Comparing Hand Embroidery Thread Weights: 12wt, #8, #5, #3

When doing hand embroidery, there are a number of thread weights to choose from. We’ll show you the difference between a 12wt, #8, #5 and #3 thread and how they show up differently in your stitches so you can choose the right look for your project. Choosing a variety of weights is the perfect way to give your hand embroidered project a unique look with different textures.

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The most common size of hand embroidery perle cotton is a #8. If you’re just starting out or doing any general hand embroidery, this is the recommended thread weight. It shows off beautifully with all the different varieties of stitches, and the thread will pull easily through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. With this thread you will want to use a size 3 milliners needle. Our line of perle cottons is called Eleganza™ and comes in #8, #5 and #3 sizes with Sue Spargo. Let’s take a look at the other two sizes.

#5 is a little thicker than the #8 but still thinner than the #3. Many people prefer using this size over the #8 because they like how it stands out a bit more and adds a little more emphasis to the stitching. With this size thread, we recommend using a milliners size 1 needle.

The #3 is the thickest weight of Eleganza perle cotton and its size is comparable to yarn. While this thick thread might give some stitchers pause, all of the Eleganza line of threads go through a treatment called double gassing, which removes almost all the lint from its surface. This gives it a silky smooth finish that pulls much easier through the fabric while making your stitches look clean and tidy. It’s great for adding outlining and emphasis to any hand sewing project. We recommend a size 15 milliners needle with this thread.

Finally, we have these 12wt threads called Spagetti™ and Fruitti™. Both of these threads are a long staple Egyptian cotton that has also been double gassed for a super low lint finish so your stitches will look clean and beautiful. A 12wt thread is comparable to a single strand of embroidery floss like what you would get when you split the strands. This is perfect for any small or fine detail stitching, or if you’re stitching on a fabric with a higher thread count.

These are just a few stitches to show you the difference thread weight can make in hand embroidery. Experiment with them yourself and show us what you stitched by tagging us on Facebook or Instagram! Facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil.

Comparing 100wt vs 40wt vs 12wt for Quilting

Did you know you can really change the look of your quilting simply by your choice of thread? We’ll compare the weight of three different thicknesses of thread when used for quilting so you can see how dramatic the difference is! This is a great way to achieve a new look in your quilted projects. 

InvisaFil™ 100wt: Blends very easily into your fabric so it can’t be seen. Awesome for keeping your quilts flexible even with dense stitching and showing just the texture of the quilting and not the thread.

Ultima™ 40wt: Your standard weight quilting thread. A strong and versatile medium weight thread that shows just a bit, and not too much.

Accent™ 12wt: A lusciously thick thread that loves to show off. This bold choice was made to stand out and make your quilting look juicy.

Here is a piece of fabric with the batting and backing layers included like you would have on a regular quilt. Before beginning, we’ll load the machine with a DecoBob™ prewound bobbin. These come already wound with an 80wt thread called DecoBob, This is an excellent bobbin thread because not only is it super strong, but it’s also super fine. This will greatly reduce the bulk in the quilting and also give a better tension, which will result in a better stitch quality. It’s also going to make a huge difference when sewing with the 12wt thread when we get there.

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Let’s start with the 100wt thread. This thread is called InvisaFil™, and it’s a super fine 100wt cottonized polyester. This is perfect for blending into your fabric so it won’t be seen, making it ideal for showing the texture of your quilting without showing the thread. It’s also awesome for keeping your quilts soft and flexible even when doing dense stitching because the thread doesn’t take up a lot of space in the fabric.

Because it blends in so well, you can really just get away with just using a light grey for bright colours, darker grey for darker colours, or a beige or brown for warmer tones. Matching the colour perfectly makes it nigh invisible. However, a contrasting colour will still give you a thin stitch that shows a little. InvisaFil™ 100wt thread is your perfect choice for dense quilting or wherever you don’t want the thread to show up.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

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Next let’s take a look at the 40wt thread. There are a ton of 40wt quilting threads on the market, but the one I’m using here is an interesting one. This is called Ultima™, and it’s actually a cotton wrapped poly. That means it has a strong polyester core that sews easily and reliable like a polyester thread, but it’s wrapped in cotton giving you the quilted look of cotton. This is actually one of the cleanest wrapped threads on the market, meaning it won’t give off a whole lot of lint.

You may already be familiar with how a 40wt thread looks when it’s stitched out. While it’s going to be more visible than the 100wt InvisaFil™, it still isn’t going to make a huge impact if you’re using basic colours or ones that match the fabric. Choosing a contrasting colour will stand out a lot more, however. This is going to be your standard, do-all thread for every type of quilting.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

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For our last thread comparison, we’re pulling out this chunky 12wt. 12wt is actually the thickest size thread you can safely fit through the eye of your sewing machine needle, so you will also need to use a slightly larger needle. I’ll be using a 90/14 topstitch needle because it has a larger eye for the thread to move around in.

This thread is called Accent™ and it’s really all about going bold. It’s actually a 100% rayon thread, so if you want to do any edge-to-edge quilting with a 12wt thread, I would instead recommend a 12wt cotton instead like Spagetti™. Rayon tends to weaken when exposed to water, so this thread is great for adding accents and doing decorative elements, or for wall hanging quilts and art quilts. 

This is a truly beautiful thread because it has a soft lustrous shine to it that catches the light. It’s perfect for any decorative quilting or outlining because of how bold it is. Your quilting will really stand out. Choosing a matching colour adds a beautiful subtle textural effect, while contrasting colours will really pop.

Matching colour

Contrasting colour

Looking at all the weights side-by-side, you can really see what a difference your choice of thread will make in your quilting. I hope this helps give you a better idea of what choices are out there, and what thread to choose for your next quilting project!

If you use these threads, don’t forget to tag us on facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil to show us your quilting creations!

Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them

Have you ever noticed all the varieties of polyester thread on the market? While it all might be made from the same base material, polyester comes in all kinds of different treatments and finishes, giving them completely different uses and appearances. In this video we’ll go through a wide variety of polyester threads you’ll come across, as well as how you should use them and how they’ll look when stitched out.

Trilobal Polyester
Trilobal polyester is a gorgeous and shiny thread that loves to show off. The word “tri” in trilobal refers to the shape of the thread which is actually triangular in shape. The flat sides of the thread reflect light much better than a round thread does, making it a shinier thread that is meant to stand out.

Use trilobal polyester in the embroidery machine for gorgeous results. It’s also a popular quilting thread when you want your quilting to have a little pop of shine. Because this thread is made to stand out, it’s a great choice for outlining, thread painting, or appliquéing a design down, such as with a satin stitch.

WonderFil Trilobal Polyester Thread Lines:
- FabuLux™ 40wt (variegated & neon colors)
- Polyfast™ 40wt (solid colors)

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Monopoly or Monofilament Thread
This is a thread commonly used when you want to sew something without the thread showing. These threads usually come in clear or smoke and are semi-translucent to help them blend into the fabric. However due to the limited colour range of these threads, they can still be seen when sewn over contrasting patches in the fabric and under bright lights. They are also stiff and inflexible when sewn in the fabric, making it unideal for dense stitching, and are semi-reflective, showing up under bright lights. Many people use these threads for quilting, stitch in the ditch, appliqué, or couching.

WonderFil does not manufacture monopoly thread as we consider a lightweight cottonized polyester to perform the same techniques at a consistently higher quality.

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Cottonized Polyester
Cottonized polyester is particularly unique because it undergoes a special treatment to take out most of the shine from the thread. This treatment also removes the stretch from it, making it incredibly easy to sew with and making it ideal for piecing and quilting when stretch in the thread is unwanted. While it might be called a cottonized polyester, there is actually zero cotton in the thread. This 100% polyester material is simply called this due to its matte finish and lack of stretch, meaning it looks similar to and sews easily in the machine like a cotton does.

Finer cottonized polyester threads keep their strength even at such a small size, which does wonders for piecing, especially foundation paper piecing and English paper piecing as the thread takes up significantly less bulk in the fabric, allowing seams to lay incredibly flat. And because the thread carries more of a matte finish, it hides in the fabric very easily, blending into the colours behind it with ease. This makes it an ideal replacement for monopoly threads that have an inflexible plastic feel and can still be seen under bright lights.

Finer cottonized polyester threads are great for quilting when you just want the texture of the quilting to show and not the thread. It’s also perfect for stitch in the ditch, bobbin thread for any top weight thread, and can even be used in the embroidery machine with better results in digitized lace and highly detailed or shrunken designs. Cottonized polyester also comes in medium weights and is a hugely popular material for longarm and midarm quilting. This easy to sew thread is recommended for beginner quilters, or those that want a strong and reliable thread that can sew in multi-directions.

WonderFil Cottonized Polyester Thread Lines:
- InvisaFil™ 100wt
- DecoBob™ 80wt
- Master Quilter™ 40wt

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Wooly Poly
This fun thread is incredibly flexible, being able to stretch and shrink depending on if it’s relaxed or pulled taught. They’re designed to be used in the serger and its stretching properties make it universally adored for knits and stretch fabrics. Wooly poly thread is recommended for rolled hems, garments, dance wear, swim suits, fitness wear, napkins, and finishing the edges of stretch materials.

WonderFil Wooly Poly Thread Lines:
- SoftLoc™ tex 35

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Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread
Because polyester is such a strong and easy thread to sew with, it’s highly preferred by many sewists. However, what if you want to sew with the ease of a polyester thread, but prefer the look of cotton? Thread manufacturers have come up with thread that has a polyester core but is wrapped on the outside with cotton fibre. This hybrid thread combines both materials into an ideal sewing thread with the natural look and finish of cotton. These threads are most commonly used for quilting and general sewing, and are frequently used on longarm and midarm machines.

WonderFil Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread Lines:
- Ultima™ 40wt

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Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester
An enhanced multi-filament polyester is designed for ultra-strength, best used for heavy-duty sewing on thicker materials such as leather, pleather, vinyl, cork, and upholstery fabrics. You’ll want to choose this thread when you want to give your projects more durability, such as when sewing wallets, bags, purses, or home décor. In a thicker weight, it also provides a beautiful decorative stitch on your projects.

For best results, we recommend pairing any weight of an enhanced multi-filament polyester on the top with a 60wt of the same thread in the bobbin. Because this thread is so incredibly strong, it should be used with itself top and bottom, with the lighter 60wt in the bottom to help seams lay flatter and promote better machine tension for higher quality stitches.

WonderFil Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester Thread Lines:
- HomeDec™ 30wt, 40wt, 60wt

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All-Purpose Polyester
This is the most generic and one of the most commonly found polyesters. It isn’t made to be used to show off, but rather behind the scenes in constructing garments, dresses and wedding gowns, and in sergers. This thread carries a little bit of stretch to it, which is great for clothing, as it has a little more give in the seams. No one wants to hear the dreaded “pop-popping” of stitches being snapped out. An all-purpose polyester tends to be lower in cost, versatile, and can be used for any general sewing.

WonderFil All-Purpose Polyester Thread Lines:
- Designer™ 40wt

Tell us how you like to use polyester threads in your own projects, or share something you made with us using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.