Introducing the Bobbinator™ - A Unique Sewing Accessory

Check out the Bobbinator on our Canadian online site for a closer look!

This unique item turns your bobbin into a spool of thread so that there is no need to purchase a separate top thread for small to medium sized projects! The Bobbinator includes a reserve chamber to keep 3 additional bobbins in storage, making it to easily store total of 4 bobbins.

The cap on each end of the device twists off, with one end opening to the storage chamber and the other end opening to the compartment that holds the bobbin you’ll be sewing with as a top thread.

Simply drop a bobbin into the main compartment and draw the thread through the slit. Twist the cap back on and the Bobbinator device and you’re now ready to use the bobbin thread as a top thread on either the horizontal or vertical spool pin. After placing it on your thread pin of choice, simply thread your machine like normal. This handy device lifts the bobbin thread out so that it doesn’t drag against the edge of the bobbin, causing tension changes. This is perfect for bringing a few colours as needed to guild meetings, events, and classes instead of bringing your entire thread box.

But you don’t need to just use it for machine sewing. Each bobbin included with this device is a DecoBob 80wt cottonized poly pre-wound bobbin. This thread makes for an ideal English paper piecing and hand appliqué thread as the super fine thread allows the fabric to sit tighter together and lay flatter, with the thread blending in so it won’t be seen. The Bobbinator makes it easy to keep the thread organized and tidy while you stitch at home or on the go.

DecoBob is also an excellent choice for hand and machine piecing, quilting, machine embroidery and digitized lace designs, button holes, and hidden stitches. Every Bobbinator pack includes 10 DecoBob pre-wound bobbins in your choice of grey or beige colours, as well as 1 Bobbinator device.

It also comes in a special variety made just for Sue Daley exclusively in her signature pink colour and her favourite 10 colours of DecoBob.

Included with every Bobbinator pack are prewound bobbins wound with our super fine 80wt DecoBob™ thread, an excellent bobbin thread that can be paired with any top thread. DecoBob™ is ideal for hand and machine piecing, quilting, machine embroidery and digitized lace designs, button holes, and hidden stitches. Enjoy with your bobbin thread as a top thread!

Want to try a Bobbinator for yourself or as a gift for that special friend? Find a store in your area that carries WonderFil at http://www.shopwonderfil.ca/shop-local. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

10 Ways to Sew with Heavy 12wt Thread

Some sewers might be stumped on what to use 12wt thread for, afterall it isn’t your traditional medium sized thread. What a lot of people don’t realize is how beautiful, bold, and versatile this thicker thread can be, and what kind of effects you can create with it. We’ll also take a closer look at the different types of 12wt thread you can find and when you might want to choose one over the other.

1. Thread Painting

12wt threads are a fantastic choice for thread painting for a few reasons. Because the thread is thicker, you can actually cover more area with less thread, making it a lot more efficient to thread paint with a 12wt thread. In addition, you’ll also find that the thread sits a little higher from the fabric. This gives a bolder textural effect to your project than using a medium weight thread would.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

2. Cross Stitch

These threads are thick enough for cross stitching projects, especially when you want to use a fabric or fibre with a finer weave. In this project, we used Spagetti™ and Fruitti™ 12wt cotton threads, which pull smoothly through the fabric due to their ultra low lint finish.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

3. Machine Embroidery

40wt threads are the standard when it comes to machine embroidery, but you can create a new look by using 12wt thread in your embroidery machine. If you have a larger design, or a design that isn’t too intricate, a 12wt thread will show the pattern much more boldly without needing to double stitch the same lines. Your pattern will also show off better due to the thicker thread.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

4. Hand Embroidery

If you love doing hand embroidery and sometimes split the strands of embroidery thread to make a finer thread, we would caution you against this. Splitting the strands of a thicker thread can weaken the thread while also giving it a lintier look. Instead of doing this, try using a 12wt thread which is comparable in size to an 8wt thread that’s been split in two. This way you won’t damage the thread, and you’ll keep your stitches looking clean and beautiful.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

5. Decorative Stitching

The decorative stitches built into most sewing machines are perfect for utilizing 12wt threads for fun, stand-out stitches. They’re perfect for decorating any project, whether it’s a stocking for your family, adding a small decorative line of stitching to a piece of clothing, or embellishing any quilt or table runner. A 12wt thread will give every decorative stitch a little more emphasis than a regular medium weight thread would.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

6. Needle Punch

Needle punching is a tool that can be used to create incredible textural effects, and it works best with thicker threads like 12wt. Depending on how you use the tool, you can make either dense loops or weave back and forth to fill in a space. This is a fantastic way to add a unique look to any project.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

7. Big Stitch Hand Quilting

12wt is one of the best threads to use for big stitch hand quilting because the thick thread really stands out against the fabric. You’ll also find it easier to handle a 12wt thread versus a medium weight thread as it is less delicate and sits better in a wide running stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

8. Machine Quilting & Longarm Quilting

If you’re not afraid of bold stitches that love to show off, a 12wt thread is the perfect choice when used for quilting. 12wt is actually the thickest thread you can put through the eye of a machine needle, so you can guarantee a quilted look where the thread adds another dimension of texture and colour.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

9. Red Work

Red work is a form of American embroidery that traditionally uses red thread and basic stitches to decorate household items. It can be completed with a simple backstitch following a traced pattern to create motifs that can decorate anything from dishcloths to quilts to cushion covers. A 12wt thread stands out beautifully against white fabric, making it ideal for outlining patterns.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

10. Sashiko

Sashiko is a Japanese embroidery technique that uses a simple running stitch to create beautiful geometric patterns or imagery. Traditionally they use white thread on an indigo dyed fabric, but these days, you can use any colours you like. Sashiko can be done by hand using a running stitch and a long hand embroidery or sashiko needle. However, you can also purchase a sashiko machine which replicates the look of a hand stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

Tell us in the comments where you’ve used 12wt threads, or where you would like to try them in a project! You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Getting Started With Crochet: Beginner Stitches

We’re here to teach you a few basic crochet stitches that will help introduce you to crochet! This is a fun, relaxing pastime that is easy to take with you on long road trips or on the go. Once you master these basic stitches, it’s easy to create a variety of different projects.

These basic stitches can be used to create the top for this cute little girl’s dress. We’ve included the FREE crochet pattern for this top which can be downloaded and printed by clicking here. This pattern uses each of the crochet stitches shown in the video below.

The dress was created using Eleganza #3, a high quality, long staple Egyptian cotton. For the beginner crocheter, you will appreciate the quality, as it is not prone to twisting and tangling. It is the heaviest weight of Eleganza, which also makes it great for beginners. We will also be using a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

To learn these stitches, check out the video below for detailed step-by-step instructions.

1. Chain Stitch (CH)

2. Single Crochet (SC)

3. Double Crochet (DC)

4. Double Crochet in One Spot

5. Double Crochet, Chain 3, Double Crochet in One Spot

6. Scallop Edges

7. Half Double Crochet (HDC)

8. Treble Stitch (TR)

9. Slip Stitch

Don’t forget, to learn how to these stitches, check out our video for details step-by-step instructions!

That’s all you need to know to create the dress pattern. It would be a good idea to practice some of these stitches before you begin to get used to the motion. One of the difficulties beginners will encounter is recognizing the skip stitch at the start of each row, so as not to unintentionally increase or decrease your stitch count in each row. So at first, practice doing a piece of either just single crochets or double crochet, to make sure you can keep your stitch count the same row to row and your piece straight and square. The stitches for the butterfly and flower addition to this top are a bit more complicated, so let us know if you would like to see another crochet tutorial for those.

Thanks for tuning in. Please send us pictures of your finished dresses; we would love to see them! Don’t forget to leave a comment in the comment section below and let us know what you would like to see next. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Hemming Lightweight Fabrics With a Serger & Sewing Machine

We’ll show you the easiest way to make a rolled hem on chiffon fabric, or any other similar lightweight material. We’ll first demonstrate it on the serger, then with a domestic machine for those who don’t own a serger. Using the recommended materials and this technique, the result will be a beautiful rolled hem that looks just as professional as if it came from the store!

A lot of formalwear uses sheer, lightweight fabrics, and this method is a good way to keep the edge looking professional like it had never been modified. Apart from your machine, you’ll only need some small but important materials:

First, you’ll want to choose the right thread. We’ll be using a 100wt poly thread called InvisaFil, which is going to blend really well in the fabric so you don’t even see it. And because the thread is so fine, it will stitch more easily through the thin fabric, resulting in fewer ruffles. It’s important to use a very fine thread like this because apart from showing less, it also won’t weigh down the lightweight fabric either.

Because the thread is so fine, we’re also going to choose a needle with a smaller eye. Choose a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle which works best on light fabrics.

Finally, I’m going to use a bobbin that’s been pre-wound with DecoBob thread. This is an 80wt poly thread that comes already pre-wound on a plastic sided bobbin which will pair well with the top thread. You can alternatively wind your own bobbin with the InvisaFil thread, just remember wind it slowly since the thin thread tends to float away. If you’re going to hem your fabric on a serger, obviously you won’t use a bobbin so you’ll want DecoBob thread on a spool for your lower loopers.

On a Serger: 

We are going to use a 3 thread rolled hem, with InvisaFil in the needle and upper looper, and DecoBob in the lower looper. Consult with your serger manual and adjust the stitch length and cutting blade to get a close narrow hem.

Once your machine is threaded, do a test run on similar fabric to make sure your fabric is not puckering. You may have to adjust your differential settings to get a flat, smooth edge. 

Mark your hem with a disappearing marking pen, and serge exactly along your marked line. This is the simplest method for a quick fine hem on chiffon or similar fine fabric.

On a Domestic Sewing Machine With a Rolled Hem:

If you want to hem fine fabric on a domestic machine, this two step method will help you achieve perfect results. Mark where you want your finished hem and cut 1” below the marked line. We will trim this closer later. Be sure to spread the fabric out flat and even as these types of fabrics can easily shift during cutting. Thread your machine with InvisaFil on top and DecoBob in the bobbin. Now you’re ready to sew!

Using your fingers, tuck the edge of the fabric over 1/8” below the finished hem length and stitch very close to this folded edge. Do this all the way to the end of the fabric. If you’re hemming a sleeve or skirt, or anything where your piece is a loop, we recommend starting and ending on the seam to help hide the backstitching.

When you’re done, use a pair of sharp, fine tipped scissors to cut away the remaining fabric as close as you can to your line of stitching without snipping into the stitching itself. Exercise caution so you don’t accidentally snip over your seam. Do this all the way to the end.

Press all the way around to sink the stitches into the fabric and smooth any puckers.

Once you’ve finished trimming the excess fabric and pressing, tuck the edge 1/8” over one more time (along the finished hem marking) and stitch it down again over the original line of stitching to complete your rolled hem. If you have trouble tucking the edge over with your fingers and keeping the 1/8” length consistent, you can press the edge down with an iron before sewing.

That’s all there is to it! You can see how little the thread shows in the finished hem as well how flat the edge sits because the fine thread doesn’t add extra bulk. As most hems have a curved edge, doing the hem in two steps helps keep your hem even and consistent and eliminates any problems. These materials combined with these simple techniques are all you need for perfect, professional hemming.

(Left: done with serger. Right: done with domestic machine.)

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Best Practices to Store Your Sewing Thread

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from early fading and aging.

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. While thread doesn’t have a set expiry date, there are a few factors that can lead to faster aging. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from aging early, which can lead to weakened thread and faded colors.

If you love to show off all the pretty colors in your thread stash, you might mount them on your wall. There’s no better way to decorate your sewing room than with a wall full of gorgeous threads, and this makes it really easy to see all the colors you have to choose from all at once. However, if you’re storing your threads out in the open this way, it’s a good idea to take note of the sun exposure in the room. If you have a lot of sunlight shining on your threads for hours every day, the UV light can speed up the breakdown of the thread fibres, leading to weakened thread that breaks more easily after years of exposure.

This UV light can also cause the thread color to fade on the exposed surface, especially with red colors. These aren’t things that will happen overnight, but if you’re going through some of your threads more slowly, it can happen if you’re not paying attention over a few years. So, if you have some threads that you don’t use as often, it might be better to put them away in a closed container away from the sun.

Choose a home storage container with opaque drawers or boxes, something that the sun won’t penetrate. Keeping your threads put away in a closed container will also prevent dust from landing on the thread. While dust won’t impact the quality of the thread itself, it can come off while you’re sewing with it in the machine, adding to the lint build up inside.

Something to consider while your threads are stored in containers is the use of a Wonder Guard. This little sheet wraps around your spool of thread and stops it from unravelling. It’s perfect for organizing your thread and will prevent a lot of mess and tangles in your storage containers.

Another factor to consider is the climate you live in. If your home is somewhere very dry, you may wish to consider running a humidifier in your house. An excessively dry climate can also lead to the fibres of your thread drying out and weakening as a result. On the other hand, a very moist climate can also cause thread fibres to break down. You should choose to store your threads in a location in your home that isn’t too hot and dry, like near your furnace, but also away from direct water exposure.

We hope this helps you choose the best storage space for your threads so they can keep working long and hard for you! Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Razzle™ & Dazzle™: 8wt Rayon & Rayon + Metallic Threads

These juicy 8wt threads know how to show off boldly. Razzle™ 100% rayon and Dazzle™ rayon with metallic threads can be used for a variety of hand techniques, in serger loopers, and even in domestic sewing machines with specific techniques. They can add a totally new dimension to your projects that can’t be achieved with any other kind of thread. Let’s take a closer look at what makes Razzle™ and Dazzle™ threads so unique.

Razzle is an 8wt 100% rayon thread with a gorgeous and soft lustre, while Dazzle is an 8wt rayon with one strand of metallic running through it for when you just need a wink of sparkle.

When you think 8wt threads, one of the first uses that comes to mind is hand embroidery. Razzle and Dazzle are popular choices because unlike other 8wt rayon threads on the market, they have a tight twist that resists unravelling, making it ideal for pulling it through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. You can stitch confidently for beautiful and perfect hand embroidered embellishments.

Consider Razzle and Dazzle for other hand techniques like sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, visible mending, crochet, crafts, and tassels.

But these threads aren’t just limited to hand sewing. You can use these threads on the upper and lower loopers of your serger to create fantastic decorative edging on any project. Because these threads are made with rayon, they’ll leave a soft, silky, and shiny edging that is perfect for quickly finishing small quilts, panels, clothing, or any piece you want. We even made a tutorial to show you how to set up your serger and do this for yourself, which you can check out by clicking here.

While 8wt threads are too large to fit through the eye of your machine needle, that doesn’t mean you can’t use them on your sewing machine. Razzle and Dazzle make for an incredible couching thread that stands out from the fabric to create a gorgeous, touchable surface texture. You can also wind them on your bobbin to do bobbin work, which is a technique where you sew upside down to get away with sewing with these heavy 8wt threads in your machine. These techniques are perfect for adding that little extra bling and texture to any project.

Razzle comes in 46 solid colors in the WonderFil line, and 54 solid and variegated colors in the Sue Spargo collection. And Dazzle is offered in 34 colors in the WonderFil line, 36 colors in the Sue Spargo collection, and 35 unique twisted colors in the Starry Night Hollow collection by Kim Rado. These gorgeous threads are enough for anyone to fall in love with. 

Inspired to sew with Razzle and Dazzle? Shop the Sue Spargo collection at www.suespargo.com, or find all of these colors in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local.

7 Ways to Use Iron Fusible Thread

We’re going to show you a very useful tool for your sewing room: iron fusible thread. You can use this either in your bobbin or as a top thread, and it’s a great way to do everything from appliqué, lining up fabric patterns, or even making the perfect quilt binding. WonderFil’s Iron ‘n Fuse thread will actually melt and glue your fabric down when exposed to the heat of an iron. But it’s not permanent, you can still pull it up and move your pieces around, then re-fuse it in place if you don’t like the placement. There’s a lot of things you can use it for, so let’s check them out.

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1: Matching stripes, plaids, & patterns:

You don’t need a sewing machine for this one. Lay the thread on the right side of the fabric, along where you want the seam to be. Then take your second piece, line the pattern up to where you want it, and leave it right sides facing together. Give your fabric a quick press and the fusible thread will keep everything in place without pins!

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2: Applique:

Wind the Iron ‘n Fuse on an empty bobbin and use a regular sewing thread on top. Stitch around the appliqué shape, press, remove the top thread, and then trim closely. Use a decorative stitch on the raw edges of the fabric to finish appliquéing it down. The result is a natural looking appliqué without the stiffness of fusible interfacing; it also helps to reduce the puckering caused by using pins. If you happen to place your appliqué incorrectly, you can peel it up, move it and re-fuse it in place.

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3: Binding a quilt:

Place your folded binding on the wrong side of your quilt. Use a tight zig zag to attach it to the quilt, with fusible thread in your bobbin and regular thread in the top.  Now turn your binding to the right side and fuse over the seam. You can now stitch your binding down, stitching close to the edge of the binding. You will be sure to catch the underside of your binding.

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4: In the lower loopers of a serger: 

Serge around your hemline with fusible thread in the lower looper of your serger and regular thread in the needle and upper looper. Turn up hem and fuse, then turn your work to the right side and stitch for a simple turned up hem.

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5: Curved hem:

Run a row of long basting stitches along your curved hem edge, with a regular thread in the needle and the fusible thread in the bobbin. Gently pull up on your bobbin thread to ease in the shape of your curved hem, and then fuse your hem in place. This will make hand stitching your hem in place easier. You could also turn your work right side up to machine stitch your hem without worrying about the hem being distorted on the underside.

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6: Placing zippers:

Baste your zipper opening closed, then press the seam open. Run a row  of stitching along both seam allowances, with the fusible thread in the needle and the bobbin. Center your zipper under your seam, and press both sides to fuse down the seam allowances and at the same time fuse your zipper in place. You can now stitch around your zipper without worrying about it shifting. When your stitching is complete, remove the basting thread that holds the opening closed.

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7: Making pleats crisp:

Mark your pleat lines on your fabric (both inside pleats and outside pleats). Now stitch a scant 1/8” away from the marked lines, with regular thread in the top and fusible thread in the bobbin (the bobbin thread should be on the inside of the pleat). Using a press cloth, press along your marked lines. The fusible thread will help to make the pleats crisp.

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Let us know how you like to use iron fusible thread in the comments, or if this blog inspired you to try something new using iron fusible thread! You can also watch these tips in action in the video below.

Inspired to sew with Iron ‘n Fuse? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing NEW WonderFil Wearables Series

Welcome to our new series, WonderFil Wearables! We’ll show you some great ideas and techniques for creating your own unique clothing items. Together, we’ll cover ways to embellish purchased garments, creating your own garments from scratch, adjusting existing patterns, and some of our own free simpler patterns you can download for yourself.

There will be tutorials for both beginners and advanced sewers on basic sewing machines, embroidery machines, and sergers. We’ll also talk about using WonderFil threads in wearable knit and crochet projects, and even venture into the exciting world of cosplay. So, whether you are just starting to sew or looking to expand into more challenging projects, this is the place for you. Join us each week to create your own one-of-a-kind wardrobe!

Metallic Embroidered Tie Tutorial (Free Embroidery Pattern Included!)

If you’re looking for that perfect gift for the father, husband, or friend in your life, this personalized embroidered tie will make a statement in any board room. We’ve even included 3 free digitized embroidery designs for you to download! All you need to do is choose your thread colours and add initials.

We have included 3 totally free digitized designs for you to download: a game controller, a fish and a bug. You can choose which you’d like to download and in what file type by clicking here. We are showing the finished product with a personalized monogram, but we leave these for you to add, so you can have the right initials.

We have chosen to use a purchased black tie as the backdrop for our embroidery. You can choose any color, but a solid color will show off the design better. To fit the included designs, the tie must be at least 2 inches wide at the point where you want your design to sit.

We have decided to stitch out the design in WonderFil’s metallic thread, Spotlite. Spotlite is a 40 wt metallic with a rayon core. Since rayon has no stretch, the core won’t stretch as a polyester or nylon core might. That stretching can cause the metallic wrap to separate, which causes the shredding and breaking that sometimes happens with metallic threads. Since the rayon core in Spotlite doesn’t stretch, that is less likely to happen, so you will have trouble free embroidery stitches, and a soft finish to the design.

We will be pairing the Spotlite with our 80wt DecoBob in the bobbin. Even very dense stitching stays soft when you have a fine bobbin thread and the evenly wound prewound bobbins will also ensure that you have no tension issues as you stitch out your design. As always, we will be using a Thread Tamer and a WonderGuard to tame the curl in the metallic thread, and a large eye 90/14 topstitch needle. As you will be using a sticky stabilizer to stabilize the tie, you can also use a universal super nonstick needle as another option. See our video on stitching trouble free with metallic thread without the headache to learn our tricks on sewing with metallic thread.

To begin, we will hoop this sticky stabilizer, paper side up, in the hoop. We are going to lightly score the paper around the edge of the hoop with a pin, and from corner to corner, so we can easily pull the paper away. Mark the center so you can easily place your tie on the right spot.

Decide where you want the center of your design to sit on the tie and mark the spot with some tailor’s chalk. With a stitch ripper, open up the back of the tie for at least 6”, so your tie can sit flat and open on the stabilizer. Using your hoop grid, place the tie centered on the hoop and smooth and press it in place so it sits flat and even.

Download the digitized design you prefer, in the format appropriate for your embroidery machine. If you choose, add the text or monogram from your machine’s text to the design before proceeding. Thread your machine with Spotlite in the first color, with a Decobob prewound bobbin in the bottom. Stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated. We have included the color numbers of Spotlite we used for our designs.

When your stitchout is complete, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and trim away on the underside of the tie. Trim all the threads, then using a hand needle and DecoBob, hand stitch the back of the tie closed again.

And there you have it. The man in your life will be proud to wear this fun, customized tie, and it is sure to be a conversation starter!

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Hand Stitched Buttonholes Tutorial

With all the beautiful machine buttonhole stitches out there right now, why bother making hand stitched buttonholes? Sometimes, you want to add a beautiful vintage look to your project. Or you might be working with a very heavy coat fabric and are struggling to get nice machine buttonholes. Or maybe you just want to add that extra special look to a project.

Handstitching your buttonholes can add a vintage look to your finished project, and choosing the right threads will give it a professional polish that will make it worth the extra effort. We’ll show you step by step how to mark, stitch, and cut your buttonholes for perfect results each time.

We are going to use this extra fine 100wt thread, InvisaFil, to stitch together the edges of our buttonhole. As the thread will be sitting under the decorative stitches, we don’t want it to show or add any bulk. Invisafil is a 100 wt polyester, so, while it is strong, the stitches will disappear in the fabric and won’t be seen.

We will also need a gimp thread to add extra strength and a bit of lift to our buttonhole. For this we will be using HomeDec. HomeDec is a very strong polyester thread that comes in three weights (30wt, 40wt, 60wt). We will be using the heaviest 40wt for this project, in a color to match the fabric.

For our decorative buttonhole stitch, we will use this 12wt double gassed cotton thread called Spagetti. The tight twist will make stitching easy, and the 12 weight thread gives a nice bold finish to the buttonhole.

We will need two hand stitching needles. For the fine InvisaFil thread, we’ll be using a #11 sharp needle. And for stitching with the heavier Spagetti, we will use a #7 embroidery needle which has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.

Using a spacing tool and some tailors chalk, evenly mark the starting point of each of your buttonholes.

As buttons all have different depths, here is a trick to mark the length of your buttonhole. Wrap your chosen button with a piece of twill tape, going around the fullest part of the button. Pin the ends of the twill tape.

Now pull out the button and lay the tape flat. The distance from the pin to the folded edge will be the length of your buttonhole.

Measure this length and mark the end of each buttonhole. Use a straight edge and some chalk to mark the buttonhole line.

Using a buttonhole cutting tool like this one by Clover, cut along this line. Cut and finish only one buttonhole at a time.

Thread a #11 sharp needle with InvisiFil, tying an overhand knot right behind the eye of the needle to prevent it from unthreading. Now begin to do a close whipstitch all along the open edge of your buttonhole, to hold the layers together.

Next, thread a #7 embroidery needle with a length of the Spagetti. Now, cut a length of the HomeDec thread twice the length of the buttonhole plus another 1 inch. (We’re using a bright, contrasting color in this demonstration so you can see it, but if you do it yourself, you should choose a thread color that matches the fabric). Hold or tape the gimp thread along the cut edge of the buttonhole. Starting at the back end of the buttonhole begin working a buttonhole stitch along the edge, catching the gimp thread underneath your stitch.

Work the buttonhole stitches close together to for a nice pearl edge along the cut edge of the buttonhole. When you get to the front end of the buttonhole work 3 or four stitches around the curve, before going back down the other side of the buttonhole, making sure to still catch the gimp thread underneath.

When you are back at your starting point, work a tack stitch of 3 to 4 stitches across the width of the buttonhole.  Pull your thread to the underside and thread the end through the under side of your stitches before trimming it off. Thread the gimp thread through the large eye needle thread it to the underside, and cut it off. Repeat this for all of your buttonholes.

That is all there is to it. While this is a bit time consuming, it will definitely add a special touch to your project. Pictured below is a finished buttonhole with a gimp thread that matches the color of the fabric.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)

Ever tried sewing with metallic threads and struggled with breakages and tension problems? It doesn’t need to be that way because metallic thread technology has come a long way, and we’re here to share some easy tips on how to make these dazzling threads run through your machine like magic. Just follow these easy steps and you too can add metallic threads to your sewing arsenal!

We’re going to tackle something a lot of people have struggled with: sewing with metallic threads. These threads can be intimidating to some people who have had a bad experience with them in the past, and we’re here to tell you that doesn’t need to be the case. Keep these simple steps in mind and you’ll be stitching with metallics stress-free!

First off, not every metallic thread is made the same. You’ll always want to use a high quality metallic thread, which will make all the difference when sewing with it. A lot of companies use a polyester core in their metallic threads because they think polyester is stronger.

However, polyester will also stretch more, so when the thread runs through all those bends in the machine, it will pull and stretch and increase the likelihood of it breaking. A stretchy core also means that when the thread is stitched out, it will stretch away from the metallic foil wrapped on top, exposing a white core which will show in an ugly way in your stitching.

WonderFil uses a rayon core in its Spotlite metallic threads, which has no stretch to it, which greatly reduces the likelihood of it breaking. It also means the core won’t stretch away from the foil in your stitching, so your stitches will look the way it’s intended to.

Now one of the most important things to do when sewing with a metallic thread is to use the correct bobbin thread. We strongly recommend a lighter weight bobbin thread such as DecoBob 80wt, and you’ll want to choose something like this because it won’t fight for tension with the metallic in the top. A lighter bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread, and it will also greatly reduce the bulk in your stitching so your needle won’t be pushing through more material. This will make a huge difference when sewing with a metallic thread.

The next thing you’ll want to keep in mind is which needle you’re using. If you’re sewing on a domestic machine or embroidery machine, use a 90/14 topstitch needle or a 90/14 metallic needle. If you’re using it on a longarm, use a size 16 needle. Always make sure when starting a project that you have a new needle in your machine, as even a small burr in the eye or a dull needle can cause a lot of grief.

Now these next steps aren’t necessary to run a metallic thread, but they will make your life easier. Metallic threads tend to carry more memory, meaning they’ll curl up on themselves a little. If the thread enters your machine this way it can cause tangling and thread breakages. A thread stand like the Thread Tamer has an attachment with multiple slots at the top where you can weave your thread through, which will help pull those little knots and curls out before it has a chance to enter your machine.

If you do not own a thread stand with this attachment, you can put your thread in a large cup or bowl behind your machine, which will give the thread a chance to relax before it enters your machine. However, a thread stand will still do a better job of this. 

Finally, you can use a Wonder Guard thread guard to additionally help pull those little curls out of the metallic thread and keep it from sliding around the spool as it comes off. The Wonder Guard is a wrap that clings to itself, which you can place snugly but not tightly around the metallic spool. Unlike a thread net which clings tightly against the spool and can change your tension, the Wonder Guard will sit over top the thread so it won’t change the tension at all.

By following these few simple steps, you can use metallic threads to embellish any kind of project. These threads are stunning to look at, so add them to your sewing arsenal without the headache. 

We hope you were able to learn something from this video and can feel more confident and comfortable when working with metallic threads. If you still have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comment section below! Inspired to sew with Spotlite™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

5 Clever Sewing Tips You May Not Have Thought Of!

We have 5 of our favourite sewing tips, perfect for any sewist. These clever tips can help run your sewing room more efficiently and improve your projects!

1. This seam remover from Kai Scissors can be your new best friend! When you have to rip out your seams, carefully use this tool to cut speedily through the stitches. It will save you so much time!

2. When you are cutting small pieces out of a pattern, instead of using pins, try using Wonder clips to hold together the pattern pieces to the fabric. This way not only it will hold together the pieces firmly, but you will also have something to grab on to while cutting such delicate pieces.

3. Have you ever used cork or leather for a project and experienced big holes whenever you tried to pin them together? Plus those heavy weight materials always make it difficult for pins to go through, too! In this case, try using Wonder clips instead of pins. They can hold your material together without leaving any holes in your project!

4. How do you store your cutting mats? A good way to store them flat is to hang them using binder clips. This way, the cutting mat doesn’t take up too much space and also can prevent it from getting warped when it leans against the floor and a wall.

5. Do you ever find it hard to organize all your hand needles in the correct sizes and sometimes forget which one is the one you were looking for? Take an old pin cushion and mark each section with the needle sizes that you use. When you pull one out to put in your machine, mark the spot with a decorative pin!

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Patch Jeans Without a Sewing Machine

Have you got a pair of jeans that has a big hole in it? As trendy as that might look, sometimes you just want to close it back up again. I’ll share with you a super easy way to patch the tears in your jeans and you don’t even need a sewing machine! This is a great way to keep them out of the dump so you can keep wearing them for years to come.

Before starting, cut away any extra threads from the hole. Next, measure the size of the tear and cut out a piece from another piece of heavy fabric about an inch bigger on each size. The fabric can be another piece of denim or other thick material such as canvas. Pin it in place, making sure to space your pins slightly away from the hole.

Now you’ll need the thread. I’ll be using this medium 40wt thread called Designer. It’s a strong polyester so it will help hold up to heavy use, and it’s has some stretch to it, so it will flex with the fabric. It also comes in 210 colours, so choose one that best matches the colour of your pants.

Thread your needle and tie a knot on one end. Then place the smaller piece of fabric behind the hole so it’s fully covered. Take a stitch on one end of the hole so that the knot is hidden on the inside of the fabric. Then go across to the other side of the hole and make another small stitch, this time making sure to put the needle through second layer of fabric as well. Return back to the other side of the hole and take another stitch, going through both layers of fabric.

You’re going to continue sewing back and forth, each time pulling the hole closed until you reach the other side. Tie off your thread. Now turn your pants inside out and trim the extra reinforcement fabric by your stitching. Be careful not to cut into the stitching itself.

Once you finish taking your last stitch, you can tie off the thread and snip it close. Turn your garment right side out again and massage the fabric around where the hole used to be to help relax the fabric. You should also give it a quick press with steam to reduce the puckering.

We hoped this tutorial helped you save a pair of jeans! Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Designer 40wt All-Purpose Polyester Thread

When you need a thread you can count on, Designer knows how to get it done. This reliable 40wt all-purpose polyester is made for any general sewing, garment construction, and sergers. Strong and flexible with a soft texture, it’s practical for any everyday use.

Fashion designers and professional dress makers love this thread for its strength and versatility. When you’re constructing clothes, an all-purpose polyester like Designer is your best choice. Because the thread has a little bit of flexibility to it, the seams will move with your body. Afterall, no one wants to hear the dreaded “pop, pop, pop” of stitches breaking when you raise your arms. This is something that can happen when sewing clothes together using cotton thread instead of a flexible all-purpose polyester, as cotton has little to no stretch to it.

But Designer isn’t just limited to the needle. This is a fabulous serger thread that is perfect for finishing the raw edges of any project. Designer is both colorfast and safe to iron, even on high heat. And it can be safely used in washer and dryer machines without losing its strength and durability. We recommend a size 80/12 universal needle when sewing with Designer.

And the best part? Designer comes in a whopping 210 different colors. That means you’ll always be able to find the perfect color match to any project.

Reach for Designer the next time you need a reliable general sewing thread or want to sew your own garments at home. Afterall, what holds your projects together is one of the most important factors, even when you can’t see it.

Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Double Fold Machine Bind a Quilt

We’re going to show you how to make a double fold quilt binding on a sewing machine. If you’re like us, we’re always eager to get our quilt finished at this point, so this is our favourite way to get this final step done quickly while making sure it still looks perfect.

Apart from the quilt itself, you’ll need a few basic things. We’re going to use this 80wt thread called DecoBob to stitch the binding. It’s a very fine thread with a matte finish, so it will hide in the fabric and make the stitching less obvious. It’s also a very strong thread despite its size, so this is a great option for piecing and stitching anything down securely.

You’ll also need a cutting mat with a rotary cutter and quilting ruler to cut your binding accurately. An iron is needed to give your binding strips a quick press. We’ll also need a disappearing marking pen or a piece of fabric chalk.

Most importantly, you’ll need the fabric you want to bind your quilt with. We’ll show you how to cut and sew it together. Most patterns will tell you how much fabric you need for a binding, however if you’re doing your own quilt, you’ll have to do some math to figure out how much you need. There is an excellent binding calculator provided by Quilter’s Paradise. Alternatively, you can use the following formula to calculate how much you’ll need.

Take the width of your quilt multiplied by two and add it with the length of your quilt multiplied by two to get the circumference of your quilt. Then add another ten inches to be on the safe side so you don’t run out of binding. Take this number and divide it by the width of your fabric to find out the number of strips you need to cut to complete your binding.

So for example, we might have a 20 inch by 30 inch quilt. The width of our binding fabric is 43 inches, and we want the binding to be 2 and a half inches wide.

20 inches times two, plus 30 inches times two, plus an extra 10 inches to be safe, equals 110 inches. We’ll take the 110 inches and divide that by the width of fabric, which is 43 inches, to get 2.6 strips of binding required. We can round this up to 3 strips to make it easier.

Knowing this, we want to cut 3 strips along my width of fabric that are 2 and a half inches wide each to have enough binding for the quilt.

Now that we know how much fabric we need, we’ve gone and cut the strips to the measurements required. Next we need to sew these strips together into one long binding. To do that, we need to trim both ends of the strip to a 45 degree angle, which can be measured on the quilting ruler. Make sure they’re both trimmed facing the same direction.

Take the ends of two different strips and place them right sides together, diagonal ends matched up, and pin them together. However, if you line up the corners perfectly and are using a quarter in seam allowance, you will notice that the pieces will end up a quarter inch off.

So you will need to offset the pieces by a quarter inch when you pin them together so that after it’s sewn, your pieces will line up perfectly.

Because the thread we’re using is so fine, we’ll set the stitch length to 1.80. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the pieces together.

Do this for the rest of your strips until all the pieces are sewn into one long strip.

You can leave the end of the last strip squared off.

Turn the binding strips wrong sides together and press to crease it together, creating the double fold binding. However if you feel confident and don’t want to spend time pre-creasing your binding, you can fold it by hand as you sew along.

Now we’re going to open the binding up on one end and fold it over into a diagonal line so the touching edges are straight. Press the fold to create a crease. We’re now ready to start sewing it on!

We’re going to start by stitching down the end that has the diagonally folded edge. Lay the binding out completely open on the back side of the quilt, starting with the end you made the diagonal fold. We prefer to position it around the middle of the quilt on one of the long sides.

Match the edge of the binding with the edge of the quilt. Stitch it on a ¼” seam allowance using your walking foot and sew to a little bit after the raw edge of the fabric.

Snip your threads and take your quilt out of the machine. Now we’re going to fold over the binding back in half. Move your quilt about three to four inches down from where your stitching ended and start stitching your double fold binding down also with a ¼” seam allowance. That gap will create a nice pocket to tuck the tail into when you come back around.

At the corner of the quilt, we’re going to place a pin right where the quilt ends so we know where it is. Exactly ¼ of an inch away from the pin, we’re going to stop sewing. Back stitch to make sure your stitching doesn’t come out and take the quilt out of the machine.

Finger press the binding into a right angle. Then fold it back down over itself to form a tidy corner like so. Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of the quilt. We’ll use a pin to keep it from shifting.

Put the quilt back in the machine and continue sewing at a ¼” seam allowance down the next edge. Continue doing this for the rest of the quilt.

Now we’ve come back around to where we first started. We can now join the strips together. Since we have a lot of extra binding, we’ll need to trim some off, making sure that there’s still enough to completely fit inside the pocket we made, otherwise there will be a hole in the binding.

Tuck the trimmed end into the open pocket we made earlier with the diagonal piece folded around on top. Holding it place with your fingers, continue sewing down until you reach the starting stitches. Trim your threads and now you can see the binding is completely stitched to the back side of the quilt.

We can now focus on sewing the binding to the front of the quilt. Fold the binding around to the front and use the quilting clips to hold them in place.

Just like on the other side, sew down with a ¼” seam allowance. You can start closer to the corner this time to hide your backstitch.

When you reach a corner, fold the next edge over to make a crisp diagonal mitered line and sew over it. Keep the needle down and pivot the quilt to the next edge, keeping in mind to stay at a ¼” seam allowance.

Continue sewing all around the quilt until you finish stitching it all down. There will be a small gap left where you started and ended your binding. If you wish, you can hand sew this down, however it’s up to you as we find that it doesn’t cause a problem to leave it like this.

And there we have it! One beautifully bound quilt.

We hope this tutorial made it easier for you to bind your next quilt! Let us know in the comments if you learned something new.

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué Using Iron Fusible Thread (FREE Pattern Included!)

Raw edge appliqué is a simple, fast, and easy way to appliqué your pieces together because it doesn’t require any extra steps. The most common way to sew raw edge appliqué is to use fusible stabilizer, however this can leave your appliqué looking and feeling stiff. In this video, we’ll show you how to sew raw edge appliqué using iron fusible thread, as well as some tips and tools to make it easier. Included is a free pattern to practice with or turn into your own unique project!

Trace your appliqué shapes onto the fabric using a temporary pen or piece of chalk and cut them out. We always recommend using batik fabric for raw edge appliqué because the fabric is less prone to fraying. If your shapes are more complex, or have a lot of angles in them, we suggest using a smaller, sharp pair of scissors to do your cutting with as it makes it much easier to do.

We’re going to load the machine with two different threads. In the top is a temporary regular sewing thread that will be pulled out later. However, in the bobbin we’ll be winding this thread called Iron ‘n Fuse. This is an iron fusible thread that will fuse the appliqué pieces to the fabric.

If you have appliqué pieces that have smaller shapes, you can add an optional layer of water soluble stabilizer underneath to make it easier to sew on the machine. You don’t need to cut it out to match the shape of your appliqué perfectly, just cut out a rough shape that your appliqué will easily fit over.

Increase your machine’s stitch length slightly to make it easier to pull the top thread out later. Sew all the way around your appliqué piece.

Position your appliqué on your project and press with high heat. The best part about using Iron ‘n Fuse thread is that it can still be lifted and repositioned as needed. It won’t fuse permanently to your project. Once your appliqué is in place, you can pull out the top thread.

To stitch your appliqué down permanently, you can use any variety of threads depending on the look you wish to achieve. The choice is yours, however for my appliqué I’ll be using this 50wt variegated cotton called Tutti. I love this thread because it’s been double gassed so it has a clean, ultra low lint finish, and the colour changes on the thread are quicker.

Sew around your appliqué about 1/8th of an inch away from the edge. If you want to make a bolder outline on your appliqué, you can go around again a second time. Raw edge appliqué tends to have a scrappy look, so don’t worry about making your lines perfectly aligned with each other.

Alternatively, you can hide the raw edge of the appliqué by selecting a satin stitch on your machine and sewing over the edge to cover it. We chose to stitch a bold outline around the appliqué pieces using this thicker 12wt thread called Spagetti. Like Tutti, it’s also a low lint cotton, but this thicker thread is a great way to add emphasis or an outline to a motif in your project.

After you’re finished permanently stitching your pieces down, don’t forget to wash your project to remove the water soluble stabilizer, if you chose to use it. No matter which creative way you choose to finish your raw edge appliqué project, this method is a fool-proof way to reduce the stiffness of an iron-on stabilizer often used in this technique.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

7 Ways to Use a Sashiko Machine

Sashiko is a hand technique originating from Japan that uses a simple running stitch, however this machine replicates the look of a running stitch done by hand. This amazing machine can do all sorts of things with this one simple stitch, however they can be a little pricey to buy. We’ve compiled 8 techniques you can easily do yourself on the sashiko machine so you know how to use every advantage it brings.

The sashiko machine ensures stitches are uniform and consistent, making it easier and faster to accomplish your project. It only has one kind of stitch and threads differently from a regular sewing machine because it only uses the bobbin thread and no top thread.

Traditionally sashiko is done with white cotton thread on indigo dyed fabric, however you can choose any colour of thread and fabric you want. With a sashiko machine, you can even do more than just decorative stitching!

You’ll want to choose a medium weight thread as the sashiko machine will double up the stitches. So if you have too heavy a thread, you’ll end up with shredding and stitch consistency problems. I’ll be demoing with two threads. The first is a 35wt thread called Silco. This is a synthetic cotton thread that’s completely lint free. The second is Konfetti, a 50wt Egyptian cotton thread.

1. Quilting:
If you love the look of hand quilting but don’t have the time or patience to quilt an entire quilt by hand, you can do it with the sashiko machine instead. This is also a great solution for anyone with arthritis in their hands. The sashiko machine gives you the look of hand quilting, but at ten times the speed!

2. Appliqué:
You can use the sashiko machine for raw edge appliqué. This is a simple but beautiful way to appliqué your pieces down with a simple running stitch and combines the traditional look of sashiko with your appliqué project.

3. Adding trims:
The sashiko machine is perfect for quickly adding trims to clothing or home décor items, with the advantage of giving it the hand stitched look. I like to add it to sleeve cuffs, collars, bags, or pillows.

4.Couching:
It’s really easy to do couching without the need for a couching foot like a regular sewing machine requires, however it will look a little different. Place the ribbon or yarn you want to couch down horizontally across the needle and take one or two stitches, then pull it over to the other side of the needle and take another stitch or two. Continue this process to finish couching it down!

5. Braiding:
Another method of couching with the sashiko machine that creates a different look is by braiding two threads back and forth in front of the needle. Take your yarn or ribbon and place the center of it in front of the needle so you’re holding both of the ends in your fingers. Take one or two stitches to secure it, then weave both ends opposite across the front of the needle and take another one or two stitches. Continue doing this and you’ll end up with a woven couched thread.

6. Fabric flower:
Using organza or another similar lightweight fabric, you can create a flower by scrunching up the fabric and stitching over it so that the edges flare up. Take a piece of fabric, about 5 inches wide and 25 inches long, depending on how large you want the flower to be. Position it along the centre of the fabric and push it up against the needle before taking a few stitches. Continue doing this while slowly turning the fabric clockwise. You’ll end up with a beautiful fabric flower that’s perfect for decorating a birthday party, or upcoming baby or wedding shower!

7. Pleats:
You can easily add a decorative pleat on a piece of clothing or home décor item using the sashiko machine. Position your fabric where you want the pleat to fall from and push the fabric up against the needle. Take a few stitches to secure it and continue to press and stitch as you sew straight down. The result is a beautiful gathered pleat.

There’s so many creative ways to use the sashiko machine, so please tell us what you’ve made in the comments below! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Choose the Right Machine Needle

Due to the variety of fabrics and threads available on the market, needle manufacturers have quite a selection to choose from. Every needle has its own purpose, but how do you know which is the best one to use for your project? We’ll walk you through the different categories of needles, the anatomy of a needle, and when to choose a certain type of needle. We’ll be focusing on domestic sewing machine needles as these are the most widely used.

Part 1: The Anatomy of a Needle

Every needle is made up of roughly the same parts. On the front of the needle, you’ll see the point of the needle that pierces the fabric. Above that is the eye which the top thread runs through, and the groove which runs all along the shaft of the needle. This groove allows the thread to be nestled inside, protecting it as the needle runs through the material and keeping it out of the way so it can glide through the material without protruding, thus creating smooth and even stitches.

Above the shaft is the shank which is the part of the needle that is held by the machine. The shaft of most domestic sewing machine needles usually have a rounded front face and a flat back side to make it easy for insertion. At the top of the shaft is the butt which is the part that is inserted into the machine. The shoulder is the section between the shank and shaft. This is where most needle brands will add a strip of colour indicating the type of needle it is.

On the back side of the needle you will find the scarf, an indentation that makes it easier for the bobbin thread to grab the top thread and create a stitch. The length of the scarf will vary depending on the type of needle.

Part 2: Needle Sizing System

There are two ways to measure needle size, the American and European systems. Both are usually indicated on the packaging of the needle. American sizes usually range from 8 to 19, while European sizes range from 60 to 120. For example, the sizing on this Schmetz needle case indicates the European size on the left and the American size on the right. So a 90/14 needle means it’s a 90 in the European size and 14 in the American size. The larger the number, the larger the needle.

You will want to pair a smaller size needle with a finer thread and a larger needle with a larger thread. Using too large of a needle will cause the thread to sit in a hole too large for it, which can look ugly. And a needle that’s too small for the thread will cause excess friction from the thread pulling through too small of a hole in the fabric and won’t fit well in the eye of the needle, which will lead to thread breaks.

Part 3: Types of Needles

Universal Needles

Universal needles are intended for all-purpose sewing. It is recommended to use a universal needle for woven fabrics as it is designed with rounded edges and a tapered point, meaning the needle isn’t so sharp that it will shred the fabric. The shape of the needle allows it to slip through woven fabrics easily rather than cutting through it which can wreck the fabric.

Super Non-Stick Universal Needles

A popular new needle on the market is a super non-stick needle. These universal needles are coated with a super non-stick coating like the kind you’d find on a Teflon pan. This coating allows the needle to glide through tacky materials like stabilizer, which makes a huge difference in improving the stitch quality and consistency and preventing thread breaks.

Ballpoint/Jersey Needles

Similar to universal needles, a ballpoint or jersey needle has rounded edges to avoid cutting the fabric. However, it differs in that it carries a much more blunted point in comparison to the universal, allowing it to slide between the weave of the fabric and preventing holes or runs in the knit fibres. It is best used for close knit fabrics such as jersey or interlock fabrics.

Embroidery Needles

Because machine embroidery involves a lot of high-speed stitching in a dense area, embroidery needles offer a larger, elongated eye that helps protect the thread, preventing it from breaking. The scarf is also specially shaped to prevent thread breaks and keep a consistent stitch quality at high-speed.

Topstitching Needles

Topstitching needles are designed with an extra-large eye and sharper point, allowing it to accommodate larger decorative top threads. Other specialty threads that are usually considered less strong, such as metallic threads, should also be used with this needle as the larger eye allows the thread the flexibility to move around more, preventing thread breaks.

Metallic Needles

These needles are similar to an embroidery needle in that they are designed with a larger polished eye and scarf to prevent the thread from shredding. These needles are intended for metallic threads.

Quilting Needles

Quilting needles are designed with an extra-long shaft and tapered point made to penetrate several layers of fabric and batting. Its slightly rounded point prevents damage to the multiple layers of material and keeps the thread from shredding.

Microtex/Sharps Needles

These needles are more slender and much sharper than most needles. They are designed to penetrate finely woven, delicate or microfibre fabrics, or for doing appliqué or quilting with fine threads.

Denim/Jeans Needles

Denim and similarly thick cotton fabrics like canvas may cause problems with other needles due to the heavy material the needle must sew through. This needle is designed with an extra strong and sharp tip, as well as a slender eye that aids the thread in gliding through the thick material and preventing skipped stitches.

Leather Needles

Designed for heavy and dense materials such as leather, artificial leather, and thick non-woven materials such as vinyl. Leather needles have a distinct triangular shape made to penetrate through these materials with a clean, large hole.

These are just some of the most common domestic sewing machine needles on the market. Let us know in the comments if you learned something new from this video or tell us about a sewing needle you can’t live without. 

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper With a Regular Zipper Foot

Do you want to elevate your sewing projects for a more refined and professional look? One way to do so is by sewing invisible zippers! Invisible zippers are the perfect way to give your projects a seamless transition by hiding the zipper in a seam. All you need is your garment, invisible zipper, regular zipper and presser foot, fabric marker, pins and a ruler.

Before we begin, let’s look at the differences between an invisible zipper foot and regular zipper foot.

To compare, both feet have very different designs, sewing steps, and ease of use. For the invisible zipper foot, there will be two grooves in the middle of the foot. This allows for a centered stitching line. (Keep in mind that you may need to also adjust your machine’s needle position if you use it).

On the other hand, the regular zipper foot has left and right notches to allow you to stitch closer to the edge of your project. Many machines do not come with an invisible zipper foot, so in this tutorial, we’ll show you how to do it with just a regular zipper foot.

Take the fabric or project you will be working on and lay it out, pulling it smooth. Iron the fabric area if necessary. Using fabric markers or pins, mark the top edges at your desired allowance where you want your zipper to be. For this tutorial, we will do a 3/4” edge. This step can be optional however, it certainly helps to indicate your zipper placement to ensure that you have aligned the pieces precisely. Next, you will mark your desired vertical seam allowance, we will be using a ¼” seam allowance.

Before you start sewing, we need to prepare your zipper to ensure it lays flat and sews well. Take your iron and set it to the lowest heat setting. Unzip your zipper, then press and iron the zipper teeth away from the zipper tape. During this step you should lift the iron periodically to avoid melting your zipper teeth or coils.

It is good to note that the following steps will be entirely different if you use an invisible zipper foot. When using a regular zipper foot, your zipper and fabric will be sewn right sides together onto the fabric. Remember to make sure your zipper is unzipped to the end/bottom stopper for this step. Then place down the right side of your zipper onto the fabric right side. Line up the zipper coils at the exact line where you’ve marked your seam allowance, pin into place.

Now you are ready to sew your zipper, but what thread should you use? For light to medium garments, we highly recommend using an 80wt thread called DecoBob on the top and bottom. This is a very fine cottonized polyester thread that will really blend into the fabric and not add any extra bulk to the seams, so your invisible zipper will look clean and tidy. I’ll also be pairing it with a size 80/12 needle.

Position the zipper teeth under the foot’s left groove and begin sewing down from the top edge. Make sure to reverse stitch and forward to keep in place. Keep stitching until you’ve reached the point where your needle is parallel to your zipper stopper. Reverse and forward at the end to keep it in place and remove from the sewing machine.

Before sewing the other side of the zipper, flip your entire project so that your sewn side lays on top of the unsewn piece. Make sure the zipper edge is lined up with the seam allowance line at the top and side, and pin into place.

Now sew the zipper to the other side of your fabric piece and repeat the steps as before. Remember to make sure your zipper coils are lying flat, then position the zipper teeth under the right groove of the foot. Sew from the top edge and stitch into place until you’re parallel to the zipper stopper. Stitch in reverse and forward in place to make sure it’s held in place.

Now that you have completed your main stitches, we need to finish off the seams below your zipper. Pull the zipper all the way closed and place the right sides of your fabric together. Adjust the zipper tail ends so it is out of the way, then place your foot as close as possible to your stitched line, then sew an additional 2 inches.

The last step you’ll need to do to complete your invisible zipper is finishing off the seam. For this you’ll just need to remove the zipper foot and install your regular presser foot. Sew your fabrics together by following your previously stitched line, and voila! You just learned and completed a proper invisible zipper.

Regular machine foot

Take a moment to tack the ends of the zipper tape to the seam allowance to make it easier to pull your zipper.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

5 Simple Sewing Tips for Your Sewing Room

Sometimes it’s those simple things that can make your sewing room run more efficiently. Here’s 5 easy time-saving solutions that everyone can keep in mind to improve their sewing, all while working smarter, not harder!

1. When you are cutting several of the same size blocks, place a piece of masking tape on the ruler along the exact measurement. This way you can easily find the measurement each time and make your cutting a lot more efficient.

2. (This applies if you don’t have a built in needle threader.) When threading your sewing machine needle, hold a piece of white fabric or batting behind the needle so you can see the hole better. This will help you see where the hole is and make it easier and faster to thread your needle.

3. Heavy weight threads like our 8wt Razzle or Dazzle can be hard to thread in your hand sewing needle. Here's a handy tip! Take a strand of finer thread, like an 80 or 60wt, and tuck it part way through the eye in a loop. Run the larger 8wt strand through this loop and pull it straight through. Threading a heavy thread has never been this easy!

4. If you have trouble sewing a straight line, try placing a piece of painters tape or removable masking tape on the line where you want to sew. This will act as a guide to position your fabric and make it easier to sew a straight line.

5. When cleaning off your cutting mat, try using a piece of scrap batting to wipe across the surface your mat. The batting will catch all the thread strands and fabric bits and will clean faster than trying to pick up each individual piece.

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