pull the paper away. Mark the center so you can easily place your tie on the right spot.

Decide where you want the center of your design to sit on the tie and mark the spot with some tailor’s chalk. With a stitch ripper, open up the back of the tie for at least 6”, so your tie can sit flat and open on the stabilizer. Using your hoop grid, place the tie centered on the hoop and smooth and press it in place so it sits flat and even.

Download the digitized design you prefer, in the format appropriate for your embroidery machine. If you choose, add the text or monogram from your machine’s text to the design before proceeding. Thread your machine with Spotlite in the first color, with a Decobob prewound bobbin in the bottom. Stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated. We have included the color numbers of Spotlite we used for our designs.

When your stitchout is complete, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and trim away on the underside of the tie. Trim all the threads, then using a hand needle and DecoBob, hand stitch the back of the tie closed again.

And there you have it. The man in your life will be proud to wear this fun, customized tie, and it is sure to be a conversation starter!

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

The Easiest Way to Hem a Pair of Jeans

Rather than rolling up your jeans or taking them to an expensive tailor, why not hem them yourself? This is one of those life skills that’s easy enough for anyone with a sewing machine to do themselves. Wearing jeans that are too long can wear away the denim around the heel in an ugly way. We’re here to show you our tried and true method of hemming jeans easily and quickly for a perfect fit. We’ll also show you our recommendation for notions that will give you the best look and results.

To begin, you’ll want to grab a piece of tailor’s chalk, preferably in white or another contrasting colour from your denim. Put on the pair of jeans that are too long and turn up the fabric under the wrong side of the pants until it’s at the desired length. We recommend doing this step while wearing shoes to ensure you take this extra height into consideration. It may help to have someone do this for you so you’re standing straight. Make a mark at the base of the fabric at the desired length using the tailor’s chalk.

Now measure the distance from the mark to the bottom of the original hem. You’ll want to mark the other leg at the same distance so they are the same length. Lay one of the legs flat and place a ruler straight against the line. Extend the line all the way down the fabric.

Holding the ruler in place against the line, you can flip over the pant leg over the ruler and continue drawing the line to the other side of the leg, being careful to keep it straight. You should now have a straight line running on both sides of the pant leg.

Do the same with the other pant leg. Now that both legs have been marked, you’ll want to mark your fold lines next. On the side of the line closer to the bottom of the pant leg, measure another half inch and make a new mark.

Now measure another half inch from your new mark, and make a third mark. You’ll want to once again extend these lines straight all the way around the pant leg on both legs. You should now have 3 solid straight lines travelling around both your pant legs.

Using a pair of sharp fabric scissors, cut off the pants closely following the bottom line, the one closest to the bottom of the pant leg. Do this for both pant legs. You can now begin sewing your new hem!

Most denim jeans will have a thick gold coloured thread, so it’s best to choose a thread that matches it to look consistent with the rest of the pants. We’ll be using this 12wt cotton thread called Spagetti in the bobbin. It’s a heavier than your usual 40 or 50wt thread, and closely resembles the decorative contrasting brown or golden thread used on jeans. The two Spagetti colours that tend to match most with this jean thread is SP11 or SP21. For this pair of jeans, I’ll be using colour SP21.

Because we’re using a thicker thread underneath, we want to use a finer thread in the needle. This will ensure the thread doesn’t struggle through the fabric, and it will give you a better stitch consistency and quality. But you don’t want just any finer thread up top, you want to make sure it is strong enough to hold your denim fabric together for a good long time.

We’ll be using DecoBob 80wt thread in the needle. This is a strong but lightweight polyester thread that is ideal to pair with Spagetti in the bobbin. We used a regular 80/12 size needle, however if you find your machine is struggling with the thicker denim fabric, you can also use a denim needle.

Don’t forget to increase your machine’s stitch length to 3.1. This will help with the machine’s tension when using the thicker 12wt thread, and also match the stitch length showing on the jeans.

Once the machine is set up, you can begin sewing. Roll up the hem following the remaining two lines so that the raw edge is tucked away. If you feel confident with keeping it straight you can begin sewing right away. However, we recommend beginners clip their hems in place to prevent it from moving using sewing clips. We prefer sewing clips instead of using pins because the thick denim can be difficult to penetrate with pins, and it doesn’t cause any puckering.

You’ll want to sew on the inside of the pant leg so you can follow the edge of the new hem. This way, your heavy 12wt thread in the bobbin will show on the right side of the pant leg.

We recommend starting on the bump of one of the side seams to hide your backstitching. Because of the thickness of the fabric in this area, you may need to gently turn the handle on the side of your sewing machine to manually sew the first few stitches. Sew close to the edge of the hem, being careful to keep your stitching straight and consistent. When you return to your start point, sew over the original stitching and don’t forget to backstitch again.

Trim your threads and you’re finished! You’ll have a new perfectly fitting pair of jeans that you hemmed yourself.

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

4 Popular Thread Myths You Should Ignore

There’s a lot of sewing myths out there, and a lot of the time they were made because of a lack of thread technology advancement or there simply weren’t any other choices available. We’re going to debunk these 4 popular thread myths that are simply no longer true.

Thread Myth #1: Always Use the Same Thread Top & Bottom

One of the most common thread myths we hear is that you must always use the same thread on the top and in the bobbin. This is simply not true, and here’s why. As your machine sews, the top and bottom threads are pulling against each other for tension. By choosing a finer bobbin thread such as this 80wt cottonized polyester called DecoBob, the bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread. This allows for a smoother tension and fewer thread breakages.

If you’re using a 50 or 40 weight thread to sew, which is the most common medium weight thread, the thread adds more extra bulk to the seams than most people realize. This 80wt bobbin thread is almost half the size of 50wt thread in comparison, and as a result will allow the stitches to lay flatter and the bobbin thread will show less.

This is most especially noticeable in embroidery where you have a lot of dense stitching all in an area. In this embroidery, the top section used a 50wt white bobbin thread. Below it, we switched to a white 80wt pre-wound bobbin. You can literally see the difference it makes simply by choosing to use a finer thread in the bobbin.

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Thread Myth #2: Embroidery Thread is Always 40wt Polyester

While we’re on the topic of embroidery, another thread myth we frequently hear is that an embroidery thread should always be a 40wt polyester. Don’t get us wrong, we love 40wt polyester for embroidery and it’s a great choice, but you can also achieve better results by changing up your thread depending on what kind of embroidery project you’re doing.

For instance, we stitched out several sizes of this embroidery pattern going from larger to smaller. The embroidery at the larger size looks great, however as you get smaller and smaller, you start to lose the detail and the lines become squished together. Any embroidery with many fine details benefits from using a finer thread. Here we used DecoBob 80wt thread in the top and bobbin and you can see how many details are kept at a smaller size.

For another comparison, we stitched out some lace using a 50wt cotton. We then stitched out the same lace pattern using DecoBob 80wt thread and you can see how many more details show up in the lace with the finer thread. So if you’re doing any embroidery with a lot of little details, always choose a fine thread to make it with. The results are worth it.

However, polyester isn’t your only choice for embroidery thread, what about rayon? Rayon and polyester have some differences, namely that rayon has a more beautiful, glossy sheen in comparison to polyester which carries more of a fragmented, artificial sheen. Rayon is also softer and more flexible to the touch, while polyester is stiffer and rougher to the touch. However, polyester is also able to withstand mild bleaching and is resistant to most chemicals while rayon is not. Rayon also tends to weaken when exposed to water and should therefore just be used for decorative elements and not construction purposes.

These are both good choices for embroidery but knowing the properties of each material will help you make a more informed choice when choosing the best one for your project. Don’t forget that cotton thread is also a beautiful embroidery choice as it offers an organic, matte look. And metallic thread which is also a stunning choice for anything you want to pop.

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Thread Myth #3: Metallic Threads Are Fickle and Always Break Too Easily

Metallic threads have a reputation for being fragile and difficult to sew with. However, it’s best to keep in mind that 1) not all metallic threads are made with the same quality, and 2) thread technology has advanced from the last few decades and many of the previous problems have now been addressed. This is Spotlite, a metallic thread made by WonderFil threads. Something that makes it unique is that it uses rayon for its core, meaning the metallic foil is wrapped around a core thread made of rayon.

Many companies opt for polyester as the core due to its strength, however we chose a rayon core because rayon has zero stretch to it. As polyester tends to carry more stretch to it, as the thread goes through all the bends in the machine, the thread can stretch around those corners, causing it to break. As rayon carries no stretch at all, this causes significantly fewer thread breaks and allows for a smooth sewing experience. It also means that stretching doesn’t pull the metallic foil away from the core, which would change the texture and reveal a different colour in the stitching.

We always recommend using a DecoBob 80wt pre-wound bobbin in the bottom with any metallic thread. As mentioned before, this will allow the bobbin to always give way to the top tension, resulting in fewer thread breaks and tension problems. Check out our video on sewing with metallic threads (without the headache) for a deeper look at sewing with metallic threads!

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Thread Myth #4: Polyester Thread Cuts the Fabric So You Should Only Quilt with Cotton

This is one of the most common thread myths we hear because decades ago there was some truth to it. Since then, thread technology has made leaps and bounds in advancement, and polyester threads have become one of the easiest and best choices to sew with. Not only does the polyester thread not damage the fabric it is sewn into, it actually lasts longer and is more resilient than cotton over the years. It also carries next to no lint, meaning you’ll need to clean out your machine less frequently.

Let us know in the comment section if you learned something from this video or if you have your own thread myth to debunk. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

9 Ways to Sew With Fine 80-100wt Threads

You may have seen these ultra-fine 80 and 100wt threads on store shelves, but what would you want to use such a thin thread for? As it turns out, these thin threads not only have a ton of great uses, they can also perform better for certain techniques than a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread would. We’ll show you when to use these threads and why you should choose them.

Let’s take a quick look at these two 80 and 100wt threads by WonderFil. This 80wt thread is called DecoBob, and the 100wt thread is called InvisaFil. They are both made from cottonized polyester, which is a 100% polyester thread that has been treated to take the stretch and shine out of it, giving the thread a matte finish that hides in the fabric. Because they’re made from polyester, you’ll find they’re actually quite strong despite their size. So, how can you use them?

1.Piecing

This is one of the most common techniques that comes up for sewers, but have you ever considered what thread to use when doing it? As it turns out, the choice of thread will make a huge difference. We always recommend using an 80wt thread in the top and bottom for piecing, such as DecoBob, because the thread won’t add any additional bulk in the seams. This allows the pieced fabric to sit flatter and it makes it easier to match up your patterns. The difference is actually visible.

This thread is especially good with foundation paper piecing. We recommend lowering the stitch length to around 1.8 for added security. This also makes it easier to tear the paper out without pulling out your stitching by accident.

2.Quilting

Both 80wt DecoBob and 100wt InvisaFil are a great choice for quilting when you don’t want the thread to show. We used a light grey InvisaFil to quilt this multi-colored quilt, and as you can see, the fine thread blends into every colour. You only need to choose a basic or slightly match the color to the fabric for it to blend in, making it easy to show the texture of your quilting without showing the thread itself.

InvisaFil is especially fantastic for micro quilting or any dense quilting. Because the thread is so fine, it doesn’t add a lot of bulk to the fabric. This means you can stitch densely, and your quilt will still stay soft and flexible.

3. Machine embroidery

Most embroidery threads are a medium 40wt. However, delicate, highly detailed designs, monogramming, and small embroideries will look even better when used with InvisaFil™ thread. This ultra-thin thread makes it possible to keep all the details in small or highly detailed designs that a regular 40wt embroidery thread won’t be able to. This includes lettering as the fine thread will keep edges looking sharp and crisp.

4.Bobbin thread

We always recommend using a finer thread weight in the bobbin with any thread on top. Choosing an 80wt thread like DecoBob will greatly improve your tension and stitch quality as this finer thread won’t fight for tension in the machine with the top thread. This is especially important when you’re using a thicker thread in the top, such as a 12wt, as you really don’t want to be putting that much bulk in your seams and through the fabric. An 80wt thread like DecoBob will allow your stitching to sit flatter while staying strong enough to be used for any sewing technique.

DecoBob pre-wound bobbins in size Class 15

5.Stitch in the ditch

Many sewers will reach for a monopoly thread to sew invisible stitches, you know, those threads that are translucent and often come in clear or smoke. However these threads can still be seen under bright lights and are stiff and inflexible when sewn with. This is why we recommend using InvisaFil 100wt thread instead. You only need to choose a basic color like grey, or one that slightly matches the color of the fabric for it to blend right in. So even if you sew out of your ditch, this forgiving thread won’t show up anyway.

6.English paper piecing

This hand technique relies on stitching pieces of fabric wrapped around paper pieces together. Because these pieces sit tightly against each other, a finer thread will make a big difference as to how tightly the pieces lay against one another, and also how much the thread will show up. This is why we recommend using 100wt InvisaFil as opposed to a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread. If you’re someone who tends to tug on their thread when you sew and frequently run into thread breaks when doing EPP, then you can use DecoBob 80wt thread instead. We also recommend DecoBob for those who have arthritis in their hands and struggle more with using the finer 100wt InvisaFil.

7.Hand and machine appliqué

If you’re doing decorative appliqué and don’t want the stitches to be seen, InvisaFil has your back. When doing needle turn appliqué, your appliqué pieces will sit a lot flatter against the background, and the 100wt thread is a master at disappearing. You can even appliqué your pieces by machine using a tiny zigzag stitch. Because InvisaFil is so small, you only need to match the colors to the fabric just slightly and they still won’t be seen. How impressive is that?

8.Buttonholes

Whether you’re making your buttonholes by hand or machine, these finer threads are a great choice. Should you be sewing your buttonholes by hand, use InvisaFil 100wt thread to stitch together the raw edges of your buttonholes, before going over them with a thicker decorative thread on top. The finer thread will disappear into the fabric so you won’t see it holding the edges together. If you’re doing your buttonholes by machine, then you can choose DecoBob 80wt thread to create nice tight stitches without the thread clumping up.

9.Sewing & serging sheer or lightweight fabrics

Chiffon, organza, and tulle are some of many lightweight and sheer fabrics you may come across. These fabrics can be difficult to work with, but using a fine 80 or 100wt thread allows the fabric to not be weighed down by the stitching, nor will the stitches show up in sheer fabrics. Whether you’re serging hems, doing construction sewing, or any kind of general sewing with these fabrics, always choose DecoBob or InvisaFil to do it with.

We hope this list gives you some insight into where you can use these threads in your projects, and why we recommend them! Inspired to sew with InvisaFil and DecoBob? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Sewing the BEST Stitch in the Ditch Tutorial

Stitch in the ditch is a technique where you sew directly in the fold of a seam to hide your stitching, while securing your quilt block down. This way you don’t see any quilting around that area of the block. If you’re looking to sew stitch in the ditch on your latest quilt or project, we have the best tips on making it look invisible and perfect. Let’s take a closer look!

The first and most important thing to do before you even begin is choosing the right thread. We recommend using InvisaFil, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread that is incredibly fine and hides in the fabric wherever it’s stitched. A basic colour such as grey, or a color that even slightly matches the fabric will be enough for it to hide almost completely. This will ensure your stitching shows as absolutely little as possible, even if you accidentally sew outside the seam.

Because this thread is finer, you can choose a 70/10 or 80/12 size needle. This smaller needle will punch a smaller hole in the fabric so that the fine thread won’t be sitting in too large of a hole.

You can use the same thread in the bobbin, or alternatively a similar thread called DecoBob. DecoBob is also a cottonized polyester thread, but it’s marginally thicker at 80wt. This gives your stitching a slightly stronger hold and it also is available as convenient pre-wound bobbins. These pre-wounds will give you a better stitch consistency and even tension.

Choose a machine foot that is marks the center needle position. This makes it easier to line up the seam you’ll be stitching into.

Start from one end of the seam and carefully sew all the way to the end. Don’t forget to back stitch at the beginning and end.

Don’t worry if you fall off your path a little, if you’re using the correct thread then it won’t even be visible.

That’s actually all there is to it! Simply choosing the right tools for the job is the best way to get perfect results, even if it’s your first time trying this technique.

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Spotlite™ 40wt Rayon Core Metallic Thread

Metallic threads are a gorgeous choice for any decorative stitching, machine embroidery, or decorative quilting. They shine in a way no other thread can. But many people struggle to use metallic threads because they can be a little more fickle to sew with than others. Let’s take a closer look at WonderFil’s 40wt metallic thread called Spotlite and what makes this special thread stand out.

Metallic threads are designed with a thin metallic foil wrapped around a core made of another material. Many thread manufacturers will use polyester for the core because polyester is a strong, durable material. However, polyester also tends to carry a stretch to it. As the thread passes through the thread path in the machine and around all those bends, it can stretch around those bends, causing thread breaks. Stronger doesn’t always equal better in this case.

This is why WonderFil takes a different approach and uses rayon for the metallic thread’s core. Rayon carries zero stretch to it, meaning it won’t stretch around the bends in a machine’s thread path. This leads to fewer thread breaks and shredding, as well as a higher stitch quality.

We always recommend choosing a quality metallic thread as not all metallic threads are made equally. The quality of the thread you use will directly impact how easy it is to sew with, which is especially noticeable when using a metallic thread.

So, what can you use metallic threads for? The possibilities are truly endless. Because of metallic’s beautiful sheen, you can achieve a look and texture not possible with any other kind of thread. Even a single stitch of metallic can add a pop of sparkle to your quilts. Should you choose to quilt with metallic thread, we recommend using it only for art quilts, wall hung quilts, or small areas of decorative stitching on bed quilts, as metallic thread doesn’t have the same strength as regular quilting threads.

Quilting with Spotlite™ 40wt rayon core metallic.

Denser stitching such as thread painting will really show off the iridescent beauty of Spotlite thread. Artist Teri Cherne stitched layers of Spotlite to create this stunning thread painted piece. You can also use it in the embroidery machine for a beautiful metallic look to your embroidery designs. This thread is an exceptional choice for freestanding lace patterns, and you can easily and quickly make freestanding lace ornaments for the holidays.

For best results, always pair Spotlite thread with a super fine bobbin thread like DecoBob 80wt cottonized polyester. This fine thread plays nice with any top thread, which makes a big difference in the stitch quality of a metallic thread. It will also further reduce thread breaks and shredding, and prevent tension changes.

You should also ensure you’re using the right needle for this thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle, or a 90/14 metallic needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye, giving the metallic thread more space to move around and preventing the thread from shredding. Metallic needles are designed to shield the thread as it passes through the fabric, which also prevents shredding. Both needles are a good choice when using this thread. You can also use Spotlite on the longarm machine with a size 16 needle.

While metallic threads aren’t usually recommended for hand sewing, you can get away with it if you cut shorter strands. Choose a sharps needle with an eye large enough to fit the thread and only cut strands no longer than 18 inches long, or you may end up with tangling issues.

You can choose from a range of 40 different colours with Spotlite. Or pick up a Spotlite tube which includes 4 coordinated colours, as well as a free sheet of Wonder Guard.

If you haven’t used a Wonder Guard before, this handy little thread guard is a must for metallic threads. Simply wrap it around the spool, snugly but not too tightly, and you can actually sew with it on.

If you’ve used metallic threads before, you’ll notice they tend to have a curl to them, or a memory. This is the thread holding the shape of the spool it was wrapped around. A Wonder Guard will help pull those curls off the thread as the thread draws off the spool, preventing those curls from entering the machine and messing up your tension. They’re also perfect for storing the thread when you’re not using it!

For our guide on how to sew with metallic threads easily, don’t forget to check out our video, “How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)”.

Inspired to sew with Spotlite? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

5 Clever Sewing Tips You May Not Have Thought Of!

We have 5 of our favourite sewing tips, perfect for any sewist. These clever tips can help run your sewing room more efficiently and improve your projects!

1. This seam remover from Kai Scissors can be your new best friend! When you have to rip out your seams, carefully use this tool to cut speedily through the stitches. It will save you so much time!

2. When you are cutting small pieces out of a pattern, instead of using pins, try using Wonder clips to hold together the pattern pieces to the fabric. This way not only it will hold together the pieces firmly, but you will also have something to grab on to while cutting such delicate pieces.

3. Have you ever used cork or leather for a project and experienced big holes whenever you tried to pin them together? Plus those heavy weight materials always make it difficult for pins to go through, too! In this case, try using Wonder clips instead of pins. They can hold your material together without leaving any holes in your project!

4. How do you store your cutting mats? A good way to store them flat is to hang them using binder clips. This way, the cutting mat doesn’t take up too much space and also can prevent it from getting warped when it leans against the floor and a wall.

5. Do you ever find it hard to organize all your hand needles in the correct sizes and sometimes forget which one is the one you were looking for? Take an old pin cushion and mark each section with the needle sizes that you use. When you pull one out to put in your machine, mark the spot with a decorative pin!

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Double Fold Machine Bind a Quilt

We’re going to show you how to make a double fold quilt binding on a sewing machine. If you’re like us, we’re always eager to get our quilt finished at this point, so this is our favourite way to get this final step done quickly while making sure it still looks perfect.

Apart from the quilt itself, you’ll need a few basic things. We’re going to use this 80wt thread called DecoBob to stitch the binding. It’s a very fine thread with a matte finish, so it will hide in the fabric and make the stitching less obvious. It’s also a very strong thread despite its size, so this is a great option for piecing and stitching anything down securely.

You’ll also need a cutting mat with a rotary cutter and quilting ruler to cut your binding accurately. An iron is needed to give your binding strips a quick press. We’ll also need a disappearing marking pen or a piece of fabric chalk.

Most importantly, you’ll need the fabric you want to bind your quilt with. We’ll show you how to cut and sew it together. Most patterns will tell you how much fabric you need for a binding, however if you’re doing your own quilt, you’ll have to do some math to figure out how much you need. There is an excellent binding calculator provided by Quilter’s Paradise. Alternatively, you can use the following formula to calculate how much you’ll need.

Take the width of your quilt multiplied by two and add it with the length of your quilt multiplied by two to get the circumference of your quilt. Then add another ten inches to be on the safe side so you don’t run out of binding. Take this number and divide it by the width of your fabric to find out the number of strips you need to cut to complete your binding.

So for example, we might have a 20 inch by 30 inch quilt. The width of our binding fabric is 43 inches, and we want the binding to be 2 and a half inches wide.

20 inches times two, plus 30 inches times two, plus an extra 10 inches to be safe, equals 110 inches. We’ll take the 110 inches and divide that by the width of fabric, which is 43 inches, to get 2.6 strips of binding required. We can round this up to 3 strips to make it easier.

Knowing this, we want to cut 3 strips along my width of fabric that are 2 and a half inches wide each to have enough binding for the quilt.

Now that we know how much fabric we need, we’ve gone and cut the strips to the measurements required. Next we need to sew these strips together into one long binding. To do that, we need to trim both ends of the strip to a 45 degree angle, which can be measured on the quilting ruler. Make sure they’re both trimmed facing the same direction.

Take the ends of two different strips and place them right sides together, diagonal ends matched up, and pin them together. However, if you line up the corners perfectly and are using a quarter in seam allowance, you will notice that the pieces will end up a quarter inch off.

So you will need to offset the pieces by a quarter inch when you pin them together so that after it’s sewn, your pieces will line up perfectly.

Because the thread we’re using is so fine, we’ll set the stitch length to 1.80. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the pieces together.

Do this for the rest of your strips until all the pieces are sewn into one long strip.

You can leave the end of the last strip squared off.

Turn the binding strips wrong sides together and press to crease it together, creating the double fold binding. However if you feel confident and don’t want to spend time pre-creasing your binding, you can fold it by hand as you sew along.

Now we’re going to open the binding up on one end and fold it over into a diagonal line so the touching edges are straight. Press the fold to create a crease. We’re now ready to start sewing it on!

We’re going to start by stitching down the end that has the diagonally folded edge. Lay the binding out completely open on the back side of the quilt, starting with the end you made the diagonal fold. We prefer to position it around the middle of the quilt on one of the long sides.

Match the edge of the binding with the edge of the quilt. Stitch it on a ¼” seam allowance using your walking foot and sew to a little bit after the raw edge of the fabric.

Snip your threads and take your quilt out of the machine. Now we’re going to fold over the binding back in half. Move your quilt about three to four inches down from where your stitching ended and start stitching your double fold binding down also with a ¼” seam allowance. That gap will create a nice pocket to tuck the tail into when you come back around.

At the corner of the quilt, we’re going to place a pin right where the quilt ends so we know where it is. Exactly ¼ of an inch away from the pin, we’re going to stop sewing. Back stitch to make sure your stitching doesn’t come out and take the quilt out of the machine.

Finger press the binding into a right angle. Then fold it back down over itself to form a tidy corner like so. Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of the quilt. We’ll use a pin to keep it from shifting.

Put the quilt back in the machine and continue sewing at a ¼” seam allowance down the next edge. Continue doing this for the rest of the quilt.

Now we’ve come back around to where we first started. We can now join the strips together. Since we have a lot of extra binding, we’ll need to trim some off, making sure that there’s still enough to completely fit inside the pocket we made, otherwise there will be a hole in the binding.

Tuck the trimmed end into the open pocket we made earlier with the diagonal piece folded around on top. Holding it place with your fingers, continue sewing down until you reach the starting stitches. Trim your threads and now you can see the binding is completely stitched to the back side of the quilt.

We can now focus on sewing the binding to the front of the quilt. Fold the binding around to the front and use the quilting clips to hold them in place.

Just like on the other side, sew down with a ¼” seam allowance. You can start closer to the corner this time to hide your backstitch.

When you reach a corner, fold the next edge over to make a crisp diagonal mitered line and sew over it. Keep the needle down and pivot the quilt to the next edge, keeping in mind to stay at a ¼” seam allowance.

Continue sewing all around the quilt until you finish stitching it all down. There will be a small gap left where you started and ended your binding. If you wish, you can hand sew this down, however it’s up to you as we find that it doesn’t cause a problem to leave it like this.

And there we have it! One beautifully bound quilt.

We hope this tutorial made it easier for you to bind your next quilt! Let us know in the comments if you learned something new.

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué Using Iron Fusible Thread (FREE Pattern Included!)

Raw edge appliqué is a simple, fast, and easy way to appliqué your pieces together because it doesn’t require any extra steps. The most common way to sew raw edge appliqué is to use fusible stabilizer, however this can leave your appliqué looking and feeling stiff. In this video, we’ll show you how to sew raw edge appliqué using iron fusible thread, as well as some tips and tools to make it easier. Included is a free pattern to practice with or turn into your own unique project!

Trace your appliqué shapes onto the fabric using a temporary pen or piece of chalk and cut them out. We always recommend using batik fabric for raw edge appliqué because the fabric is less prone to fraying. If your shapes are more complex, or have a lot of angles in them, we suggest using a smaller, sharp pair of scissors to do your cutting with as it makes it much easier to do.

We’re going to load the machine with two different threads. In the top is a temporary regular sewing thread that will be pulled out later. However, in the bobbin we’ll be winding this thread called Iron ‘n Fuse. This is an iron fusible thread that will fuse the appliqué pieces to the fabric.

If you have appliqué pieces that have smaller shapes, you can add an optional layer of water soluble stabilizer underneath to make it easier to sew on the machine. You don’t need to cut it out to match the shape of your appliqué perfectly, just cut out a rough shape that your appliqué will easily fit over.

Increase your machine’s stitch length slightly to make it easier to pull the top thread out later. Sew all the way around your appliqué piece.

Position your appliqué on your project and press with high heat. The best part about using Iron ‘n Fuse thread is that it can still be lifted and repositioned as needed. It won’t fuse permanently to your project. Once your appliqué is in place, you can pull out the top thread.

To stitch your appliqué down permanently, you can use any variety of threads depending on the look you wish to achieve. The choice is yours, however for my appliqué I’ll be using this 50wt variegated cotton called Tutti. I love this thread because it’s been double gassed so it has a clean, ultra low lint finish, and the colour changes on the thread are quicker.

Sew around your appliqué about 1/8th of an inch away from the edge. If you want to make a bolder outline on your appliqué, you can go around again a second time. Raw edge appliqué tends to have a scrappy look, so don’t worry about making your lines perfectly aligned with each other.

Alternatively, you can hide the raw edge of the appliqué by selecting a satin stitch on your machine and sewing over the edge to cover it. We chose to stitch a bold outline around the appliqué pieces using this thicker 12wt thread called Spagetti. Like Tutti, it’s also a low lint cotton, but this thicker thread is a great way to add emphasis or an outline to a motif in your project.

After you’re finished permanently stitching your pieces down, don’t forget to wash your project to remove the water soluble stabilizer, if you chose to use it. No matter which creative way you choose to finish your raw edge appliqué project, this method is a fool-proof way to reduce the stiffness of an iron-on stabilizer often used in this technique.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

7 Ways to Use a Sashiko Machine

Sashiko is a hand technique originating from Japan that uses a simple running stitch, however this machine replicates the look of a running stitch done by hand. This amazing machine can do all sorts of things with this one simple stitch, however they can be a little pricey to buy. We’ve compiled 8 techniques you can easily do yourself on the sashiko machine so you know how to use every advantage it brings.

The sashiko machine ensures stitches are uniform and consistent, making it easier and faster to accomplish your project. It only has one kind of stitch and threads differently from a regular sewing machine because it only uses the bobbin thread and no top thread.

Traditionally sashiko is done with white cotton thread on indigo dyed fabric, however you can choose any colour of thread and fabric you want. With a sashiko machine, you can even do more than just decorative stitching!

You’ll want to choose a medium weight thread as the sashiko machine will double up the stitches. So if you have too heavy a thread, you’ll end up with shredding and stitch consistency problems. I’ll be demoing with two threads. The first is a 35wt thread called Silco. This is a synthetic cotton thread that’s completely lint free. The second is Konfetti, a 50wt Egyptian cotton thread.

1. Quilting:
If you love the look of hand quilting but don’t have the time or patience to quilt an entire quilt by hand, you can do it with the sashiko machine instead. This is also a great solution for anyone with arthritis in their hands. The sashiko machine gives you the look of hand quilting, but at ten times the speed!

2. Appliqué:
You can use the sashiko machine for raw edge appliqué. This is a simple but beautiful way to appliqué your pieces down with a simple running stitch and combines the traditional look of sashiko with your appliqué project.

3. Adding trims:
The sashiko machine is perfect for quickly adding trims to clothing or home décor items, with the advantage of giving it the hand stitched look. I like to add it to sleeve cuffs, collars, bags, or pillows.

4.Couching:
It’s really easy to do couching without the need for a couching foot like a regular sewing machine requires, however it will look a little different. Place the ribbon or yarn you want to couch down horizontally across the needle and take one or two stitches, then pull it over to the other side of the needle and take another stitch or two. Continue this process to finish couching it down!

5. Braiding:
Another method of couching with the sashiko machine that creates a different look is by braiding two threads back and forth in front of the needle. Take your yarn or ribbon and place the center of it in front of the needle so you’re holding both of the ends in your fingers. Take one or two stitches to secure it, then weave both ends opposite across the front of the needle and take another one or two stitches. Continue doing this and you’ll end up with a woven couched thread.

6. Fabric flower:
Using organza or another similar lightweight fabric, you can create a flower by scrunching up the fabric and stitching over it so that the edges flare up. Take a piece of fabric, about 5 inches wide and 25 inches long, depending on how large you want the flower to be. Position it along the centre of the fabric and push it up against the needle before taking a few stitches. Continue doing this while slowly turning the fabric clockwise. You’ll end up with a beautiful fabric flower that’s perfect for decorating a birthday party, or upcoming baby or wedding shower!

7. Pleats:
You can easily add a decorative pleat on a piece of clothing or home décor item using the sashiko machine. Position your fabric where you want the pleat to fall from and push the fabric up against the needle. Take a few stitches to secure it and continue to press and stitch as you sew straight down. The result is a beautiful gathered pleat.

There’s so many creative ways to use the sashiko machine, so please tell us what you’ve made in the comments below! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Choose the Right Machine Needle

Due to the variety of fabrics and threads available on the market, needle manufacturers have quite a selection to choose from. Every needle has its own purpose, but how do you know which is the best one to use for your project? We’ll walk you through the different categories of needles, the anatomy of a needle, and when to choose a certain type of needle. We’ll be focusing on domestic sewing machine needles as these are the most widely used.

Part 1: The Anatomy of a Needle

Every needle is made up of roughly the same parts. On the front of the needle, you’ll see the point of the needle that pierces the fabric. Above that is the eye which the top thread runs through, and the groove which runs all along the shaft of the needle. This groove allows the thread to be nestled inside, protecting it as the needle runs through the material and keeping it out of the way so it can glide through the material without protruding, thus creating smooth and even stitches.

Above the shaft is the shank which is the part of the needle that is held by the machine. The shaft of most domestic sewing machine needles usually have a rounded front face and a flat back side to make it easy for insertion. At the top of the shaft is the butt which is the part that is inserted into the machine. The shoulder is the section between the shank and shaft. This is where most needle brands will add a strip of colour indicating the type of needle it is.

On the back side of the needle you will find the scarf, an indentation that makes it easier for the bobbin thread to grab the top thread and create a stitch. The length of the scarf will vary depending on the type of needle.

Part 2: Needle Sizing System

There are two ways to measure needle size, the American and European systems. Both are usually indicated on the packaging of the needle. American sizes usually range from 8 to 19, while European sizes range from 60 to 120. For example, the sizing on this Schmetz needle case indicates the European size on the left and the American size on the right. So a 90/14 needle means it’s a 90 in the European size and 14 in the American size. The larger the number, the larger the needle.

You will want to pair a smaller size needle with a finer thread and a larger needle with a larger thread. Using too large of a needle will cause the thread to sit in a hole too large for it, which can look ugly. And a needle that’s too small for the thread will cause excess friction from the thread pulling through too small of a hole in the fabric and won’t fit well in the eye of the needle, which will lead to thread breaks.

Part 3: Types of Needles

Universal Needles

Universal needles are intended for all-purpose sewing. It is recommended to use a universal needle for woven fabrics as it is designed with rounded edges and a tapered point, meaning the needle isn’t so sharp that it will shred the fabric. The shape of the needle allows it to slip through woven fabrics easily rather than cutting through it which can wreck the fabric.

Super Non-Stick Universal Needles

A popular new needle on the market is a super non-stick needle. These universal needles are coated with a super non-stick coating like the kind you’d find on a Teflon pan. This coating allows the needle to glide through tacky materials like stabilizer, which makes a huge difference in improving the stitch quality and consistency and preventing thread breaks.

Ballpoint/Jersey Needles

Similar to universal needles, a ballpoint or jersey needle has rounded edges to avoid cutting the fabric. However, it differs in that it carries a much more blunted point in comparison to the universal, allowing it to slide between the weave of the fabric and preventing holes or runs in the knit fibres. It is best used for close knit fabrics such as jersey or interlock fabrics.

Embroidery Needles

Because machine embroidery involves a lot of high-speed stitching in a dense area, embroidery needles offer a larger, elongated eye that helps protect the thread, preventing it from breaking. The scarf is also specially shaped to prevent thread breaks and keep a consistent stitch quality at high-speed.

Topstitching Needles

Topstitching needles are designed with an extra-large eye and sharper point, allowing it to accommodate larger decorative top threads. Other specialty threads that are usually considered less strong, such as metallic threads, should also be used with this needle as the larger eye allows the thread the flexibility to move around more, preventing thread breaks.

Metallic Needles

These needles are similar to an embroidery needle in that they are designed with a larger polished eye and scarf to prevent the thread from shredding. These needles are intended for metallic threads.

Quilting Needles

Quilting needles are designed with an extra-long shaft and tapered point made to penetrate several layers of fabric and batting. Its slightly rounded point prevents damage to the multiple layers of material and keeps the thread from shredding.

Microtex/Sharps Needles

These needles are more slender and much sharper than most needles. They are designed to penetrate finely woven, delicate or microfibre fabrics, or for doing appliqué or quilting with fine threads.

Denim/Jeans Needles

Denim and similarly thick cotton fabrics like canvas may cause problems with other needles due to the heavy material the needle must sew through. This needle is designed with an extra strong and sharp tip, as well as a slender eye that aids the thread in gliding through the thick material and preventing skipped stitches.

Leather Needles

Designed for heavy and dense materials such as leather, artificial leather, and thick non-woven materials such as vinyl. Leather needles have a distinct triangular shape made to penetrate through these materials with a clean, large hole.

These are just some of the most common domestic sewing machine needles on the market. Let us know in the comments if you learned something new from this video or tell us about a sewing needle you can’t live without. 

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Needle Punch Tutorial & Free Patterns!

Needle punch is a simple way you can easily and quickly create beautiful stitched patterns and designs. We’ll show you how to set up your needle punch tool, our recommended thread and materials, and walk you through simple tips on how you can use this technique to create different textures and stitches. We’ve even included a few FREE printable patterns below to help get you started on your next needle punch project!

Materials:

• Download one the free patterns by clicking here.

• Recommended thread: Eleganza™ #8 perle cotton thread: https://shopwonderfil.com/product-category/eleganza/

• Needle punch tool (we used one by Clover)

• Embroidery hoop (to fit the free patterns above, we used a 5.5” hoop)

• 100% cotton monk’s cloth with an even weave

• (optional) A light table to trace your pattern onto the fabric, we used one by Daylight

• Clear glue

Before you can begin needle punching, you’ll need to prepare your fabric. Download one of the patterns from the link above or select one of your own. You can trace this pattern onto your monk’s fabric using a light table or by holding it up against a window. Some patterns can also be transferred using an iron or with carbon paper and will come with instructions on how to do so.

We recommend using a 100% cotton monk’s cloth with an even weave as this will be the easiest to keep your stitches looking consistent and straight.

Once your pattern is traced, hoop the fabric tightly in an embroidery hoop. For the free patterns available above, we used a size 5.5” hoop. You can then proceed to load your needle punch tool with thread. Our recommendation is a #8 size perle cotton as this will offer enough friction in the fabric to hold, while still showing boldly. We used #8 Eleganza perle cotton as it has a very tight twist which prevents untwisting, and a low lint finish that allows it to pull easily through the fabric.

Your needle punch should come with a needle threader. Slide it through the tool from the base of the needle so that the threader is facing the top end of the punch. You can then slide the thread through the threader loop and pull it back through the punch, drawing the thread with it through to the base of the needle.

Inserting the needle threader.

Sliding the thread through the needle threader’s loop.

Drawing the needle threader back out, pulling the thread with it. Your needle punch is now threaded!

Leave a tail of a few inches of thread and slowly begin punching through the fabric, filling in the design. You’ll notice two sides to the fabric, one that sticks out with loops, and the backside which is shorter. You can choose to make either side your “right” side.

Front side.

Back side.

For reference, the side you do the punching from will be the “back side” of the fabric, while the opposite side will be the “front side”. When you’re finished filling in a section, trim away the thread and secure the back side with clear glue.

To create an optional fun texture, you can take a pair of scissors and cut the loops on the front side of the fabric, releasing them. You’ll end up with a soft and fuzzy texture that can be trimmed down around the edges of the design to keep the edges clean and crisp.

Cutting the loops.

The resulting texture after cutting the loops.

To change the texture and add a bit of contrast in the design, we’ll be flipping the hoop over and punching from the “front side” instead of the “back side”. Since these stitches will now be more visible, an option while you’re filling in the design is to move back and forth in a zig zag pattern. This creates an even satin stitch that mimics the shape of the leaf.

Once again, when you’re finished filling in a section, trim away the thread and apply clear glue to secure the stitches at the start and end of the thread.

Play with the side you punch from to create a variety of textures for your project! Continue these steps until your design is complete. Below is the front side of our hoop.

To finish your hoop, trim the fabric to the edge of the hoop. We’ll be leaving our design in the hoop to frame and hang it.

Experiment with the textures you can create using this fun and simple tool! This is a versatile way to efficiently fill in designs in by hand and get creative.

Feeling inspired? This needle punch is available from Clover. You can find Eleganza™ in a whopping 340 unique solid and variegated colours to play with. Find it in a local store near you at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local or to order it online. Share your needle punch projects with us on social media using #wonderfil, we’d love to be inspired by you!

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5 Ways to Use Water Soluble Thread

Usually a thread is meant to hold things together, not disappear when exposed to water! However, water soluble thread has a lot of fantastic uses that you may not have thought of before. (Pro tip: don’t forget you can’t lick the end of this thread when threading a needle). Here’s a list of 5 great ways you can use water soluble thread so you can both improve your sewing and sew more efficiently!

This is Rinse ‘n Gone, and like its name sounds, it will actually melt and disappear when exposed to water. Remember: Do not lick the end of it to help thread your needle! We also recommend storing it in a sealed bag in a dry place as direct exposure to liquid can wreck your spool.

Basting quilts or clothing:
There’s a lot of times you might want to baste when sewing a project together. The beauty of using water soluble thread is that you don’t have to pull the basting stitches back out when you’re finished with them!

You can use it to baste your quilt top in place to keep it from shifting when you’re quilting it. Start by positioning the piece you want to quilt using pins, then using a hand sewing needle threaded with Rinse ‘n Gone, make big basting stitches across the project, removing the pins as each section is secured. Now you can quilt my project without needing to worrying about quilting around the pins. The basting can easily be removed by putting the quilt or project in the washing machine on a gentle cycle, or simply scrubbing out the thread with a wet toothbrush.

Use Rinse ‘n Gone to baste clothing pieces together. Sometimes a pattern will call for easing in sleeves or gathering fabric, and a basting stitch is perfect to do that temporarily before you stitch it down permanently. Like a quilt top, just give your project a wash in the machine when you’re finished, or take a damp toothbrush or sponge and gently brush it away. The thread will disappear like magic.

Trapunto:
Water soluble thread works great when securing your initial layer of batting when doing trapunto. First, draw your trapunto design with a washaway marker. Now place two layers of high loft batting under your design and stitch around your raised layer with Rinse ‘n Gone thread in the needle, and a bobbin thread in the bottom, such as DecoBob 80wt thread. Turn your work around and trim the batting away close to the stitch line.

Next, layer your piece with your regular batting and backing. Quilt around your design as desired with your chosen quilting thread, leaving the raised layers unquilted. When your work is complete, simply wash your project or spray with water and brush with a toothbrush to remove the Rinse ‘n Gone.

Slashed textured fabric:
Here’s an interesting texture you can give your fabric. Using three layers of fabric, with the top two rights sides facing up, and the bottom right side facing down, hand baste it all together with big stitches using Rinse ‘n Gone.

When it’s all secure, load your sewing machine with a permanent sewing thread and sew straight lines across one end of your fabric to the other, about a half inch apart or following the edge of your presser foot.

When you’re finished, take a pair of scissors and snip only the top layer of fabric between the lines of stitching. Wash your project and give the raw edges of the fabric a brush, resulting in this textured fabric you can use on anything from quilts to bags, to clothing and accessories.

Perfect appliqué:
Take two pieces of the fabric, one you want to appliqué with and the other a scrap piece that can be discarded later. Place the appliqué fabric right side down. Load your machine with Rinse ‘n Gone in the bobbin and a regular sewing thread in the top. I’ll be using DecoBob, an 80wt cottonized polyester thread, since it will allow my appliqué to lay flat and make my miters sharper. Trace your appliqué shape on the fabric and sew along the lines. You won’t need to backstitch at the beginning or end.

Once you’ve gone all the way around, make sure you trim the excess fabric close to the sewing line. Remember to snip around all curves and into corners so you can have sharp, mitered lines.

Now you’ll have a piece that will need to be turned right side out. Snip an X through the middle of your scrap fabric to make a turning hole, being careful not to cut the fabric on the other side.

Take a hot iron and make sure the steam setting is as high as it will go. Press your appliqué with steam to make the soluble thread disappear. If that doesn’t remove all of the water soluble thread, you can also scrub it away with a wet toothbrush. The remaining top thread can be pulled out and discarded.

Now pull the fabric pieces apart, discard the scrap fabric, and you have a perfectly turned piece of appliqué that can be sewn onto your project. Choose either a decorative stitch with a medium to thick thread if you want the thread to show, or a fine thread with a zigzag stitch if you want the thread to disappear.

Stitching together small pieces of wash away stabilizer:
Do you have lots of smaller pieces of wash away stabilizer that you want to use in your embroidery machine, but they won’t fit in the larger hoop? Rinse ‘n Gone is the perfect way to sew those smaller pieces of stabilizer together because it will wash away with the stabilizer when you’re finished the embroidery. You can choose to use this as a top thread and bobbin thread in your machine, or stitch it by hand.

Holding down a design in a large embroidery hoop:
Sometimes when doing a smaller design in a large embroidery hoop, your project will end up shifting. Adding some basting stitches with Rinse ‘n Gone will prevent your embroidery from moving while the machine is stitching, and you can easily wash or brush away the stitches once it’s completed. By preventing the layers from shifting, your embroidery designs will be much less likely to pucker, especially with small or highly detailed designs.

Embroidery design without basting with Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design with basting using Rinse ‘n Gone.

Embroidery design after Rinse ‘n Gone is washed out.

Let us know how you like to use wash away thread in the comments, or share a project you made using Rinse ‘n Gone! Inspired to add Rinse ‘n Gone to your sewing room? Find it in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com or to order online.

5 Tips to Avoid Thread Breaks

It’s a problem every sewist can relate to! We’ve all been there, but how do you know what’s causing your threads to break? Here are 5 tips to quickly help identify and resolve this common sewing issue!

Tip #1: Needle size and type

As a general rule it is always an important routine to check your machine needles. Oftentimes a thread break problem occurs when you have the incorrect needle. Before you sew, make sure your needle is the correct size for the thread you’re sewing with in the project. In both American and European sizes, the smaller the number shown on the package, the smaller the needle. The same goes for larger numbers. Smaller needles are good for finer threads, such as 80wt, and larger needles are designed for heavier threads such as 12wt. For reference, medium thread like 40wt or 50wt will often use an 80/12 size needle.

You should also make sure you have the correct needle type for the fabric you are sewing. For instance, you would use a denim needle when sewing heavy denim fabric. Or a ball point needle with jersey fabric. All needle types serve a purpose, so be sure to research what you need to achieve optimal results!

It is good to note the importance of the proper needle as the size and type will have a huge impact on the success of your project. Using an incorrect needle could be the cause of skipped stitches and tension issues that will also result in thread breaks.

Tip #2: Bobbin thread

Another cause of thread breakage could be your bobbin thread. Some bobbin thread of a lesser quality will either leave lint, fluff, or have adhesive residue which can interfere with the machine’s functionality. You should check out the bobbin’s casing and surroundings as the thread could be caught, tangled or running improperly as a result of it. As a result, we always highly recommend using a bobbin that doesn’t have any glue or residue applied to it. Threads that have residues applied will feel slightly tacky to the touch. For example, side-less bobbins are held together by glue to keep them together.

If you wound the bobbin yourself, be careful not to overwind the bobbin. This can happen easily with finer bobbin threads as the machine’s self-stopping mechanism doesn’t always detect the finer thread right away. If you wind your own bobbin, we recommend stopping slightly before the edge of the bobbin to avoid this.

We always recommend using a finer bobbin thread, such as DecoBob 80wt, to achieve better tension results. Because the bottom thread is smaller, it will reduce the bulk in the fabric and also always give way to the top thread, meaning your threads won’t be fighting for tension in the machine.

Tip #3: Tension

This is always an important factor to consider when sewing. Thread breaks can happen if the tension is too tight on either the top or the bottom. We always recommend sewing a test strip on a scrap fabric to check the quality of your tension before starting your project. If you see the bobbin thread pulling through to the top, it means the top tension is too tight and should be loosened.

If you see the top thread pulling through to the bottom, it means the bobbin tension is too tight and the bobbin tension should be loosened. Every machine is different, as are factors such as the type and weight of thread you’re using, the fabric you’re using, the batting and stabilizer. With so many different considerations at play, it’s best to always sew a test piece and adjust your tension as needed.

Tip #4: Cross Wound or Stack Wound Thread

If you’ve ever taken a close look at your thread spools, you may have noticed there are two different ways the thread is wound onto the spool. Stack wound thread is when the thread is wound on the spool in a straight and even pattern. Cross wound thread is the more common of the two and will be wound in an angled pattern. If you are sewing with a stack wound spool, your thread will need to draw off the side of the spool. This is easily done by placing it on the vertical spool pin of your sewing machine. If you are sewing with a cross wound spool, then you will need to draw the thread from the top of the spool. You can do this by placing it on the horizontal spool pin of the machine. Placing the spool on the wrong pin will cause the thread to drag across the spool, which will cause tension problems and can result in thread breaks.

Tip #5: Accessories

If you’re sewing with a specialty thread, it’s best to consider how some sewing accessories can enhance your sewing experience. If you have a slippery thread that tends to pool around the base of your spool, we highly recommend using a Wonder Guard™. Wrap this thread guard around the spool to stop the slippery thread from sliding down around the base of the cone, which can get caught, tangled, and change the tension of your thread and cause thread breaks.

In addition to this, a Thread Tamer is also great idea for slippery threads or threads that curl, such as metallic thread. Drawing the thread through the multiple slots will help pull those curls out of a metallic thread and also give the thread a chance to relax before it enters the machine. This is a huge benefit to slippery threads and metallic threads that tend to have these problems.

We hope this helps you understand the causes of thread breaks and the ways you could prevent them! Tell us in the comments if you have a question about thread breaks. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive. We respect your information.