10 Ways to Sew with Heavy 12wt Thread

Some sewers might be stumped on what to use 12wt thread for, afterall it isn’t your traditional medium sized thread. What a lot of people don’t realize is how beautiful, bold, and versatile this thicker thread can be, and what kind of effects you can create with it. We’ll also take a closer look at the different types of 12wt thread you can find and when you might want to choose one over the other.

1. Thread Painting

12wt threads are a fantastic choice for thread painting for a few reasons. Because the thread is thicker, you can actually cover more area with less thread, making it a lot more efficient to thread paint with a 12wt thread. In addition, you’ll also find that the thread sits a little higher from the fabric. This gives a bolder textural effect to your project than using a medium weight thread would.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

2. Cross Stitch

These threads are thick enough for cross stitching projects, especially when you want to use a fabric or fibre with a finer weave. In this project, we used Spagetti™ and Fruitti™ 12wt cotton threads, which pull smoothly through the fabric due to their ultra low lint finish.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

3. Machine Embroidery

40wt threads are the standard when it comes to machine embroidery, but you can create a new look by using 12wt thread in your embroidery machine. If you have a larger design, or a design that isn’t too intricate, a 12wt thread will show the pattern much more boldly without needing to double stitch the same lines. Your pattern will also show off better due to the thicker thread.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

4. Hand Embroidery

If you love doing hand embroidery and sometimes split the strands of embroidery thread to make a finer thread, we would caution you against this. Splitting the strands of a thicker thread can weaken the thread while also giving it a lintier look. Instead of doing this, try using a 12wt thread which is comparable in size to an 8wt thread that’s been split in two. This way you won’t damage the thread, and you’ll keep your stitches looking clean and beautiful.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

5. Decorative Stitching

The decorative stitches built into most sewing machines are perfect for utilizing 12wt threads for fun, stand-out stitches. They’re perfect for decorating any project, whether it’s a stocking for your family, adding a small decorative line of stitching to a piece of clothing, or embellishing any quilt or table runner. A 12wt thread will give every decorative stitch a little more emphasis than a regular medium weight thread would.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

6. Needle Punch

Needle punching is a tool that can be used to create incredible textural effects, and it works best with thicker threads like 12wt. Depending on how you use the tool, you can make either dense loops or weave back and forth to fill in a space. This is a fantastic way to add a unique look to any project.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

7. Big Stitch Hand Quilting

12wt is one of the best threads to use for big stitch hand quilting because the thick thread really stands out against the fabric. You’ll also find it easier to handle a 12wt thread versus a medium weight thread as it is less delicate and sits better in a wide running stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

8. Machine Quilting & Longarm Quilting

If you’re not afraid of bold stitches that love to show off, a 12wt thread is the perfect choice when used for quilting. 12wt is actually the thickest thread you can put through the eye of a machine needle, so you can guarantee a quilted look where the thread adds another dimension of texture and colour.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

9. Red Work

Red work is a form of American embroidery that traditionally uses red thread and basic stitches to decorate household items. It can be completed with a simple backstitch following a traced pattern to create motifs that can decorate anything from dishcloths to quilts to cushion covers. A 12wt thread stands out beautifully against white fabric, making it ideal for outlining patterns.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

10. Sashiko

Sashiko is a Japanese embroidery technique that uses a simple running stitch to create beautiful geometric patterns or imagery. Traditionally they use white thread on an indigo dyed fabric, but these days, you can use any colours you like. Sashiko can be done by hand using a running stitch and a long hand embroidery or sashiko needle. However, you can also purchase a sashiko machine which replicates the look of a hand stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

Tell us in the comments where you’ve used 12wt threads, or where you would like to try them in a project! You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

The Easiest Way to Hem a Pair of Jeans

Rather than rolling up your jeans or taking them to an expensive tailor, why not hem them yourself? This is one of those life skills that’s easy enough for anyone with a sewing machine to do themselves. Wearing jeans that are too long can wear away the denim around the heel in an ugly way. We’re here to show you our tried and true method of hemming jeans easily and quickly for a perfect fit. We’ll also show you our recommendation for notions that will give you the best look and results.

To begin, you’ll want to grab a piece of tailor’s chalk, preferably in white or another contrasting colour from your denim. Put on the pair of jeans that are too long and turn up the fabric under the wrong side of the pants until it’s at the desired length. We recommend doing this step while wearing shoes to ensure you take this extra height into consideration. It may help to have someone do this for you so you’re standing straight. Make a mark at the base of the fabric at the desired length using the tailor’s chalk.

Now measure the distance from the mark to the bottom of the original hem. You’ll want to mark the other leg at the same distance so they are the same length. Lay one of the legs flat and place a ruler straight against the line. Extend the line all the way down the fabric.

Holding the ruler in place against the line, you can flip over the pant leg over the ruler and continue drawing the line to the other side of the leg, being careful to keep it straight. You should now have a straight line running on both sides of the pant leg.

Do the same with the other pant leg. Now that both legs have been marked, you’ll want to mark your fold lines next. On the side of the line closer to the bottom of the pant leg, measure another half inch and make a new mark.

Now measure another half inch from your new mark, and make a third mark. You’ll want to once again extend these lines straight all the way around the pant leg on both legs. You should now have 3 solid straight lines travelling around both your pant legs.

Using a pair of sharp fabric scissors, cut off the pants closely following the bottom line, the one closest to the bottom of the pant leg. Do this for both pant legs. You can now begin sewing your new hem!

Most denim jeans will have a thick gold coloured thread, so it’s best to choose a thread that matches it to look consistent with the rest of the pants. We’ll be using this 12wt cotton thread called Spagetti in the bobbin. It’s a heavier than your usual 40 or 50wt thread, and closely resembles the decorative contrasting brown or golden thread used on jeans. The two Spagetti colours that tend to match most with this jean thread is SP11 or SP21. For this pair of jeans, I’ll be using colour SP21.

Because we’re using a thicker thread underneath, we want to use a finer thread in the needle. This will ensure the thread doesn’t struggle through the fabric, and it will give you a better stitch consistency and quality. But you don’t want just any finer thread up top, you want to make sure it is strong enough to hold your denim fabric together for a good long time.

We’ll be using DecoBob 80wt thread in the needle. This is a strong but lightweight polyester thread that is ideal to pair with Spagetti in the bobbin. We used a regular 80/12 size needle, however if you find your machine is struggling with the thicker denim fabric, you can also use a denim needle.

Don’t forget to increase your machine’s stitch length to 3.1. This will help with the machine’s tension when using the thicker 12wt thread, and also match the stitch length showing on the jeans.

Once the machine is set up, you can begin sewing. Roll up the hem following the remaining two lines so that the raw edge is tucked away. If you feel confident with keeping it straight you can begin sewing right away. However, we recommend beginners clip their hems in place to prevent it from moving using sewing clips. We prefer sewing clips instead of using pins because the thick denim can be difficult to penetrate with pins, and it doesn’t cause any puckering.

You’ll want to sew on the inside of the pant leg so you can follow the edge of the new hem. This way, your heavy 12wt thread in the bobbin will show on the right side of the pant leg.

We recommend starting on the bump of one of the side seams to hide your backstitching. Because of the thickness of the fabric in this area, you may need to gently turn the handle on the side of your sewing machine to manually sew the first few stitches. Sew close to the edge of the hem, being careful to keep your stitching straight and consistent. When you return to your start point, sew over the original stitching and don’t forget to backstitch again.

Trim your threads and you’re finished! You’ll have a new perfectly fitting pair of jeans that you hemmed yourself.

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Hand Stitched Buttonholes Tutorial

With all the beautiful machine buttonhole stitches out there right now, why bother making hand stitched buttonholes? Sometimes, you want to add a beautiful vintage look to your project. Or you might be working with a very heavy coat fabric and are struggling to get nice machine buttonholes. Or maybe you just want to add that extra special look to a project.

Handstitching your buttonholes can add a vintage look to your finished project, and choosing the right threads will give it a professional polish that will make it worth the extra effort. We’ll show you step by step how to mark, stitch, and cut your buttonholes for perfect results each time.

We are going to use this extra fine 100wt thread, InvisaFil, to stitch together the edges of our buttonhole. As the thread will be sitting under the decorative stitches, we don’t want it to show or add any bulk. Invisafil is a 100 wt polyester, so, while it is strong, the stitches will disappear in the fabric and won’t be seen.

We will also need a gimp thread to add extra strength and a bit of lift to our buttonhole. For this we will be using HomeDec. HomeDec is a very strong polyester thread that comes in three weights (30wt, 40wt, 60wt). We will be using the heaviest 40wt for this project, in a color to match the fabric.

For our decorative buttonhole stitch, we will use this 12wt double gassed cotton thread called Spagetti. The tight twist will make stitching easy, and the 12 weight thread gives a nice bold finish to the buttonhole.

We will need two hand stitching needles. For the fine InvisaFil thread, we’ll be using a #11 sharp needle. And for stitching with the heavier Spagetti, we will use a #7 embroidery needle which has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.

Using a spacing tool and some tailors chalk, evenly mark the starting point of each of your buttonholes.

As buttons all have different depths, here is a trick to mark the length of your buttonhole. Wrap your chosen button with a piece of twill tape, going around the fullest part of the button. Pin the ends of the twill tape.

Now pull out the button and lay the tape flat. The distance from the pin to the folded edge will be the length of your buttonhole.

Measure this length and mark the end of each buttonhole. Use a straight edge and some chalk to mark the buttonhole line.

Using a buttonhole cutting tool like this one by Clover, cut along this line. Cut and finish only one buttonhole at a time.

Thread a #11 sharp needle with InvisiFil, tying an overhand knot right behind the eye of the needle to prevent it from unthreading. Now begin to do a close whipstitch all along the open edge of your buttonhole, to hold the layers together.

Next, thread a #7 embroidery needle with a length of the Spagetti. Now, cut a length of the HomeDec thread twice the length of the buttonhole plus another 1 inch. (We’re using a bright, contrasting color in this demonstration so you can see it, but if you do it yourself, you should choose a thread color that matches the fabric). Hold or tape the gimp thread along the cut edge of the buttonhole. Starting at the back end of the buttonhole begin working a buttonhole stitch along the edge, catching the gimp thread underneath your stitch.

Work the buttonhole stitches close together to for a nice pearl edge along the cut edge of the buttonhole. When you get to the front end of the buttonhole work 3 or four stitches around the curve, before going back down the other side of the buttonhole, making sure to still catch the gimp thread underneath.

When you are back at your starting point, work a tack stitch of 3 to 4 stitches across the width of the buttonhole.  Pull your thread to the underside and thread the end through the under side of your stitches before trimming it off. Thread the gimp thread through the large eye needle thread it to the underside, and cut it off. Repeat this for all of your buttonholes.

That is all there is to it. While this is a bit time consuming, it will definitely add a special touch to your project. Pictured below is a finished buttonhole with a gimp thread that matches the color of the fabric.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Differences Between Thread Weights: Where to Use Them & How They Look

Your standard thread will often come in a medium 40 or 50 weight. But a huge variety of other threads exist in super fine 100 weight, or super chunky 3 weight options too. In this video, you’ll learn how these different weights of thread will show up (or not be seen at all) and where they can be used for the best advantage. Sew like a pro when you understand how thread weight influences your stitching!

Whether you want the thread to blend in or sparkle and show off, choosing the right thread will make all the difference in your projects.

1.     Medium Weight Threads

These are the types of threads that you will most frequently find, most often 40 or 50wt. They can be used for most construction, quilting, machine embroidery, sergers, and general purpose sewing.

Medium weight threads can be made from all types of materials including cotton, polyester, rayon, and even metallic. This thread weight will blend or show up depending on what the material is made from. Therefore, a cotton will blend more than a metallic will. But if you really don’t want your thread to show, you may wish to consider a different weight.

2.     Fine Weight Threads

Fine weight threads run from 60wt to 100wt. These smaller threads are ideal for intricate work such as micro quilting and fine detailed machine embroidery like freestanding designs or monograming.

They can be made from cotton on the larger end to polyester on the finer end. The fine threads blend better and take up less space, so they’re ideal for hand & machine appliqué, stitch in the ditch, English paper piecing, and micro quilting. Dense quilting will also leave quilts softer, more flexible and lighter as the thread doesn’t take up as much space or add as much weight.

Quilting with InvisaFil™ 100wt, a light grey blends in with every colour.

This 80wt cottonized polyester thread called DecoBob is our favourite piecing and bobbin thread. Because it’s so fine, it makes seams lay flatter and crisper when piecing. This is especially useful when it comes to foundation paper piecing or when you need to accurately match up patterns and blocks. It’s also incredibly strong, making it a reliable choice to hold your quilts and projects together.

Piecing with DecoBob™ 80wt.

As a bobbin thread it is unsurpassed. The fine thread can be paired with any top thread including thicker threads. It greatly reduces tension problems, lets your seams lay flatter and look more professional, and as a bonus, allows your bobbin to hold more thread since the fine thread takes up less space.

3.     Heavy Weight Threads

Heavy weight threads range from 12wt – 3wt. 12wt threads can still fit through the eye of a sewing machine needle, so you can do some incredible stitching with this thicker thread. Whereas 8wt and heavier threads are not recommended as a top thread.

Use 12wt for bold machine quilting, big stitch hand quilting, thread painting, decorative stitching, hand embroidery, sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, crafts, and even hemming jeans. When using it on the machine the thicker thread will stand up from the fabric giving you a wonderful textural effect.

Decorative stitching with Fruitti™ 12wt cotton thread.

8wt threads and thicker the most commonly used for hand embroidery. Even though they’re too thick to fit through the sewing machine needle, you can still do couching and bobbin work with it on a machine, or use it in the loopers of a serger. 8wt and thicker can also be used for the same things as 12wt, in addition to crochet and knitting.

Still have questions about thread weight? Let us know in the comments. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Sewing Raw Edge Appliqué Using Iron Fusible Thread (FREE Pattern Included!)

Raw edge appliqué is a simple, fast, and easy way to appliqué your pieces together because it doesn’t require any extra steps. The most common way to sew raw edge appliqué is to use fusible stabilizer, however this can leave your appliqué looking and feeling stiff. In this video, we’ll show you how to sew raw edge appliqué using iron fusible thread, as well as some tips and tools to make it easier. Included is a free pattern to practice with or turn into your own unique project!

Trace your appliqué shapes onto the fabric using a temporary pen or piece of chalk and cut them out. We always recommend using batik fabric for raw edge appliqué because the fabric is less prone to fraying. If your shapes are more complex, or have a lot of angles in them, we suggest using a smaller, sharp pair of scissors to do your cutting with as it makes it much easier to do.

We’re going to load the machine with two different threads. In the top is a temporary regular sewing thread that will be pulled out later. However, in the bobbin we’ll be winding this thread called Iron ‘n Fuse. This is an iron fusible thread that will fuse the appliqué pieces to the fabric.

If you have appliqué pieces that have smaller shapes, you can add an optional layer of water soluble stabilizer underneath to make it easier to sew on the machine. You don’t need to cut it out to match the shape of your appliqué perfectly, just cut out a rough shape that your appliqué will easily fit over.

Increase your machine’s stitch length slightly to make it easier to pull the top thread out later. Sew all the way around your appliqué piece.

Position your appliqué on your project and press with high heat. The best part about using Iron ‘n Fuse thread is that it can still be lifted and repositioned as needed. It won’t fuse permanently to your project. Once your appliqué is in place, you can pull out the top thread.

To stitch your appliqué down permanently, you can use any variety of threads depending on the look you wish to achieve. The choice is yours, however for my appliqué I’ll be using this 50wt variegated cotton called Tutti. I love this thread because it’s been double gassed so it has a clean, ultra low lint finish, and the colour changes on the thread are quicker.

Sew around your appliqué about 1/8th of an inch away from the edge. If you want to make a bolder outline on your appliqué, you can go around again a second time. Raw edge appliqué tends to have a scrappy look, so don’t worry about making your lines perfectly aligned with each other.

Alternatively, you can hide the raw edge of the appliqué by selecting a satin stitch on your machine and sewing over the edge to cover it. We chose to stitch a bold outline around the appliqué pieces using this thicker 12wt thread called Spagetti. Like Tutti, it’s also a low lint cotton, but this thicker thread is a great way to add emphasis or an outline to a motif in your project.

After you’re finished permanently stitching your pieces down, don’t forget to wash your project to remove the water soluble stabilizer, if you chose to use it. No matter which creative way you choose to finish your raw edge appliqué project, this method is a fool-proof way to reduce the stiffness of an iron-on stabilizer often used in this technique.

If you’ve tried this for yourself, tag us on Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or by the hashtag at #wonderfil. We would love to see your sewing projects and progress! Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Easy Serger Blanket Stitch Tutorial

Here’s a super quick and easy tutorial on how to make a quick machine “blanket stitch” edging on your serger. A two-thread flatlock stitch and some water soluble stabilizer will produce a beautiful, hand finished look. It’s a great way to finish blankets or other projects with this incredibly fast and simple serger solution.

Let’s start by setting up the serger. You will need a serger that has the capability to do a 2 thread flatlock stitch. Most sergers are able to do this, so check your manual to set up your machine.

A bold thread will have the best effect for this stitch, so we’ll be using a 12wt variegated cotton called Fruitti in the needle. This thread has been double gassed, resulting in a very low lint finish, so the stitches will look clean and beautiful when it stitches out. Another option is 12wt Spagetti which is the same thread as Fruitti, but comes in solid colors.

You’ll need a 90/14 topstitch needle in the serger to accommodate the heavier thread.

In the loopers, we’ll be using this medium 50wt cotton thread called Konfetti in a colour that matches the blanket. The finer weight works well with the heavier Fruitti thread.

For the blanket, we’re choosing this cotton flannel which is warm and soft to the touch. You can choose to do a single layer, a double layer, or a double layer with batting in the middle. Be aware to follow fire safety regulations when choosing fabric for babies.

Before you begin, cut a length of water soluble stabilizer long enough to go around the edge of your blanket, with a width of about 3 inches. You can use pieces so you do not need one continuous length.

Set up the serger to do a 2 thread flatlock stitch, with a wide cutting width. Place a strip of the wash away stabilizer along the right edge of the blanket and stitch along the edge of the fabric. The stabilizer will lay on top of your project. Continue around the circumference of your blanket, making sure the knife of the serger is cutting off a small strip along the edge as you sew.

When you have finished going around all four edges, remove your work from the serger, leaving a tail to finish off.

Tug on the wash away stabilizer all the way around to pull the stitches to the back and leave a “blanket stitch”. Trim the stabilizer close to your stitching, taking care not to cut into your serger threads. Rinsing the finished project will remove the remaining water soluble stabilizer.

Weave the thread ends into your edging using a large eye needle. A drop of fray check will prevent them from unraveling later.

If your blanket is rectangular, you will go off the edge at each corner. After you have finished your piece, you will need to go back and weave in the serger threads at each corner to finish.

If you make the corners of your project a slow curve, you will not need to finish loose ends at each corner. In this case, begin your stitching line along one edge, not on a corner. When you come to the end, you will need to overlap your starting stitches, then slowly edge your way off the fabric, trying not to create a ‘point’. You will have only one set of loose threads to weave in.

And that is all there is to it! In minutes you will have a nicely finished blanket! This is perfect for making receiving blankets for babies, a simple blanket for yourself or your family, or quickly finishing the edges of a project off.

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Do Big Stitch Hand Quilting

Big stitch hand quilting uses a simple running stitch and a heavier thread such as 12wt or 8wt thread. This is the perfect technique to add a personal touch to quilts, and those slight imperfections from doing hand stitching only adds to the home-made charm. This is a gorgeous way to give your quilted projects a textured, hand-made look.

Before starting you’ll need to take a look at the thread you’ll be using. One of our favourite choices is Eleganza, an 8wt Egyptian perle cotton thread that has a soft sheen to its matte finish. This thread is thick enough that it stands out more boldly against the fabric. One of the things that makes this thread an ideal choice is that it has been double gassed, resulting in a super low lint finish. It also has a very tight twist to prevent unravelling as you stitch.

If Eleganza is thicker than you wanted for your quilting, another option is Spagetti and Fruitti. These 12wt Egyptian cotton threads are thinner than Eleganza, but still thick enough that it stands out. Like Eleganza, they have both been double gassed for a very low lint finish, so your stitches will not only look beautiful, but the thread is very easy to pull through the fabric and fibres.

Finally, another option we’d like to suggest is Dazzle, an 8wt rayon thread with a single strand of metallic woven through. While we normally wouldn’t recommend a rayon thread to hand quilt with because it’s so slippery, because this thread has a strand of metallic in it, it has more friction to grip the fabric and stay in place.

These are only a few options for thread, but they give you an idea of the different types of threads available that can change the look of your hand quilting. Before starting, I’m going to peel a length of painter’s tape and place it along the line I want to do my quilting. This gives me an easy guide to follow so my quilting stays straight and doesn’t wobble. Because painter’s tape isn’t too sticky, I can peel it off when I’m done without leaving any residue.

If you have a particularly large quilt, using a quilting hoop to keep your quilt taut while quilting is preferable. However, since my piece is quite small, I’m going to go without one which is fine too. 

For any 8wt threads, you can use a chenille size 24 or a long darner size 1 hand needle, but any needle with a large enough eye to fit the thread will also work. To begin, cut a manageable length of thread, not too long that it will get tangled. Tie a knot on the opposite end from the needle.

Choose a position slightly before where you want your actual quilting to begin and poke the needle through to the batting, but not far enough that it goes through the backing.

Pull the thread all the way to the knot, and once it reaches the fabric, give it a sharp tug so that it goes through the fabric and gets buried behind it. You’re now ready to begin your stitching. You can decide how large you want your stitches to be, just try to keep your spacing consistent.

Poke your needle down the length of the stitch you want it to be, but don’t pull it all the way through. Continue loading up stitches along the length of your needle until you have a few on your needle, then you can pull your stitches through. This is the basis of the running stitch. It helps to keep your thumb in front to push the fabric closer to the needle so that you don’t end up with too big of a stitch.

Now if you happen to run out of thread or want to finish off your line of stitching, you’ll need to bury your thread. To do that, tie another knot close to the base of the fabric. It helps to put your finger on the knot before pulling the thread all the way through to keep the knot as close to the fabric as possible.

Now put your needle through the same hole, slide it through the batting and come up a little ways away, and pull the thread all the way through giving it a little tug to get the knot through. Now you just need to snip the thread and your knot will hide nicely behind the fabric.

That’s all there is to it! For comparison, we’ve done more hand quilting over here using Fruitti, the 12wt variegated cotton thread. You can see it’s quite a bit thinner, and how that variegated colour looks. Beside that is another section using Dazzle, the 8wt rayon and metallic thread. It’s the same weight as the Eleganza, but that strand of metallic gives it a lot of sparkle for a totally different effect. The rayon is also a lot shinier than cotton.

(left) Eleganza, (right) Dazzle

(bottom) Fruitti (top) Dazzle

You can create such a natural look by hand quilting, something that a machine can never achieve. It might be a little time consuming, but with a little patience, it’s totally worth it. Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.

Introducing Spagetti™ Heavy 12wt Thread

When your goal is to stand out, Spagetti™ knows how to be seen. This thick and juicy 12wt thread is actually the thickest thread you can safely fit through the eye of your machine needle. Some sewers love how boldly this thread stands out, while others might be a little intimidated by it. But we’re here to show you how to use this thread effectively to create color and texture you can’t ordinarily achieve with a regular thread.

Spagetti™ and its neighbour Fruitti™ are both 3ply, 12wt long staple Egyptian cotton threads that have been double gassed for a super low lint finish. Gassing is a term you may have come across in the sewing industry. It refers to a technique thread manufacturers use to burn off 80% of the lint from the surface of a thread. WonderFil actually repeats this process a second time, removing another 80% of the remaining 20% of the lint, resulting in an incredibly smooth, ultra low lint finish. If you take a close look at the thread, you’ll find very few fuzzies sticking out. This greatly reduces the lint build up in your machine, so you can spend more time sewing and less time cleaning it out, or fewer trips to the machine maintenance shop.

You can see in this side-by-side comparison how much thicker Spagetti™ looks beside a regular 50wt thread. While you wouldn’t use this thread for something like piecing, it’s the perfect choice for anything decorative that will show on top. Machine quilting with this thread will really make your quilting pop. And because the thread is so thick, it will completely change the look of your quilt top.

Or you can consider something like thread painting. Most sewers will use a 40wt thread to do this technique, but a 12wt thread sits a little higher on the fabric. You’ll be able to create a beautiful, raised texture simply by switching to this thread that can’t be achieved with thinner threads.

This thread is beautiful for any decorative top stitching, appliqué, or even sewing thicker materials like leather or upholstery, but what about for hand sewing? Big stitch hand quilting never looked better. It also makes for a beautiful sashiko thread, needle punch, or even for hand embroidering smaller details and designs. This 12wt thread is comparable in size to a single strand of embroidery floss.

There’s a lot of great techniques Spagetti™ can shine in, but we don’t recommend using it with itself in the bobbin. A thread this bulky in both the top and the bottom will likely cause a host of tension issues that will decrease your stitch quality.

So what should you use in the bobbin? Meet DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester. This little thread is incredibly small, but also surprisingly strong. While it’s important to use a fine bobbin thread in every application, it’s especially important when using a 12wt thread in the needle. This fine thread will greatly reduce tension problems because it always knows to give way to the top thread instead of fighting for tension in the machine. These two know how to work together for perfect, smooth stitching.

Of course, you’ll also need to choose a larger needle to accommodate this bulky thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle whenever using Spagetti™ because this needle has a larger eye. This gives the thread more room to move around and reduces the chance for the thread to shred or break.

Don’t be afraid to go bold with Spagetti™ and see how this thread can change the look of your projects! Inspired to sew with Spagetti™ and Fruitti™? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from.

How to Successfully Sew With Heavy 12wt Threads

12wt thread is actually the thickest thread you can safely fit through the eye of your machine needle and can be absolutely stunning to use in any project. These bold stitches are perfect for eye catching designs, accents, and quilting that can really change the look of your sewing. However, since most sewing machines are calibrated for medium 50-40wt threads, sometimes you’ll need to make a few adjustments so you can sew with these thick threads.

You may not need to follow everything on our list to sew successfully with 12wt, in fact your thread will probably sew beautifully without much trouble. We’ve just compiled a list of helpful tips to help those who run into trouble, as well as easy adjustments to help your 12wt thread run through the machine smoothly.

Needles

The first and most important thing you’ll need to do is change the needle. If you’re using a 12wt thread in 100% cotton or rayon, we recommend a size 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle. If you’re using a specialty thread such as GlaMore™, a 12wt rayon that has a strand of metallic running through it, you can even use a 100/16 or 110/18 topstitch needle. Because of the metallic in the thread, having even more space in the eye of the needle for the thread to move around in will greatly reduce shredding and breakage problems.

We recommend using topstitch needles for heavier threads as they have a larger size eye and a deeper groove along the needle shaft. This helps the thread to sew more smoothly and reduce shredding.

An alternative to topstitch needles are super non-stick needles. If you’re sewing with 12wt thread through a layer of fusible, these needles will greatly reduce friction and help the thread glide through the material, which will also do a lot to prevent shredding and breakage issues.

Tension

Depending on your machine, you may also need to lower or increase the top tension slightly. Lowering the tension means to loosen it, and increasing the tension means to tighten it. It might be intuitive to lower the tension as the thread is thicker, and in some cases this will be true. However, we find that on other machines, you’ll actually need to tighten the tension for these thicker threads. The only way you’ll be able to tell which direction to go is to sew a test strip on a scrap piece of fabric.

You can tell if the tension is too tight if the bobbin thread is pulling through to the top. Alternatively, if you’ve loosened your tension too much, then your top thread will pull through to the bottom. A perfect stitch will have the top and bobbin threads nested in the center, between the fabric layers. You may also end up with a bird’s nest of thread on the bottom if the tension is set too tightly.

What you put in your bobbin will greatly impact your stitch quality and seam bulk. We always recommend pairing your 12wt top thread with a super fine bobbin thread. This is DecoBob™, an 80wt cottonized polyester thread that we recommend as your primary bobbin thread. You can see that this thread is a lot thinner than the 12wt. If you were to sew with 12wt in your bobbin as well as in the top, you’ll find that your seams will be very bulky and won’t look good. Your machine may also struggle to run both of these large threads, increasing the likelihood of shredding, and your stitch quality could also suffer.

Putting this thinner thread in the bobbin will help keep your seams flatter, reduce tension problems, and keep your stitch quality looking beautiful.

If do plan on using 12wt thread in the bobbin, such as for bobbin work, take extra precautions. All bobbin cases come calibrated for 40 – 60wt threads, so if you put a 12wt thread in there, the thread will be thicker than what the tensions are set for. It will be difficult to change the settings perfectly back to where they are set for medium weight threads, so we recommend purchasing an extra bobbin case where you can play with the tension settings.

You’ll want to loosen the tension slightly so the thread lays flat like its supposed to. Otherwise the stitches can look very tight, or you’ll pull the thread from the bottom to the top, or even pull the thread from the top to the bottom. Check out our video on changing bobbin case tensions to learn how to do this for yourself.

Stack Wound vs Cross Wound Thread

Check the direction your spool of thread is wound. All 12wt threads from WonderFil will look like this, which is referred to as cross wound thread. Other companies might wind their thread in a straight direction called stack wound thread. The general rule of thumb is that stack wound threads should go on your vertical spool pin, while cross wound threads should be used on the horizontal spool pin.

The reason for this is the direction the thread comes off the spool depending on how its wound. If you were to put the cross wound thread on the vertical pin, you can see that the thread drags coming off the side of spool. This adds an extra inconsistent tension to the thread, which will impact the stitch quality. When you place the same spool on the horizontal pin, you can see the thread draws from the top of the spool in a smooth motion with no extra pull.

Stitch Length

We suggest lengthening your stitch length to 2.5 – 3 to help reduce the density of the stitches. Because the thread is thicker, it will look dense with a regular stitch length. Increasing the stitch length will make it look more like a normal stitch. Keep in mind your normal stitch length is usually set at around 2.

Here’s some issues that might come up, and how to resolve them:

If you find the thread is shredding, it can be caused by a few different things. One reason could be the needle is too small. Too small of an eye, or the needle shaft not being thick enough, will cause a lot of friction on the thread which can lead to shredding and breakages.

A needle that is too small can also cause the thread to ball up and turn into a bird nest.

Another reason you might experience thread breaks could simply be that you’re sewing too fast. Slow the speed on your machine. This will also give the thread a chance to lay down smoothly in the stitches. Slowing down is especially important for decorative stitches because of the density of the thread.

Your top tension may also be too tight or too loose. If it is, this can lead to thread breaks and the bobbin pulling up through the fabric, or the top thread pulling under the fabric. Play with your top tension settings on a scrap fabric until you find the ideal setting for your machine. 

Keep in mind that not all of these problems will come up when sewing with 12wt threads. As every machine is different, you’ll find that in most cases, the thread will sew beautifully with minimal adjustments. This is just a comprehensive list of everything that could happen, and how to solve them in case they come up. 

What Kind of 12wt Threads Are There?

12wt threads can be used for all kinds of beautiful, bold stitching. It’s perfect for adding textural effects as you can see in this thread painting done with a 12wt Egyptian cotton called Spagetti™. Cotton gives you a beautiful matte finish paired with the natural look and texture of cotton. Because we used the thicker 12wt thread, you can see the thread stands out from the fabric, making it ideal for bold designs that you can touch.

You’ll also find 12wt threads in rayon, such as this 100% rayon thread called Accent™. Rayon is a smooth, soft, and glossy material with a lot of shine. We love using it for decorative designs and highlighting because of its light reflecting properties.

Some other fun 12wt specialty threads can be used, such as this rayon and metallic thread called GlaMore™. GlaMore™ has a strand of metallic running through it, giving it the gloss and soft finish of the rayon mixed with the eye-catching sparkle of metallic. These are the threads you want to make an impact with your stitching!

Consider using 12wt thread for any decorative machine stitching, bobbin work, couching, machine appliqué, machine quilting and big stitch hand quilting, or even run it through the loopers on your serger for decorative edging effects. These threads can give you a look you can’t achieve with regular medium weight threads, so don’t be afraid to experiment outside the thread box!

Have you used 12wt threads in your sewing machine? Let us know if you still have questions about these threads, or tell us where you love to use them. Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry these threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/.

Comparing Hand Embroidery Thread Weights: 12wt, #8, #5, #3

When doing hand embroidery, there are a number of thread weights to choose from. We’ll show you the difference between a 12wt, #8, #5 and #3 thread and how they show up differently in your stitches so you can choose the right look for your project. Choosing a variety of weights is the perfect way to give your hand embroidered project a unique look with different textures.

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The most common size of hand embroidery perle cotton is a #8. If you’re just starting out or doing any general hand embroidery, this is the recommended thread weight. It shows off beautifully with all the different varieties of stitches, and the thread will pull easily through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. With this thread you will want to use a size 3 milliners needle. Our line of perle cottons is called Eleganza™ and comes in #8, #5 and #3 sizes with Sue Spargo. Let’s take a look at the other two sizes.

#5 is a little thicker than the #8 but still thinner than the #3. Many people prefer using this size over the #8 because they like how it stands out a bit more and adds a little more emphasis to the stitching. With this size thread, we recommend using a milliners size 1 needle.

The #3 is the thickest weight of Eleganza perle cotton and its size is comparable to yarn. While this thick thread might give some stitchers pause, all of the Eleganza line of threads go through a treatment called double gassing, which removes almost all the lint from its surface. This gives it a silky smooth finish that pulls much easier through the fabric while making your stitches look clean and tidy. It’s great for adding outlining and emphasis to any hand sewing project. We recommend a size 15 milliners needle with this thread.

Finally, we have these 12wt threads called Spagetti™ and Fruitti™. Both of these threads are a long staple Egyptian cotton that has also been double gassed for a super low lint finish so your stitches will look clean and beautiful. A 12wt thread is comparable to a single strand of embroidery floss like what you would get when you split the strands. This is perfect for any small or fine detail stitching, or if you’re stitching on a fabric with a higher thread count.

These are just a few stitches to show you the difference thread weight can make in hand embroidery. Experiment with them yourself and show us what you stitched by tagging us on Facebook or Instagram! Facebook @wonderfil or Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythreads or by the hashtag: #wonderfil.

Exploring Polyester Thread: Varieties, Differences, & Where to Use Them

Have you ever noticed all the varieties of polyester thread on the market? While it all might be made from the same base material, polyester comes in all kinds of different treatments and finishes, giving them completely different uses and appearances. In this video we’ll go through a wide variety of polyester threads you’ll come across, as well as how you should use them and how they’ll look when stitched out.

Trilobal Polyester
Trilobal polyester is a gorgeous and shiny thread that loves to show off. The word “tri” in trilobal refers to the shape of the thread which is actually triangular in shape. The flat sides of the thread reflect light much better than a round thread does, making it a shinier thread that is meant to stand out.

Use trilobal polyester in the embroidery machine for gorgeous results. It’s also a popular quilting thread when you want your quilting to have a little pop of shine. Because this thread is made to stand out, it’s a great choice for outlining, thread painting, or appliquéing a design down, such as with a satin stitch.

WonderFil Trilobal Polyester Thread Lines:
- FabuLux™ 40wt (variegated & neon colors)
- Polyfast™ 40wt (solid colors)

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Monopoly or Monofilament Thread
This is a thread commonly used when you want to sew something without the thread showing. These threads usually come in clear or smoke and are semi-translucent to help them blend into the fabric. However due to the limited colour range of these threads, they can still be seen when sewn over contrasting patches in the fabric and under bright lights. They are also stiff and inflexible when sewn in the fabric, making it unideal for dense stitching, and are semi-reflective, showing up under bright lights. Many people use these threads for quilting, stitch in the ditch, appliqué, or couching.

WonderFil does not manufacture monopoly thread as we consider a lightweight cottonized polyester to perform the same techniques at a consistently higher quality.

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Cottonized Polyester
Cottonized polyester is particularly unique because it undergoes a special treatment to take out most of the shine from the thread. This treatment also removes the stretch from it, making it incredibly easy to sew with and making it ideal for piecing and quilting when stretch in the thread is unwanted. While it might be called a cottonized polyester, there is actually zero cotton in the thread. This 100% polyester material is simply called this due to its matte finish and lack of stretch, meaning it looks similar to and sews easily in the machine like a cotton does.

Finer cottonized polyester threads keep their strength even at such a small size, which does wonders for piecing, especially foundation paper piecing and English paper piecing as the thread takes up significantly less bulk in the fabric, allowing seams to lay incredibly flat. And because the thread carries more of a matte finish, it hides in the fabric very easily, blending into the colours behind it with ease. This makes it an ideal replacement for monopoly threads that have an inflexible plastic feel and can still be seen under bright lights.

Finer cottonized polyester threads are great for quilting when you just want the texture of the quilting to show and not the thread. It’s also perfect for stitch in the ditch, bobbin thread for any top weight thread, and can even be used in the embroidery machine with better results in digitized lace and highly detailed or shrunken designs. Cottonized polyester also comes in medium weights and is a hugely popular material for longarm and midarm quilting. This easy to sew thread is recommended for beginner quilters, or those that want a strong and reliable thread that can sew in multi-directions.

WonderFil Cottonized Polyester Thread Lines:
- InvisaFil™ 100wt
- DecoBob™ 80wt
- Master Quilter™ 40wt

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Wooly Poly
This fun thread is incredibly flexible, being able to stretch and shrink depending on if it’s relaxed or pulled taught. They’re designed to be used in the serger and its stretching properties make it universally adored for knits and stretch fabrics. Wooly poly thread is recommended for rolled hems, garments, dance wear, swim suits, fitness wear, napkins, and finishing the edges of stretch materials.

WonderFil Wooly Poly Thread Lines:
- SoftLoc™ tex 35

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Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread
Because polyester is such a strong and easy thread to sew with, it’s highly preferred by many sewists. However, what if you want to sew with the ease of a polyester thread, but prefer the look of cotton? Thread manufacturers have come up with thread that has a polyester core but is wrapped on the outside with cotton fibre. This hybrid thread combines both materials into an ideal sewing thread with the natural look and finish of cotton. These threads are most commonly used for quilting and general sewing, and are frequently used on longarm and midarm machines.

WonderFil Cotton Wrapped Poly Thread Lines:
- Ultima™ 40wt

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Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester
An enhanced multi-filament polyester is designed for ultra-strength, best used for heavy-duty sewing on thicker materials such as leather, pleather, vinyl, cork, and upholstery fabrics. You’ll want to choose this thread when you want to give your projects more durability, such as when sewing wallets, bags, purses, or home décor. In a thicker weight, it also provides a beautiful decorative stitch on your projects.

For best results, we recommend pairing any weight of an enhanced multi-filament polyester on the top with a 60wt of the same thread in the bobbin. Because this thread is so incredibly strong, it should be used with itself top and bottom, with the lighter 60wt in the bottom to help seams lay flatter and promote better machine tension for higher quality stitches.

WonderFil Enhanced Multi-Filament Polyester Thread Lines:
- HomeDec™ 30wt, 40wt, 60wt

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All-Purpose Polyester
This is the most generic and one of the most commonly found polyesters. It isn’t made to be used to show off, but rather behind the scenes in constructing garments, dresses and wedding gowns, and in sergers. This thread carries a little bit of stretch to it, which is great for clothing, as it has a little more give in the seams. No one wants to hear the dreaded “pop-popping” of stitches being snapped out. An all-purpose polyester tends to be lower in cost, versatile, and can be used for any general sewing.

WonderFil All-Purpose Polyester Thread Lines:
- Designer™ 40wt

Tell us how you like to use polyester threads in your own projects, or share something you made with us using WonderFil threads! Instagram @wonderfilspecialtythread or on Faceback @WonderFil, or use #wonderfil to tag us.