Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Eleganza Perle Cotton Thread

Perle cotton is one of those thread basics any hand stitcher can’t go without. So why not reach for the best? Eleganza is a gorgeous perle cotton thread that comes in an incredible 340 unique solid and variegated colours. With that kind of selection, you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing the colours for your next project.

One of the things that make Eleganza perle cotton unique is its tight twist. This 2 ply thread resists unravelling, making it easy and efficient to sew with, without worrying about tangling or untwisting. That’s not something anyone wants to think about while they’re focused on creating something beautiful. The thread has also undergone double gassing, which is a process where 80% of the thread lint is burnt off its surface. This process is repeated a second time, making this one of the cleanest and smoothest perle cottons on the market. You’ll have no trouble stitching with this thread through all kinds of fabrics and fibres.

200 of these shades are available in 100 solid and 100 variegated colours in the WonderFil collection. These little balls come in size #8 weight thread, the most popular thread weight for any kind of hand embellishment. They also come in 140 colours in the Sue Spargo collection. Designer, author, and teacher Sue Spargo has curated her own stunning collection of Eleganza threads, available in the Original and Primitive colour collections. You’ll find the #8 weight spools of Eleganza have double the amount of thread on them as the balls in the WonderFil collection.

You’ll also find these colours available in an additional #5 and #3 thread weights. #8 is marked by green spool tops, #5 is marked by purple, and #3 by blue. This makes it easy to tell which weight you’re using at a glance. These additional thread weights make it possible to create emphasis and texture, even when doing the same embellishment stitches. It truly opens up a whole new dimension of hand embroidery.

If you’re looking for the perfect needle to match these thread weights, Sue has made it incredibly simple. Sue Spargo brand needles are coloured to match the spool tops in her collection so you’ll know right away which needles pair with the thread size.

Eleganza is the perfect choice for any hand embroidery projects, big stitch hand quilting, sashiko, visible mending, and crafts. You can even use it in the machine for bobbin work and couching, or on the loopers of a serger for a beautiful decorative edging.

Inspired to stitch with Eleganza? Shop with Sue Spargo at www.suespargo.com, or find either collection in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com. And don’t forget to share what you make with it on social media using hashtag wonderfil. We’d love to be inspired by you!

Comparing Hand Embroidery Thread Weights: 12wt, #8, #5, #3

When doing hand embroidery, there are a number of thread weights to choose from. We’ll show you the difference between a 12wt, #8, #5 and #3 thread and how they show up differently in your stitches so you can choose the right look for your project. Choosing a variety of weights is the perfect way to give your hand embroidered project a unique look with different textures.

---

The most common size of hand embroidery perle cotton is a #8. If you’re just starting out or doing any general hand embroidery, this is the recommended thread weight. It shows off beautifully with all the different varieties of stitches, and the thread will pull easily through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. With this thread you will want to use a size 3 milliners needle. Our line of perle cottons is called Eleganza™ and comes in #8, #5 and #3 sizes with Sue Spargo. Let’s take a look at the other two sizes.

#5 is a little thicker than the #8 but still thinner than the #3. Many people prefer using this size over the #8 because they like how it stands out a bit more and adds a little more emphasis to the stitching. With this size thread, we recommend using a milliners size 1 needle.

The #3 is the thickest weight of Eleganza perle cotton and its size is comparable to yarn. While this thick thread might give some stitchers pause, all of the Eleganza line of threads go through a treatment called double gassing, which removes almost all the lint from its surface. This gives it a silky smooth finish that pulls much easier through the fabric while making your stitches look clean and tidy. It’s great for adding outlining and emphasis to any hand sewing project. We recommend a size 15 milliners needle with this thread.

Finally, we have these 12wt threads called Spagetti™ and Fruitti™. Both of these threads are a long staple Egyptian cotton that has also been double gassed for a super low lint finish so your stitches will look clean and beautiful. A 12wt thread is comparable to a single strand of embroidery floss like what you would get when you split the strands. This is perfect for any small or fine detail stitching, or if you’re stitching on a fabric with a higher thread count.

These are just a few stitches to show you the difference thread weight can make in hand embroidery. Experiment with them yourself and show us what you stitched by tagging us on Facebook or Instagram! Facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil.