Introducing FabuLux 40wt Trilobal Polyester Thread

When you want to add something a little extra special to your quilting, FabuLux knows how to bring that shine and color you’ve been looking for. This dazzling 40wt thread is made from trilobal polyester. Most threads are round in shape, but a trilobal polyester thread is actually triangular in shape. This allows the thread to reflect more light off its surface, giving your stitching a soft shine and lustre. It’s one of the many things that makes FabuLux unique.

Not only will this thread stand out more as a result, but it also comes in 5 solid neon colors. Don’t be intimidated, neon actually looks stunning when it’s sewn out, and it’s perfect for making your quilting stand out whether you choose to use it on contrasting fabric, or pair it with like colors for a more subtle look.

FabuLux’s remaining 35 of the total 40 colors are all variegated, with some more subtle tone-on-tone options, and a few others that really want to scream for your attention. Variegated threads are perfect for matching all the colors in your quilt blocks, so you can easily quilt edge to edge without worrying about needing to frequently change your thread colors.

This gorgeous thread is perfect for sewing on longarms, midarms, and regular home sewing machines, and comes in two sizes at 766yds and 3000yd cones. But it isn’t just a favorite for quilting. You can use FabuLux for outlining designs, decorative sewing, and even in the embroidery machine.

One of our favorite things about this thread is that it’s basically lintless. FabuLux has a beautifully clean finish that won’t add a lot of lint build up in your machines. Afterall, there’s no point in spending thousands of dollars on a well-tuned sewing machine, only to gunk it up with lint. And because FabuLux is also extremely strong while also being incredibly soft to the touch, your bed quilts will never have felt, or looked, better.

If you’re inspired to sew with FabuLux, head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Metallic Embroidered Tie Tutorial (Free Embroidery Pattern Included!)

If you’re looking for that perfect gift for the father, husband, or friend in your life, this personalized embroidered tie will make a statement in any board room. We’ve even included 3 free digitized embroidery designs for you to download! All you need to do is choose your thread colours and add initials.

We have included 3 totally free digitized designs for you to download: a game controller, a fish and a bug. You can choose which you’d like to download and in what file type by clicking here. We are showing the finished product with a personalized monogram, but we leave these for you to add, so you can have the right initials.

We have chosen to use a purchased black tie as the backdrop for our embroidery. You can choose any color, but a solid color will show off the design better. To fit the included designs, the tie must be at least 2 inches wide at the point where you want your design to sit.

We have decided to stitch out the design in WonderFil’s metallic thread, Spotlite. Spotlite is a 40 wt metallic with a rayon core. Since rayon has no stretch, the core won’t stretch as a polyester or nylon core might. That stretching can cause the metallic wrap to separate, which causes the shredding and breaking that sometimes happens with metallic threads. Since the rayon core in Spotlite doesn’t stretch, that is less likely to happen, so you will have trouble free embroidery stitches, and a soft finish to the design.

We will be pairing the Spotlite with our 80wt DecoBob in the bobbin. Even very dense stitching stays soft when you have a fine bobbin thread and the evenly wound prewound bobbins will also ensure that you have no tension issues as you stitch out your design. As always, we will be using a Thread Tamer and a WonderGuard to tame the curl in the metallic thread, and a large eye 90/14 topstitch needle. As you will be using a sticky stabilizer to stabilize the tie, you can also use a universal super nonstick needle as another option. See our video on stitching trouble free with metallic thread without the headache to learn our tricks on sewing with metallic thread.

To begin, we will hoop this sticky stabilizer, paper side up, in the hoop. We are going to lightly score the paper around the edge of the hoop with a pin, and from corner to corner, so we can easily pull the paper away. Mark the center so you can easily place your tie on the right spot.

Decide where you want the center of your design to sit on the tie and mark the spot with some tailor’s chalk. With a stitch ripper, open up the back of the tie for at least 6”, so your tie can sit flat and open on the stabilizer. Using your hoop grid, place the tie centered on the hoop and smooth and press it in place so it sits flat and even.

Download the digitized design you prefer, in the format appropriate for your embroidery machine. If you choose, add the text or monogram from your machine’s text to the design before proceeding. Thread your machine with Spotlite in the first color, with a Decobob prewound bobbin in the bottom. Stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated. We have included the color numbers of Spotlite we used for our designs.

When your stitchout is complete, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and trim away on the underside of the tie. Trim all the threads, then using a hand needle and DecoBob, hand stitch the back of the tie closed again.

And there you have it. The man in your life will be proud to wear this fun, customized tie, and it is sure to be a conversation starter!

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Hand Stitched Buttonholes Tutorial

With all the beautiful machine buttonhole stitches out there right now, why bother making hand stitched buttonholes? Sometimes, you want to add a beautiful vintage look to your project. Or you might be working with a very heavy coat fabric and are struggling to get nice machine buttonholes. Or maybe you just want to add that extra special look to a project.

Handstitching your buttonholes can add a vintage look to your finished project, and choosing the right threads will give it a professional polish that will make it worth the extra effort. We’ll show you step by step how to mark, stitch, and cut your buttonholes for perfect results each time.

We are going to use this extra fine 100wt thread, InvisaFil, to stitch together the edges of our buttonhole. As the thread will be sitting under the decorative stitches, we don’t want it to show or add any bulk. Invisafil is a 100 wt polyester, so, while it is strong, the stitches will disappear in the fabric and won’t be seen.

We will also need a gimp thread to add extra strength and a bit of lift to our buttonhole. For this we will be using HomeDec. HomeDec is a very strong polyester thread that comes in three weights (30wt, 40wt, 60wt). We will be using the heaviest 40wt for this project, in a color to match the fabric.

For our decorative buttonhole stitch, we will use this 12wt double gassed cotton thread called Spagetti. The tight twist will make stitching easy, and the 12 weight thread gives a nice bold finish to the buttonhole.

We will need two hand stitching needles. For the fine InvisaFil thread, we’ll be using a #11 sharp needle. And for stitching with the heavier Spagetti, we will use a #7 embroidery needle which has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.

Using a spacing tool and some tailors chalk, evenly mark the starting point of each of your buttonholes.

As buttons all have different depths, here is a trick to mark the length of your buttonhole. Wrap your chosen button with a piece of twill tape, going around the fullest part of the button. Pin the ends of the twill tape.

Now pull out the button and lay the tape flat. The distance from the pin to the folded edge will be the length of your buttonhole.

Measure this length and mark the end of each buttonhole. Use a straight edge and some chalk to mark the buttonhole line.

Using a buttonhole cutting tool like this one by Clover, cut along this line. Cut and finish only one buttonhole at a time.

Thread a #11 sharp needle with InvisiFil, tying an overhand knot right behind the eye of the needle to prevent it from unthreading. Now begin to do a close whipstitch all along the open edge of your buttonhole, to hold the layers together.

Next, thread a #7 embroidery needle with a length of the Spagetti. Now, cut a length of the HomeDec thread twice the length of the buttonhole plus another 1 inch. (We’re using a bright, contrasting color in this demonstration so you can see it, but if you do it yourself, you should choose a thread color that matches the fabric). Hold or tape the gimp thread along the cut edge of the buttonhole. Starting at the back end of the buttonhole begin working a buttonhole stitch along the edge, catching the gimp thread underneath your stitch.

Work the buttonhole stitches close together to for a nice pearl edge along the cut edge of the buttonhole. When you get to the front end of the buttonhole work 3 or four stitches around the curve, before going back down the other side of the buttonhole, making sure to still catch the gimp thread underneath.

When you are back at your starting point, work a tack stitch of 3 to 4 stitches across the width of the buttonhole.  Pull your thread to the underside and thread the end through the under side of your stitches before trimming it off. Thread the gimp thread through the large eye needle thread it to the underside, and cut it off. Repeat this for all of your buttonholes.

That is all there is to it. While this is a bit time consuming, it will definitely add a special touch to your project. Pictured below is a finished buttonhole with a gimp thread that matches the color of the fabric.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Introducing Spotlite™ 40wt Rayon Core Metallic Thread

Metallic threads are a gorgeous choice for any decorative stitching, machine embroidery, or decorative quilting. They shine in a way no other thread can. But many people struggle to use metallic threads because they can be a little more fickle to sew with than others. Let’s take a closer look at WonderFil’s 40wt metallic thread called Spotlite and what makes this special thread stand out.

Metallic threads are designed with a thin metallic foil wrapped around a core made of another material. Many thread manufacturers will use polyester for the core because polyester is a strong, durable material. However, polyester also tends to carry a stretch to it. As the thread passes through the thread path in the machine and around all those bends, it can stretch around those bends, causing thread breaks. Stronger doesn’t always equal better in this case.

This is why WonderFil takes a different approach and uses rayon for the metallic thread’s core. Rayon carries zero stretch to it, meaning it won’t stretch around the bends in a machine’s thread path. This leads to fewer thread breaks and shredding, as well as a higher stitch quality.

We always recommend choosing a quality metallic thread as not all metallic threads are made equally. The quality of the thread you use will directly impact how easy it is to sew with, which is especially noticeable when using a metallic thread.

So, what can you use metallic threads for? The possibilities are truly endless. Because of metallic’s beautiful sheen, you can achieve a look and texture not possible with any other kind of thread. Even a single stitch of metallic can add a pop of sparkle to your quilts. Should you choose to quilt with metallic thread, we recommend using it only for art quilts, wall hung quilts, or small areas of decorative stitching on bed quilts, as metallic thread doesn’t have the same strength as regular quilting threads.

Quilting with Spotlite™ 40wt rayon core metallic.

Denser stitching such as thread painting will really show off the iridescent beauty of Spotlite thread. Artist Teri Cherne stitched layers of Spotlite to create this stunning thread painted piece. You can also use it in the embroidery machine for a beautiful metallic look to your embroidery designs. This thread is an exceptional choice for freestanding lace patterns, and you can easily and quickly make freestanding lace ornaments for the holidays.

For best results, always pair Spotlite thread with a super fine bobbin thread like DecoBob 80wt cottonized polyester. This fine thread plays nice with any top thread, which makes a big difference in the stitch quality of a metallic thread. It will also further reduce thread breaks and shredding, and prevent tension changes.

You should also ensure you’re using the right needle for this thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle, or a 90/14 metallic needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye, giving the metallic thread more space to move around and preventing the thread from shredding. Metallic needles are designed to shield the thread as it passes through the fabric, which also prevents shredding. Both needles are a good choice when using this thread. You can also use Spotlite on the longarm machine with a size 16 needle.

While metallic threads aren’t usually recommended for hand sewing, you can get away with it if you cut shorter strands. Choose a sharps needle with an eye large enough to fit the thread and only cut strands no longer than 18 inches long, or you may end up with tangling issues.

You can choose from a range of 40 different colours with Spotlite. Or pick up a Spotlite tube which includes 4 coordinated colours, as well as a free sheet of Wonder Guard.

If you haven’t used a Wonder Guard before, this handy little thread guard is a must for metallic threads. Simply wrap it around the spool, snugly but not too tightly, and you can actually sew with it on.

If you’ve used metallic threads before, you’ll notice they tend to have a curl to them, or a memory. This is the thread holding the shape of the spool it was wrapped around. A Wonder Guard will help pull those curls off the thread as the thread draws off the spool, preventing those curls from entering the machine and messing up your tension. They’re also perfect for storing the thread when you’re not using it!

For our guide on how to sew with metallic threads easily, don’t forget to check out our video, “How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)”.

Inspired to sew with Spotlite? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)

Ever tried sewing with metallic threads and struggled with breakages and tension problems? It doesn’t need to be that way because metallic thread technology has come a long way, and we’re here to share some easy tips on how to make these dazzling threads run through your machine like magic. Just follow these easy steps and you too can add metallic threads to your sewing arsenal!

We’re going to tackle something a lot of people have struggled with: sewing with metallic threads. These threads can be intimidating to some people who have had a bad experience with them in the past, and we’re here to tell you that doesn’t need to be the case. Keep these simple steps in mind and you’ll be stitching with metallics stress-free!

First off, not every metallic thread is made the same. You’ll always want to use a high quality metallic thread, which will make all the difference when sewing with it. A lot of companies use a polyester core in their metallic threads because they think polyester is stronger.

However, polyester will also stretch more, so when the thread runs through all those bends in the machine, it will pull and stretch and increase the likelihood of it breaking. A stretchy core also means that when the thread is stitched out, it will stretch away from the metallic foil wrapped on top, exposing a white core which will show in an ugly way in your stitching.

WonderFil uses a rayon core in its Spotlite metallic threads, which has no stretch to it, which greatly reduces the likelihood of it breaking. It also means the core won’t stretch away from the foil in your stitching, so your stitches will look the way it’s intended to.

Now one of the most important things to do when sewing with a metallic thread is to use the correct bobbin thread. We strongly recommend a lighter weight bobbin thread such as DecoBob 80wt, and you’ll want to choose something like this because it won’t fight for tension with the metallic in the top. A lighter bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread, and it will also greatly reduce the bulk in your stitching so your needle won’t be pushing through more material. This will make a huge difference when sewing with a metallic thread.

The next thing you’ll want to keep in mind is which needle you’re using. If you’re sewing on a domestic machine or embroidery machine, use a 90/14 topstitch needle or a 90/14 metallic needle. If you’re using it on a longarm, use a size 16 needle. Always make sure when starting a project that you have a new needle in your machine, as even a small burr in the eye or a dull needle can cause a lot of grief.

Now these next steps aren’t necessary to run a metallic thread, but they will make your life easier. Metallic threads tend to carry more memory, meaning they’ll curl up on themselves a little. If the thread enters your machine this way it can cause tangling and thread breakages. A thread stand like the Thread Tamer has an attachment with multiple slots at the top where you can weave your thread through, which will help pull those little knots and curls out before it has a chance to enter your machine.

If you do not own a thread stand with this attachment, you can put your thread in a large cup or bowl behind your machine, which will give the thread a chance to relax before it enters your machine. However, a thread stand will still do a better job of this. 

Finally, you can use a Wonder Guard thread guard to additionally help pull those little curls out of the metallic thread and keep it from sliding around the spool as it comes off. The Wonder Guard is a wrap that clings to itself, which you can place snugly but not tightly around the metallic spool. Unlike a thread net which clings tightly against the spool and can change your tension, the Wonder Guard will sit over top the thread so it won’t change the tension at all.

By following these few simple steps, you can use metallic threads to embellish any kind of project. These threads are stunning to look at, so add them to your sewing arsenal without the headache. 

We hope you were able to learn something from this video and can feel more confident and comfortable when working with metallic threads. If you still have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comment section below! Inspired to sew with Spotlite™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Patch Jeans Without a Sewing Machine

Have you got a pair of jeans that has a big hole in it? As trendy as that might look, sometimes you just want to close it back up again. I’ll share with you a super easy way to patch the tears in your jeans and you don’t even need a sewing machine! This is a great way to keep them out of the dump so you can keep wearing them for years to come.

Before starting, cut away any extra threads from the hole. Next, measure the size of the tear and cut out a piece from another piece of heavy fabric about an inch bigger on each size. The fabric can be another piece of denim or other thick material such as canvas. Pin it in place, making sure to space your pins slightly away from the hole.

Now you’ll need the thread. I’ll be using this medium 40wt thread called Designer. It’s a strong polyester so it will help hold up to heavy use, and it’s has some stretch to it, so it will flex with the fabric. It also comes in 210 colours, so choose one that best matches the colour of your pants.

Thread your needle and tie a knot on one end. Then place the smaller piece of fabric behind the hole so it’s fully covered. Take a stitch on one end of the hole so that the knot is hidden on the inside of the fabric. Then go across to the other side of the hole and make another small stitch, this time making sure to put the needle through second layer of fabric as well. Return back to the other side of the hole and take another stitch, going through both layers of fabric.

You’re going to continue sewing back and forth, each time pulling the hole closed until you reach the other side. Tie off your thread. Now turn your pants inside out and trim the extra reinforcement fabric by your stitching. Be careful not to cut into the stitching itself.

Once you finish taking your last stitch, you can tie off the thread and snip it close. Turn your garment right side out again and massage the fabric around where the hole used to be to help relax the fabric. You should also give it a quick press with steam to reduce the puckering.

We hoped this tutorial helped you save a pair of jeans! Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Designer 40wt All-Purpose Polyester Thread

When you need a thread you can count on, Designer knows how to get it done. This reliable 40wt all-purpose polyester is made for any general sewing, garment construction, and sergers. Strong and flexible with a soft texture, it’s practical for any everyday use.

Fashion designers and professional dress makers love this thread for its strength and versatility. When you’re constructing clothes, an all-purpose polyester like Designer is your best choice. Because the thread has a little bit of flexibility to it, the seams will move with your body. Afterall, no one wants to hear the dreaded “pop, pop, pop” of stitches breaking when you raise your arms. This is something that can happen when sewing clothes together using cotton thread instead of a flexible all-purpose polyester, as cotton has little to no stretch to it.

But Designer isn’t just limited to the needle. This is a fabulous serger thread that is perfect for finishing the raw edges of any project. Designer is both colorfast and safe to iron, even on high heat. And it can be safely used in washer and dryer machines without losing its strength and durability. We recommend a size 80/12 universal needle when sewing with Designer.

And the best part? Designer comes in a whopping 210 different colors. That means you’ll always be able to find the perfect color match to any project.

Reach for Designer the next time you need a reliable general sewing thread or want to sew your own garments at home. Afterall, what holds your projects together is one of the most important factors, even when you can’t see it.

Inspired to sew with Designer™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Rayon vs. Polyester – What’s the Difference?

Both rayon and polyester are an excellent choice depending on what you want to achieve in your project, but we’ll discuss when to choose one over the other as they both have their own unique qualities and benefits. We’ll discuss the finish, tactility, purpose, and additional factors to consider when sewing with each type.

WonderFil manufactures both rayon and polyester threads. We’ll be looking at the two with the most similar uses: Splendor™, a 40wt rayon, and Polyfast™, a 40wt trilobal polyester.

While rayon and polyester are used in many of the same techniques, they both have very different origins. Rayon is manufactured from wood pulp that is chemically dissolved and undergoes a multi-step process resulting in the soft, lustrous rayon fibres. Polyester on the other hand, is a synthetic material with long, stable fibres that gives it the strength it is best known for. It’s resistant to abrasion and many common household chemicals, including bleach, making it a reliable choice for almost any application.

Rayon is fairly universal in its appearance and finish, however polyester can come in many forms. You might come across terms such as “cottonized polyester”, “wooly poly”, “all-purpose polyester”, or “trilobal polyester”. While these are all polyester threads, they vary greatly from each other in terms of where they are used and how they appear. Trilobal polyester is the most comparable to rayon in appearance and use. Both materials are (usually) colourfast and safe to iron if it comes from a reputable manufacturer.

If you’d like to learn more about the different kinds of polyester thread out there, check out our other blog: Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them.

Let’s take a closer look at rayon. It has a natural gloss that carries across the stitching or embroidery. Whereas polyester has an artificial gloss where the light is more fractured in appearance.

Comparing their tactility, rayon is actually softer to the touch in comparison to polyester. This leaves your fabric more flexible if you were to densely stitch with it. Polyester is rougher to the touch compared to rayon, and leaves the fabric feeling stiffer when densely stitched.

So now that you’ve learned the characteristics of each thread, which thread material should you choose?

We don’t recommend using rayon if you require the project to endure abrasion, long periods of moisture or bleach/chemicals. This is because rayon is a material that weakens when exposed to moisture. Rayon will always make a beautiful impression wherever it’s sewn and is a popular choice for this reason. It’s a gorgeous choice when used for decorative purposes, such as appliqué or decorative quilting and not for holding quits together structurally, such as edge to edge quilting. Choose it for quilting small areas or appliqué on a bed quilt, or used in projects that won’t be subjected to a lot of washing and handling. For example, quilting wall-hung quilts or art quilts.

Polyester has resistance to bleach and can handle light bleaching. It can also handle abrasion, mildew, and most chemicals it encounters. However as it does have a tendency to feel less soft and smooth to the touch, and leaves fabric a little stiffer. This material also keeps its strength even when exposed to moisture and is a reliable thread to hold your projects together when used for construction. This makes it ideal for edge to edge quilting, piecing, or other structural purposes. You can also consider it if you plan on embroidery patches on a backpack or items exposed to the elements.

We hope this video helps you understand what to consider and create quality projects that will last! If you are unsure if a thread material will work for you, save your time and money by researching and being informed before you sew with it. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry these threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them

Have you ever noticed all the varieties of polyester thread on the market? While it all might be made from the same base material, polyester comes in all kinds of different treatments and finishes, giving them completely different uses and appearances. In this video we’ll go through a wide variety of polyester threads you’ll come across, as well as how you should use them and how they’ll look when stitched out.

Trilobal Polyester
Trilobal polyester is a gorgeous and shiny thread that loves to show off. The word “tri” in trilobal refers to the shape of the thread which is actually triangular in shape. The flat sides of the thread reflect light much better than a round thread does, making it a shinier thread that is meant to stand out.

Use trilobal polyester in the embroidery machine for gorgeous results. It’s also a popular quilting thread when you want your quilting to have a little pop of shine. Because this thread is made to stand out, it’s a great choice for outlining, thread painting, or appliquéing a design down, such as with a satin stitch.

WonderFil Trilobal Polyester Thread Lines:
- FabuLux™ 40wt (variegated & neon colors)
- Polyfast™ 40wt (solid colors)

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Monopoly or Monofilament Thread
This is a thread commonly used when you want to sew something without the thread showing. These threads usually come in clear or smoke and are semi-translucent to help them blend into the fabric. However due to the limited colour range of these threads, they can still be seen when sewn over contrasting patches in the fabric and under bright lights. They are also stiff and inflexible when sewn in the fabric, making it unideal for dense stitching, and are semi-reflective, showing up under bright lights. Many people use these threads for quilting, stitch in the ditch, appliqué, or couching.

WonderFil does not manufacture monopoly thread as we consider a lightweight cottonized polyester to perform the same techniques at a consistently higher quality.

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Cottonized Polyester
Cottonized polyester is particularly unique because it undergoes a special treatment to take out most of the shine from the thread. This treatment also removes the stretch from it, making it incredibly easy to sew with and making it ideal for piecing and quilting when stretch in the thread is unwanted. While it might be called a cottonized polyester, there is actually zero cotton in the thread. This 100% polyester material is simply called this due to its matte finish and lack of stretch, meaning it looks similar to and sews easily in the machine like a cotton does.

Finer cottonized polyester threads keep their strength even at such a small size, which does wonders for piecing, especially foundation paper piecing and English paper piecing as the thread takes up significantly less bulk in the fabric, allowing seams to lay incredibly flat. And because the thread carries more of a matte finish, it hides in the fabric very easily, blending into the colours behind it with ease. This makes it an ideal replacement for monopoly threads that have an inflexible plastic feel and can still be seen under bright lights.

Finer cottonized polyester threads are great for quilting when you just want the texture of the quilting to show and not the thread. It’s also perfect for stitch in the ditch, bobbin thread for any top weight thread, and can even be used in the embroidery machine with better results in digitized lace and highly detailed or shrunken designs. Cottonized polyester also comes in medium weights and is a hugely popular material for longarm and midarm quilting. This easy to sew thread is recommended for beginner quilters, or those that want a strong and reliable thread that can sew in multi-directions.

WonderFil Cottonized Polyester Thread Lines:
- InvisaFil™ 100wt
- DecoBob™ 80wt
- Master Quilter™ 40wt

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Wooly Poly
This fun thread is incredibly flexible, being able to stretch and shrink depending on if it’s relaxed or pulled taught. They’re designed to be used in the serger and its stretching properties make it universally adored for knits and stretch fabrics. Wooly poly thread is recommended for rolled hems, garments, dance wear, swim suits, fitness wear, napkins, and finishing the edges of stretch materials.

WonderFil Wooly Poly Thread Lines:
- SoftLoc™ tex 35

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Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread
Because polyester is such a strong and easy thread to sew with, it’s highly preferred by many sewists. However, what if you want to sew with the ease of a polyester thread, but prefer the look of cotton? Thread manufacturers have come up with thread that has a polyester core but is wrapped on the outside with cotton fibre. This hybrid thread combines both materials into an ideal sewing thread with the natural look and finish of cotton. These threads are most commonly used for quilting and general sewing, and are frequently used on longarm and midarm machines.

WonderFil Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread Lines:
- Ultima™ 40wt

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Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester
An enhanced multi-filament polyester is designed for ultra-strength, best used for heavy-duty sewing on thicker materials such as leather, pleather, vinyl, cork, and upholstery fabrics. You’ll want to choose this thread when you want to give your projects more durability, such as when sewing wallets, bags, purses, or home décor. In a thicker weight, it also provides a beautiful decorative stitch on your projects.

For best results, we recommend pairing any weight of an enhanced multi-filament polyester on the top with a 60wt of the same thread in the bobbin. Because this thread is so incredibly strong, it should be used with itself top and bottom, with the lighter 60wt in the bottom to help seams lay flatter and promote better machine tension for higher quality stitches.

WonderFil Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester Thread Lines:
- HomeDec™ 30wt, 40wt, 60wt

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All-Purpose Polyester
This is the most generic and one of the most commonly found polyesters. It isn’t made to be used to show off, but rather behind the scenes in constructing garments, dresses and wedding gowns, and in sergers. This thread carries a little bit of stretch to it, which is great for clothing, as it has a little more give in the seams. No one wants to hear the dreaded “pop-popping” of stitches being snapped out. An all-purpose polyester tends to be lower in cost, versatile, and can be used for any general sewing.

WonderFil All-Purpose Polyester Thread Lines:
- Designer™ 40wt

Tell us how you like to use polyester threads in your own projects, or share something you made with us using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.

How to Sew Heavy Specialty Fabrics (Leather, Vinyl, Cork)

If you’re working on a project that requires a heavy material such as pleather, vinyl, or cork, don’t fret. While these materials might seem a little intimidating if you don’t have a lot of experience sewing with them, they only require a few simple adjustments. Simply using the right needle, thread, and understanding the material is all it takes to sew with these fabrics and easily as any other!

The tools you sew with can make a big difference. Consider swapping out your regular needle for a super non-stick universal needle. These needles have a coating on them that glide through the material and is especially useful if you have a tacky stabilizer underneath. If you’re sewing through a particularly heavy pleather or vinyl material, you can also switch to a leather needle. Leather needles are designed for piercing through these particularly resistant materials.

You can also change your presser foot for a non-stick or Teflon presser foot when sewing on pleather or vinyl. These materials can stick to the bottom of a regular presser foot, which impacts your stitch quality. These non-stick feet have a super slick surface that prevents that from happening.

Pictured: Non-stick sewing foot

If you don’t have a non-stick presser foot or they aren’t available for your machine model, you can also use a walking foot. These feet are designed to provide a second set of feed dogs from the top of the fabric, which helps push these specialty materials through.

Pictured: Walking foot

The thread that you sew with is also important to think about. Because cork, pleather and vinyl are much thicker, you’ll want to use a stronger thread to keep it together. Especially if the project you have in mind will require some durability. 

HomeDec™ is an enhanced polyester thread designed for extra strength. It comes in three weights: 30wt, 40wt, and 60wt. Because this thread is so strong, we don’t recommend using a normal bobbin thread with it. Always use the 60wt HomeDec™ in the bobbin with itself. The slightly lighter weight thread will help reduce the seam bulk, which is especially useful when dealing with thicker materials.

On your sewing machine, consider increasing the stitch length slightly. With pleather, vinyl, and cork, you’ll be piercing the material with permanent holes. Having the stitch length too low means the holes will be close together, causing damage to the material and compromise its durability. Since you’ll be sewing with an enhanced strength thread like HomeDec, the thread will easily compensate for holding together your seams even with the longer stitch length.

Because holes pierced through these materials are permanent, you won’t be able to use pins without leaving ugly holes behind. You can instead hold your pieces together using wonder clips. These will pinch your material together without needing to put holes in them.

But what about if you need to clip something that isn’t close to the edge, such as appliqué? Unfortunately, many pleather and vinyl materials will melt even on very low heat, making it impossible to use an iron-on appliqué. Take some scotch tape and tape over the appliqué piece so it doesn’t shift. You can then stitch through the tape and around the appliqué with a straight or decorative stitch to hold it down permanently. Afterwards pull away the bits of tape to clean it up.

Since you can’t use an iron on many pleather and vinyls, we recommend using a seam roller to help press your seams. This tool is a must for any material that can’t be ironed and is much more effective than simply finger pressing open a seam.

We hope these tips make it easier for you to sew with these heavier specialty fabrics! Let us know on on social media what project you’ll be sewing with pleather, vinyl, or cork. Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us!