Binding Quilts with Your Backing Fabric - No Binding Strips Needed!

We want to show you a fabulous way of binding your quilts using just the backing fabric. It’s fast, easy, and still looks just as good as if you did it with binding strips. This is a wonderful way of simplifying your binding without sacrificing a professionally finished look!

We’re using this quilt block as an example of how to set up your own quilt to bind it with the backing fabric. This method will of course still work on a larger sized quilt, but we’ll just be demonstrating the technique on this block.

After your quilt has been quilted, you’ll have some leftover batting and backing fabric along the edges. If you plan on binding it with the backing fabric, you’ll need to leave an excess of about 2 or 3 inches of backing fabric.

Before you can begin binding, you’ll need to square up your quilt. Tuck your backing out of the way and trim the other layers with your rotary cutter. Be careful not to cut through any of your backing fabric. If you can’t get your backing out of the way enough that you won’t cut into it, you can also carefully trim your layers with a pair of scissors as long as you can get it all squared up evenly.

(Pinning the backing fabric out of the way)

(Trimming the batting to square up the quilt)

When your quilt is trimmed and squared up evenly, you can now trim your back fabric. You will need an inch of back fabric from the edge of your quilt, so take out your quilt ruler and trim it so that you have an even 1 inch of back fabric all the way around.

(Trimming the backing fabric to 1”/2.5cm

Fold your back fabric in half so that the edge of the fabric is just touching the edge of the quilt top. You don’t need it to overlap the quilt top, just have it lined up against the edge of it. Press with an iron to hold the fold in place.

Now you’re going to fold the binding over one more time. Take a glue stick and run it across your binding, then when you fold it down again it will help hold it in place. Press again with the iron to keep it stuck down snugly.

Now that you have your first folded edge, we’re going to fold the corner into a triangle making a 90 degree angle. Add another dab of glue and press it down with the iron to keep it in place.

Like before, fold the backing of the next edge down and press it in place with the iron. Take your glue stick and glue the entire edge including the folded triangle. Fold it over again and iron it down as you fold. The corner should have a perfectly mitered edge if your quilt is squared up correctly and the backing is folded evenly.

Continue these steps for the other two edges. When you come around to the last side, fold the corners on both ends of the backing into a 90 degree angle. Then fold and iron the binding down like before. Dab your glue across the entire fold including both corners and fold again, ironing it down as you go.

When you’ve finished, your quilt should have perfectly mitered corners and a binding that transitions evenly from back to front without an extra seam like you would with strip binding.

At this point you can choose to hand stitch your binding down like it’s traditionally done, or you can machine sew it which will go quicker. No matter which method you choose, we highly recommend using a finer thread in the top and bobbin. The thread we’ll be using is called DecoBob, which is an 80wt cottonized polyester thread. Because it’s so fine, it will really help to hide in the fabric so your stitches will be less visible. This is especially important if you choose to machine stitch your binding down. We recommend this thread because it’s strong enough to reliably hold your binding down without being too visible or worrying about the thread breaking.

To sew the binding down with your machine, you want to stitch as close as you can to the edge as you can. Because we tacked everything down with the glue earlier, the fabric is much less likely to shift as we sew. However, you can hold the edges down with some wonder clips if you need to. Sew all the way around your binding and don’t forget to back tack at the beginning and end.

There will be a gap at the mitered corners. These can be hand stitched close if you want to, or they can be left open if the quilt isn’t going to experience too much wear and tear. When you’re done, you have a beautifully bound quilt that smoothly transitions from back to front, and perfectly mitered corners. If you machine stitched it down with the 80wt DecoBob thread, you’ll also find that your stitches aren’t too visible either.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Find a store in your area that carries WonderFil at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

10 Ways to Sew with Heavy 12wt Thread

Some sewers might be stumped on what to use 12wt thread for, afterall it isn’t your traditional medium sized thread. What a lot of people don’t realize is how beautiful, bold, and versatile this thicker thread can be, and what kind of effects you can create with it. We’ll also take a closer look at the different types of 12wt thread you can find and when you might want to choose one over the other.

1. Thread Painting

12wt threads are a fantastic choice for thread painting for a few reasons. Because the thread is thicker, you can actually cover more area with less thread, making it a lot more efficient to thread paint with a 12wt thread. In addition, you’ll also find that the thread sits a little higher from the fabric. This gives a bolder textural effect to your project than using a medium weight thread would.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

2. Cross Stitch

These threads are thick enough for cross stitching projects, especially when you want to use a fabric or fibre with a finer weave. In this project, we used Spagetti™ and Fruitti™ 12wt cotton threads, which pull smoothly through the fabric due to their ultra low lint finish.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

3. Machine Embroidery

40wt threads are the standard when it comes to machine embroidery, but you can create a new look by using 12wt thread in your embroidery machine. If you have a larger design, or a design that isn’t too intricate, a 12wt thread will show the pattern much more boldly without needing to double stitch the same lines. Your pattern will also show off better due to the thicker thread.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

4. Hand Embroidery

If you love doing hand embroidery and sometimes split the strands of embroidery thread to make a finer thread, we would caution you against this. Splitting the strands of a thicker thread can weaken the thread while also giving it a lintier look. Instead of doing this, try using a 12wt thread which is comparable in size to an 8wt thread that’s been split in two. This way you won’t damage the thread, and you’ll keep your stitches looking clean and beautiful.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

5. Decorative Stitching

The decorative stitches built into most sewing machines are perfect for utilizing 12wt threads for fun, stand-out stitches. They’re perfect for decorating any project, whether it’s a stocking for your family, adding a small decorative line of stitching to a piece of clothing, or embellishing any quilt or table runner. A 12wt thread will give every decorative stitch a little more emphasis than a regular medium weight thread would.

Using Fruitti 12wt variegated double gassed Egyptian cotton

6. Needle Punch

Needle punching is a tool that can be used to create incredible textural effects, and it works best with thicker threads like 12wt. Depending on how you use the tool, you can make either dense loops or weave back and forth to fill in a space. This is a fantastic way to add a unique look to any project.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

7. Big Stitch Hand Quilting

12wt is one of the best threads to use for big stitch hand quilting because the thick thread really stands out against the fabric. You’ll also find it easier to handle a 12wt thread versus a medium weight thread as it is less delicate and sits better in a wide running stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

8. Machine Quilting & Longarm Quilting

If you’re not afraid of bold stitches that love to show off, a 12wt thread is the perfect choice when used for quilting. 12wt is actually the thickest thread you can put through the eye of a machine needle, so you can guarantee a quilted look where the thread adds another dimension of texture and colour.

Using GlaMore 12wt rayon & metallic

9. Red Work

Red work is a form of American embroidery that traditionally uses red thread and basic stitches to decorate household items. It can be completed with a simple backstitch following a traced pattern to create motifs that can decorate anything from dishcloths to quilts to cushion covers. A 12wt thread stands out beautifully against white fabric, making it ideal for outlining patterns.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

10. Sashiko

Sashiko is a Japanese embroidery technique that uses a simple running stitch to create beautiful geometric patterns or imagery. Traditionally they use white thread on an indigo dyed fabric, but these days, you can use any colours you like. Sashiko can be done by hand using a running stitch and a long hand embroidery or sashiko needle. However, you can also purchase a sashiko machine which replicates the look of a hand stitch.

Using Spagetti 12wt double gassed Egyptian cotton

Tell us in the comments where you’ve used 12wt threads, or where you would like to try them in a project! You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing FabuLux 40wt Trilobal Polyester Thread

When you want to add something a little extra special to your quilting, FabuLux knows how to bring that shine and color you’ve been looking for. This dazzling 40wt thread is made from trilobal polyester. Most threads are round in shape, but a trilobal polyester thread is actually triangular in shape. This allows the thread to reflect more light off its surface, giving your stitching a soft shine and lustre. It’s one of the many things that makes FabuLux unique.

Not only will this thread stand out more as a result, but it also comes in 5 solid neon colors. Don’t be intimidated, neon actually looks stunning when it’s sewn out, and it’s perfect for making your quilting stand out whether you choose to use it on contrasting fabric, or pair it with like colors for a more subtle look.

FabuLux’s remaining 35 of the total 40 colors are all variegated, with some more subtle tone-on-tone options, and a few others that really want to scream for your attention. Variegated threads are perfect for matching all the colors in your quilt blocks, so you can easily quilt edge to edge without worrying about needing to frequently change your thread colors.

This gorgeous thread is perfect for sewing on longarms, midarms, and regular home sewing machines, and comes in two sizes at 766yds and 3000yd cones. But it isn’t just a favorite for quilting. You can use FabuLux for outlining designs, decorative sewing, and even in the embroidery machine.

One of our favorite things about this thread is that it’s basically lintless. FabuLux has a beautifully clean finish that won’t add a lot of lint build up in your machines. Afterall, there’s no point in spending thousands of dollars on a well-tuned sewing machine, only to gunk it up with lint. And because FabuLux is also extremely strong while also being incredibly soft to the touch, your bed quilts will never have felt, or looked, better.

If you’re inspired to sew with FabuLux, head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Free 4th of July & Canada Day Iron-On Patch Tutorial!

Making your own iron-on patches is easy and full of possibilities. This is the perfect way to get creative and personalize jackets, hats, backpacks, and even suitcases. We’re celebrating Canada Day and the 4th of July with these adorable iron on patches. We’ll show you how to make your own with these embroidery designs included free for download! Once these patches are complete, you can either sew them or iron them on to whatever you like.

Free embroidery design download: https://www.wonderfil.ca/embroidery-design

We are going to use a plain white canvas type material as our base. Denim also works well for patches, but you want to choose a fabric that is fairly firm and has some body.

For the stabilizer, we have chosen this sticky stabilizer to keep our canvas nice and flat. You could also choose to hoop your fabric with a good cut- away stabilizer. If you choose a sticky stabilizer or an adhesive spray, you may want to use a super non-stick needle, so your needle runs smoothly through the fabric.

We’re choosing to stitch our design with PolyFast. Polyfast is a 2 ply trilobal polyester thread that has a brilliant sheen, and it is strong enough to withstand a fair bit of abuse, should you decide to put the patch on a bag. Polyfast is available in 210 colors, so you can easily find the right color for every design.

We’ll pair it with this 80 wt DecoBob prewound bobbin, to keep the design soft and the tension consistent. We always recommend a fine bobbin thread like DecoBob, especially with embroidery designs, as it will give you a better stitch consistency with all of the dense stitching involved with embroidery.

You will also need some fusible web, such as Heat n Bond, and some Fray Check.

Hoop the sticky stabilizer paper side up in your hoop, then score around the edges with a pin and pull up the paper to reveal the sticky side. Smooth the base material over the center of the hoop. We are also going to float a heavier stabilizer under the hoop to give the patch a bit more body.

Open the design in your embroidery machine, thread your machine with the first color, then begin to stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated on the machine.

Once your design is completely stitched out, remove the fabric and stabilizer from the hoop and cut around the design, about 1/4” from the border stitching.

Turn your patch wrong side up, then place a piece of Heat n’ bond, paper side up and with the fusible side against your patch, and iron in place.

Now, with your patch right side up, run a bead of Fray check all along the border stitching line. This will help to keep the fabric edges from fraying once the patch is cut out.

When the Fray Check has dried, use a sharp pair of scissors to trim closely to the border stitches, taking extra care not to cut into the stitches themselves. Now run a second bead of Fray check along the edges, to further weld down any stray threads.

Once the Fray Check has dried, the paper backing can be peeled off the patch, so you can iron it on to your chosen article. You can then choose to stitch it down by hand for extra security, if you’re putting it on something like a bag or suitcase.

Adding patches to your clothing or bags is a fun way to add some whimsy to your style, and to show your patriotic spirit for Canada Day or Independence Day. Let us know in the comment section below what you like to dress up with patches! Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Find a store in your area that carries WonderFil at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Getting Started With Crochet: Beginner Stitches

We’re here to teach you a few basic crochet stitches that will help introduce you to crochet! This is a fun, relaxing pastime that is easy to take with you on long road trips or on the go. Once you master these basic stitches, it’s easy to create a variety of different projects.

These basic stitches can be used to create the top for this cute little girl’s dress. We’ve included the FREE crochet pattern for this top which can be downloaded and printed by clicking here. This pattern uses each of the crochet stitches shown in the video below.

The dress was created using Eleganza #3, a high quality, long staple Egyptian cotton. For the beginner crocheter, you will appreciate the quality, as it is not prone to twisting and tangling. It is the heaviest weight of Eleganza, which also makes it great for beginners. We will also be using a 3.5 mm crochet hook.

To learn these stitches, check out the video below for detailed step-by-step instructions.

1. Chain Stitch (CH)

2. Single Crochet (SC)

3. Double Crochet (DC)

4. Double Crochet in One Spot

5. Double Crochet, Chain 3, Double Crochet in One Spot

6. Scallop Edges

7. Half Double Crochet (HDC)

8. Treble Stitch (TR)

9. Slip Stitch

Don’t forget, to learn how to these stitches, check out our video for details step-by-step instructions!

That’s all you need to know to create the dress pattern. It would be a good idea to practice some of these stitches before you begin to get used to the motion. One of the difficulties beginners will encounter is recognizing the skip stitch at the start of each row, so as not to unintentionally increase or decrease your stitch count in each row. So at first, practice doing a piece of either just single crochets or double crochet, to make sure you can keep your stitch count the same row to row and your piece straight and square. The stitches for the butterfly and flower addition to this top are a bit more complicated, so let us know if you would like to see another crochet tutorial for those.

Thanks for tuning in. Please send us pictures of your finished dresses; we would love to see them! Don’t forget to leave a comment in the comment section below and let us know what you would like to see next. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Hemming Lightweight Fabrics With a Serger & Sewing Machine

We’ll show you the easiest way to make a rolled hem on chiffon fabric, or any other similar lightweight material. We’ll first demonstrate it on the serger, then with a domestic machine for those who don’t own a serger. Using the recommended materials and this technique, the result will be a beautiful rolled hem that looks just as professional as if it came from the store!

A lot of formalwear uses sheer, lightweight fabrics, and this method is a good way to keep the edge looking professional like it had never been modified. Apart from your machine, you’ll only need some small but important materials:

First, you’ll want to choose the right thread. We’ll be using a 100wt poly thread called InvisaFil, which is going to blend really well in the fabric so you don’t even see it. And because the thread is so fine, it will stitch more easily through the thin fabric, resulting in fewer ruffles. It’s important to use a very fine thread like this because apart from showing less, it also won’t weigh down the lightweight fabric either.

Because the thread is so fine, we’re also going to choose a needle with a smaller eye. Choose a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle which works best on light fabrics.

Finally, I’m going to use a bobbin that’s been pre-wound with DecoBob thread. This is an 80wt poly thread that comes already pre-wound on a plastic sided bobbin which will pair well with the top thread. You can alternatively wind your own bobbin with the InvisaFil thread, just remember wind it slowly since the thin thread tends to float away. If you’re going to hem your fabric on a serger, obviously you won’t use a bobbin so you’ll want DecoBob thread on a spool for your lower loopers.

On a Serger: 

We are going to use a 3 thread rolled hem, with InvisaFil in the needle and upper looper, and DecoBob in the lower looper. Consult with your serger manual and adjust the stitch length and cutting blade to get a close narrow hem.

Once your machine is threaded, do a test run on similar fabric to make sure your fabric is not puckering. You may have to adjust your differential settings to get a flat, smooth edge. 

Mark your hem with a disappearing marking pen, and serge exactly along your marked line. This is the simplest method for a quick fine hem on chiffon or similar fine fabric.

On a Domestic Sewing Machine With a Rolled Hem:

If you want to hem fine fabric on a domestic machine, this two step method will help you achieve perfect results. Mark where you want your finished hem and cut 1” below the marked line. We will trim this closer later. Be sure to spread the fabric out flat and even as these types of fabrics can easily shift during cutting. Thread your machine with InvisaFil on top and DecoBob in the bobbin. Now you’re ready to sew!

Using your fingers, tuck the edge of the fabric over 1/8” below the finished hem length and stitch very close to this folded edge. Do this all the way to the end of the fabric. If you’re hemming a sleeve or skirt, or anything where your piece is a loop, we recommend starting and ending on the seam to help hide the backstitching.

When you’re done, use a pair of sharp, fine tipped scissors to cut away the remaining fabric as close as you can to your line of stitching without snipping into the stitching itself. Exercise caution so you don’t accidentally snip over your seam. Do this all the way to the end.

Press all the way around to sink the stitches into the fabric and smooth any puckers.

Once you’ve finished trimming the excess fabric and pressing, tuck the edge 1/8” over one more time (along the finished hem marking) and stitch it down again over the original line of stitching to complete your rolled hem. If you have trouble tucking the edge over with your fingers and keeping the 1/8” length consistent, you can press the edge down with an iron before sewing.

That’s all there is to it! You can see how little the thread shows in the finished hem as well how flat the edge sits because the fine thread doesn’t add extra bulk. As most hems have a curved edge, doing the hem in two steps helps keep your hem even and consistent and eliminates any problems. These materials combined with these simple techniques are all you need for perfect, professional hemming.

(Left: done with serger. Right: done with domestic machine.)

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Best Practices to Store Your Sewing Thread

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from early fading and aging.

Are you an avid collector of thread? No matter the size of your stash, it’s always good to keep in mind these thread storage best practices so your thread will stay in top condition for whenever you want to sew with it next. While thread doesn’t have a set expiry date, there are a few factors that can lead to faster aging. These simple tips will help prevent your thread from aging early, which can lead to weakened thread and faded colors.

If you love to show off all the pretty colors in your thread stash, you might mount them on your wall. There’s no better way to decorate your sewing room than with a wall full of gorgeous threads, and this makes it really easy to see all the colors you have to choose from all at once. However, if you’re storing your threads out in the open this way, it’s a good idea to take note of the sun exposure in the room. If you have a lot of sunlight shining on your threads for hours every day, the UV light can speed up the breakdown of the thread fibres, leading to weakened thread that breaks more easily after years of exposure.

This UV light can also cause the thread color to fade on the exposed surface, especially with red colors. These aren’t things that will happen overnight, but if you’re going through some of your threads more slowly, it can happen if you’re not paying attention over a few years. So, if you have some threads that you don’t use as often, it might be better to put them away in a closed container away from the sun.

Choose a home storage container with opaque drawers or boxes, something that the sun won’t penetrate. Keeping your threads put away in a closed container will also prevent dust from landing on the thread. While dust won’t impact the quality of the thread itself, it can come off while you’re sewing with it in the machine, adding to the lint build up inside.

Something to consider while your threads are stored in containers is the use of a Wonder Guard. This little sheet wraps around your spool of thread and stops it from unravelling. It’s perfect for organizing your thread and will prevent a lot of mess and tangles in your storage containers.

Another factor to consider is the climate you live in. If your home is somewhere very dry, you may wish to consider running a humidifier in your house. An excessively dry climate can also lead to the fibres of your thread drying out and weakening as a result. On the other hand, a very moist climate can also cause thread fibres to break down. You should choose to store your threads in a location in your home that isn’t too hot and dry, like near your furnace, but also away from direct water exposure.

We hope this helps you choose the best storage space for your threads so they can keep working long and hard for you! Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Razzle™ & Dazzle™: 8wt Rayon & Rayon + Metallic Threads

These juicy 8wt threads know how to show off boldly. Razzle™ 100% rayon and Dazzle™ rayon with metallic threads can be used for a variety of hand techniques, in serger loopers, and even in domestic sewing machines with specific techniques. They can add a totally new dimension to your projects that can’t be achieved with any other kind of thread. Let’s take a closer look at what makes Razzle™ and Dazzle™ threads so unique.

Razzle is an 8wt 100% rayon thread with a gorgeous and soft lustre, while Dazzle is an 8wt rayon with one strand of metallic running through it for when you just need a wink of sparkle.

When you think 8wt threads, one of the first uses that comes to mind is hand embroidery. Razzle and Dazzle are popular choices because unlike other 8wt rayon threads on the market, they have a tight twist that resists unravelling, making it ideal for pulling it through all kinds of fibres and fabrics. You can stitch confidently for beautiful and perfect hand embroidered embellishments.

Consider Razzle and Dazzle for other hand techniques like sashiko, big stitch hand quilting, visible mending, crochet, crafts, and tassels.

But these threads aren’t just limited to hand sewing. You can use these threads on the upper and lower loopers of your serger to create fantastic decorative edging on any project. Because these threads are made with rayon, they’ll leave a soft, silky, and shiny edging that is perfect for quickly finishing small quilts, panels, clothing, or any piece you want. We even made a tutorial to show you how to set up your serger and do this for yourself, which you can check out by clicking here.

While 8wt threads are too large to fit through the eye of your machine needle, that doesn’t mean you can’t use them on your sewing machine. Razzle and Dazzle make for an incredible couching thread that stands out from the fabric to create a gorgeous, touchable surface texture. You can also wind them on your bobbin to do bobbin work, which is a technique where you sew upside down to get away with sewing with these heavy 8wt threads in your machine. These techniques are perfect for adding that little extra bling and texture to any project.

Razzle comes in 46 solid colors in the WonderFil line, and 54 solid and variegated colors in the Sue Spargo collection. And Dazzle is offered in 34 colors in the WonderFil line, 36 colors in the Sue Spargo collection, and 35 unique twisted colors in the Starry Night Hollow collection by Kim Rado. These gorgeous threads are enough for anyone to fall in love with. 

Inspired to sew with Razzle and Dazzle? Shop the Sue Spargo collection at www.suespargo.com, or find all of these colors in one of your local stores at www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local.

7 Ways to Use Iron Fusible Thread

We’re going to show you a very useful tool for your sewing room: iron fusible thread. You can use this either in your bobbin or as a top thread, and it’s a great way to do everything from appliqué, lining up fabric patterns, or even making the perfect quilt binding. WonderFil’s Iron ‘n Fuse thread will actually melt and glue your fabric down when exposed to the heat of an iron. But it’s not permanent, you can still pull it up and move your pieces around, then re-fuse it in place if you don’t like the placement. There’s a lot of things you can use it for, so let’s check them out.

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1: Matching stripes, plaids, & patterns:

You don’t need a sewing machine for this one. Lay the thread on the right side of the fabric, along where you want the seam to be. Then take your second piece, line the pattern up to where you want it, and leave it right sides facing together. Give your fabric a quick press and the fusible thread will keep everything in place without pins!

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2: Applique:

Wind the Iron ‘n Fuse on an empty bobbin and use a regular sewing thread on top. Stitch around the appliqué shape, press, remove the top thread, and then trim closely. Use a decorative stitch on the raw edges of the fabric to finish appliquéing it down. The result is a natural looking appliqué without the stiffness of fusible interfacing; it also helps to reduce the puckering caused by using pins. If you happen to place your appliqué incorrectly, you can peel it up, move it and re-fuse it in place.

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3: Binding a quilt:

Place your folded binding on the wrong side of your quilt. Use a tight zig zag to attach it to the quilt, with fusible thread in your bobbin and regular thread in the top.  Now turn your binding to the right side and fuse over the seam. You can now stitch your binding down, stitching close to the edge of the binding. You will be sure to catch the underside of your binding.

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4: In the lower loopers of a serger: 

Serge around your hemline with fusible thread in the lower looper of your serger and regular thread in the needle and upper looper. Turn up hem and fuse, then turn your work to the right side and stitch for a simple turned up hem.

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5: Curved hem:

Run a row of long basting stitches along your curved hem edge, with a regular thread in the needle and the fusible thread in the bobbin. Gently pull up on your bobbin thread to ease in the shape of your curved hem, and then fuse your hem in place. This will make hand stitching your hem in place easier. You could also turn your work right side up to machine stitch your hem without worrying about the hem being distorted on the underside.

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6: Placing zippers:

Baste your zipper opening closed, then press the seam open. Run a row  of stitching along both seam allowances, with the fusible thread in the needle and the bobbin. Center your zipper under your seam, and press both sides to fuse down the seam allowances and at the same time fuse your zipper in place. You can now stitch around your zipper without worrying about it shifting. When your stitching is complete, remove the basting thread that holds the opening closed.

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7: Making pleats crisp:

Mark your pleat lines on your fabric (both inside pleats and outside pleats). Now stitch a scant 1/8” away from the marked lines, with regular thread in the top and fusible thread in the bobbin (the bobbin thread should be on the inside of the pleat). Using a press cloth, press along your marked lines. The fusible thread will help to make the pleats crisp.

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Let us know how you like to use iron fusible thread in the comments, or if this blog inspired you to try something new using iron fusible thread! You can also watch these tips in action in the video below.

Inspired to sew with Iron ‘n Fuse? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing NEW WonderFil Wearables Series

Welcome to our new series, WonderFil Wearables! We’ll show you some great ideas and techniques for creating your own unique clothing items. Together, we’ll cover ways to embellish purchased garments, creating your own garments from scratch, adjusting existing patterns, and some of our own free simpler patterns you can download for yourself.

There will be tutorials for both beginners and advanced sewers on basic sewing machines, embroidery machines, and sergers. We’ll also talk about using WonderFil threads in wearable knit and crochet projects, and even venture into the exciting world of cosplay. So, whether you are just starting to sew or looking to expand into more challenging projects, this is the place for you. Join us each week to create your own one-of-a-kind wardrobe!

Metallic Embroidered Tie Tutorial (Free Embroidery Pattern Included!)

If you’re looking for that perfect gift for the father, husband, or friend in your life, this personalized embroidered tie will make a statement in any board room. We’ve even included 3 free digitized embroidery designs for you to download! All you need to do is choose your thread colours and add initials.

We have included 3 totally free digitized designs for you to download: a game controller, a fish and a bug. You can choose which you’d like to download and in what file type by clicking here. We are showing the finished product with a personalized monogram, but we leave these for you to add, so you can have the right initials.

We have chosen to use a purchased black tie as the backdrop for our embroidery. You can choose any color, but a solid color will show off the design better. To fit the included designs, the tie must be at least 2 inches wide at the point where you want your design to sit.

We have decided to stitch out the design in WonderFil’s metallic thread, Spotlite. Spotlite is a 40 wt metallic with a rayon core. Since rayon has no stretch, the core won’t stretch as a polyester or nylon core might. That stretching can cause the metallic wrap to separate, which causes the shredding and breaking that sometimes happens with metallic threads. Since the rayon core in Spotlite doesn’t stretch, that is less likely to happen, so you will have trouble free embroidery stitches, and a soft finish to the design.

We will be pairing the Spotlite with our 80wt DecoBob in the bobbin. Even very dense stitching stays soft when you have a fine bobbin thread and the evenly wound prewound bobbins will also ensure that you have no tension issues as you stitch out your design. As always, we will be using a Thread Tamer and a WonderGuard to tame the curl in the metallic thread, and a large eye 90/14 topstitch needle. As you will be using a sticky stabilizer to stabilize the tie, you can also use a universal super nonstick needle as another option. See our video on stitching trouble free with metallic thread without the headache to learn our tricks on sewing with metallic thread.

To begin, we will hoop this sticky stabilizer, paper side up, in the hoop. We are going to lightly score the paper around the edge of the hoop with a pin, and from corner to corner, so we can easily pull the paper away. Mark the center so you can easily place your tie on the right spot.

Decide where you want the center of your design to sit on the tie and mark the spot with some tailor’s chalk. With a stitch ripper, open up the back of the tie for at least 6”, so your tie can sit flat and open on the stabilizer. Using your hoop grid, place the tie centered on the hoop and smooth and press it in place so it sits flat and even.

Download the digitized design you prefer, in the format appropriate for your embroidery machine. If you choose, add the text or monogram from your machine’s text to the design before proceeding. Thread your machine with Spotlite in the first color, with a Decobob prewound bobbin in the bottom. Stitch out the design, changing colors as indicated. We have included the color numbers of Spotlite we used for our designs.

When your stitchout is complete, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and trim away on the underside of the tie. Trim all the threads, then using a hand needle and DecoBob, hand stitch the back of the tie closed again.

And there you have it. The man in your life will be proud to wear this fun, customized tie, and it is sure to be a conversation starter!

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

The Easiest Way to Hem a Pair of Jeans

Rather than rolling up your jeans or taking them to an expensive tailor, why not hem them yourself? This is one of those life skills that’s easy enough for anyone with a sewing machine to do themselves. Wearing jeans that are too long can wear away the denim around the heel in an ugly way. We’re here to show you our tried and true method of hemming jeans easily and quickly for a perfect fit. We’ll also show you our recommendation for notions that will give you the best look and results.

To begin, you’ll want to grab a piece of tailor’s chalk, preferably in white or another contrasting colour from your denim. Put on the pair of jeans that are too long and turn up the fabric under the wrong side of the pants until it’s at the desired length. We recommend doing this step while wearing shoes to ensure you take this extra height into consideration. It may help to have someone do this for you so you’re standing straight. Make a mark at the base of the fabric at the desired length using the tailor’s chalk.

Now measure the distance from the mark to the bottom of the original hem. You’ll want to mark the other leg at the same distance so they are the same length. Lay one of the legs flat and place a ruler straight against the line. Extend the line all the way down the fabric.

Holding the ruler in place against the line, you can flip over the pant leg over the ruler and continue drawing the line to the other side of the leg, being careful to keep it straight. You should now have a straight line running on both sides of the pant leg.

Do the same with the other pant leg. Now that both legs have been marked, you’ll want to mark your fold lines next. On the side of the line closer to the bottom of the pant leg, measure another half inch and make a new mark.

Now measure another half inch from your new mark, and make a third mark. You’ll want to once again extend these lines straight all the way around the pant leg on both legs. You should now have 3 solid straight lines travelling around both your pant legs.

Using a pair of sharp fabric scissors, cut off the pants closely following the bottom line, the one closest to the bottom of the pant leg. Do this for both pant legs. You can now begin sewing your new hem!

Most denim jeans will have a thick gold coloured thread, so it’s best to choose a thread that matches it to look consistent with the rest of the pants. We’ll be using this 12wt cotton thread called Spagetti in the bobbin. It’s a heavier than your usual 40 or 50wt thread, and closely resembles the decorative contrasting brown or golden thread used on jeans. The two Spagetti colours that tend to match most with this jean thread is SP11 or SP21. For this pair of jeans, I’ll be using colour SP21.

Because we’re using a thicker thread underneath, we want to use a finer thread in the needle. This will ensure the thread doesn’t struggle through the fabric, and it will give you a better stitch consistency and quality. But you don’t want just any finer thread up top, you want to make sure it is strong enough to hold your denim fabric together for a good long time.

We’ll be using DecoBob 80wt thread in the needle. This is a strong but lightweight polyester thread that is ideal to pair with Spagetti in the bobbin. We used a regular 80/12 size needle, however if you find your machine is struggling with the thicker denim fabric, you can also use a denim needle.

Don’t forget to increase your machine’s stitch length to 3.1. This will help with the machine’s tension when using the thicker 12wt thread, and also match the stitch length showing on the jeans.

Once the machine is set up, you can begin sewing. Roll up the hem following the remaining two lines so that the raw edge is tucked away. If you feel confident with keeping it straight you can begin sewing right away. However, we recommend beginners clip their hems in place to prevent it from moving using sewing clips. We prefer sewing clips instead of using pins because the thick denim can be difficult to penetrate with pins, and it doesn’t cause any puckering.

You’ll want to sew on the inside of the pant leg so you can follow the edge of the new hem. This way, your heavy 12wt thread in the bobbin will show on the right side of the pant leg.

We recommend starting on the bump of one of the side seams to hide your backstitching. Because of the thickness of the fabric in this area, you may need to gently turn the handle on the side of your sewing machine to manually sew the first few stitches. Sew close to the edge of the hem, being careful to keep your stitching straight and consistent. When you return to your start point, sew over the original stitching and don’t forget to backstitch again.

Trim your threads and you’re finished! You’ll have a new perfectly fitting pair of jeans that you hemmed yourself.

Inspired to sew? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/ for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase WonderFil threads from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

4 Popular Thread Myths You Should Ignore

There’s a lot of sewing myths out there, and a lot of the time they were made because of a lack of thread technology advancement or there simply weren’t any other choices available. We’re going to debunk these 4 popular thread myths that are simply no longer true.

Thread Myth #1: Always Use the Same Thread Top & Bottom

One of the most common thread myths we hear is that you must always use the same thread on the top and in the bobbin. This is simply not true, and here’s why. As your machine sews, the top and bottom threads are pulling against each other for tension. By choosing a finer bobbin thread such as this 80wt cottonized polyester called DecoBob, the bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread. This allows for a smoother tension and fewer thread breakages.

If you’re using a 50 or 40 weight thread to sew, which is the most common medium weight thread, the thread adds more extra bulk to the seams than most people realize. This 80wt bobbin thread is almost half the size of 50wt thread in comparison, and as a result will allow the stitches to lay flatter and the bobbin thread will show less.

This is most especially noticeable in embroidery where you have a lot of dense stitching all in an area. In this embroidery, the top section used a 50wt white bobbin thread. Below it, we switched to a white 80wt pre-wound bobbin. You can literally see the difference it makes simply by choosing to use a finer thread in the bobbin.

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Thread Myth #2: Embroidery Thread is Always 40wt Polyester

While we’re on the topic of embroidery, another thread myth we frequently hear is that an embroidery thread should always be a 40wt polyester. Don’t get us wrong, we love 40wt polyester for embroidery and it’s a great choice, but you can also achieve better results by changing up your thread depending on what kind of embroidery project you’re doing.

For instance, we stitched out several sizes of this embroidery pattern going from larger to smaller. The embroidery at the larger size looks great, however as you get smaller and smaller, you start to lose the detail and the lines become squished together. Any embroidery with many fine details benefits from using a finer thread. Here we used DecoBob 80wt thread in the top and bobbin and you can see how many details are kept at a smaller size.

For another comparison, we stitched out some lace using a 50wt cotton. We then stitched out the same lace pattern using DecoBob 80wt thread and you can see how many more details show up in the lace with the finer thread. So if you’re doing any embroidery with a lot of little details, always choose a fine thread to make it with. The results are worth it.

However, polyester isn’t your only choice for embroidery thread, what about rayon? Rayon and polyester have some differences, namely that rayon has a more beautiful, glossy sheen in comparison to polyester which carries more of a fragmented, artificial sheen. Rayon is also softer and more flexible to the touch, while polyester is stiffer and rougher to the touch. However, polyester is also able to withstand mild bleaching and is resistant to most chemicals while rayon is not. Rayon also tends to weaken when exposed to water and should therefore just be used for decorative elements and not construction purposes.

These are both good choices for embroidery but knowing the properties of each material will help you make a more informed choice when choosing the best one for your project. Don’t forget that cotton thread is also a beautiful embroidery choice as it offers an organic, matte look. And metallic thread which is also a stunning choice for anything you want to pop.

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Thread Myth #3: Metallic Threads Are Fickle and Always Break Too Easily

Metallic threads have a reputation for being fragile and difficult to sew with. However, it’s best to keep in mind that 1) not all metallic threads are made with the same quality, and 2) thread technology has advanced from the last few decades and many of the previous problems have now been addressed. This is Spotlite, a metallic thread made by WonderFil threads. Something that makes it unique is that it uses rayon for its core, meaning the metallic foil is wrapped around a core thread made of rayon.

Many companies opt for polyester as the core due to its strength, however we chose a rayon core because rayon has zero stretch to it. As polyester tends to carry more stretch to it, as the thread goes through all the bends in the machine, the thread can stretch around those corners, causing it to break. As rayon carries no stretch at all, this causes significantly fewer thread breaks and allows for a smooth sewing experience. It also means that stretching doesn’t pull the metallic foil away from the core, which would change the texture and reveal a different colour in the stitching.

We always recommend using a DecoBob 80wt pre-wound bobbin in the bottom with any metallic thread. As mentioned before, this will allow the bobbin to always give way to the top tension, resulting in fewer thread breaks and tension problems. Check out our video on sewing with metallic threads (without the headache) for a deeper look at sewing with metallic threads!

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Thread Myth #4: Polyester Thread Cuts the Fabric So You Should Only Quilt with Cotton

This is one of the most common thread myths we hear because decades ago there was some truth to it. Since then, thread technology has made leaps and bounds in advancement, and polyester threads have become one of the easiest and best choices to sew with. Not only does the polyester thread not damage the fabric it is sewn into, it actually lasts longer and is more resilient than cotton over the years. It also carries next to no lint, meaning you’ll need to clean out your machine less frequently.

Let us know in the comment section if you learned something from this video or if you have your own thread myth to debunk. Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Hand Stitched Buttonholes Tutorial

With all the beautiful machine buttonhole stitches out there right now, why bother making hand stitched buttonholes? Sometimes, you want to add a beautiful vintage look to your project. Or you might be working with a very heavy coat fabric and are struggling to get nice machine buttonholes. Or maybe you just want to add that extra special look to a project.

Handstitching your buttonholes can add a vintage look to your finished project, and choosing the right threads will give it a professional polish that will make it worth the extra effort. We’ll show you step by step how to mark, stitch, and cut your buttonholes for perfect results each time.

We are going to use this extra fine 100wt thread, InvisaFil, to stitch together the edges of our buttonhole. As the thread will be sitting under the decorative stitches, we don’t want it to show or add any bulk. Invisafil is a 100 wt polyester, so, while it is strong, the stitches will disappear in the fabric and won’t be seen.

We will also need a gimp thread to add extra strength and a bit of lift to our buttonhole. For this we will be using HomeDec. HomeDec is a very strong polyester thread that comes in three weights (30wt, 40wt, 60wt). We will be using the heaviest 40wt for this project, in a color to match the fabric.

For our decorative buttonhole stitch, we will use this 12wt double gassed cotton thread called Spagetti. The tight twist will make stitching easy, and the 12 weight thread gives a nice bold finish to the buttonhole.

We will need two hand stitching needles. For the fine InvisaFil thread, we’ll be using a #11 sharp needle. And for stitching with the heavier Spagetti, we will use a #7 embroidery needle which has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.

Using a spacing tool and some tailors chalk, evenly mark the starting point of each of your buttonholes.

As buttons all have different depths, here is a trick to mark the length of your buttonhole. Wrap your chosen button with a piece of twill tape, going around the fullest part of the button. Pin the ends of the twill tape.

Now pull out the button and lay the tape flat. The distance from the pin to the folded edge will be the length of your buttonhole.

Measure this length and mark the end of each buttonhole. Use a straight edge and some chalk to mark the buttonhole line.

Using a buttonhole cutting tool like this one by Clover, cut along this line. Cut and finish only one buttonhole at a time.

Thread a #11 sharp needle with InvisiFil, tying an overhand knot right behind the eye of the needle to prevent it from unthreading. Now begin to do a close whipstitch all along the open edge of your buttonhole, to hold the layers together.

Next, thread a #7 embroidery needle with a length of the Spagetti. Now, cut a length of the HomeDec thread twice the length of the buttonhole plus another 1 inch. (We’re using a bright, contrasting color in this demonstration so you can see it, but if you do it yourself, you should choose a thread color that matches the fabric). Hold or tape the gimp thread along the cut edge of the buttonhole. Starting at the back end of the buttonhole begin working a buttonhole stitch along the edge, catching the gimp thread underneath your stitch.

Work the buttonhole stitches close together to for a nice pearl edge along the cut edge of the buttonhole. When you get to the front end of the buttonhole work 3 or four stitches around the curve, before going back down the other side of the buttonhole, making sure to still catch the gimp thread underneath.

When you are back at your starting point, work a tack stitch of 3 to 4 stitches across the width of the buttonhole.  Pull your thread to the underside and thread the end through the under side of your stitches before trimming it off. Thread the gimp thread through the large eye needle thread it to the underside, and cut it off. Repeat this for all of your buttonholes.

That is all there is to it. While this is a bit time consuming, it will definitely add a special touch to your project. Pictured below is a finished buttonhole with a gimp thread that matches the color of the fabric.

Inspired to sew with WonderFil threads? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

9 Ways to Sew With Fine 80-100wt Threads

You may have seen these ultra-fine 80 and 100wt threads on store shelves, but what would you want to use such a thin thread for? As it turns out, these thin threads not only have a ton of great uses, they can also perform better for certain techniques than a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread would. We’ll show you when to use these threads and why you should choose them.

Let’s take a quick look at these two 80 and 100wt threads by WonderFil. This 80wt thread is called DecoBob, and the 100wt thread is called InvisaFil. They are both made from cottonized polyester, which is a 100% polyester thread that has been treated to take the stretch and shine out of it, giving the thread a matte finish that hides in the fabric. Because they’re made from polyester, you’ll find they’re actually quite strong despite their size. So, how can you use them?

1.Piecing

This is one of the most common techniques that comes up for sewers, but have you ever considered what thread to use when doing it? As it turns out, the choice of thread will make a huge difference. We always recommend using an 80wt thread in the top and bottom for piecing, such as DecoBob, because the thread won’t add any additional bulk in the seams. This allows the pieced fabric to sit flatter and it makes it easier to match up your patterns. The difference is actually visible.

This thread is especially good with foundation paper piecing. We recommend lowering the stitch length to around 1.8 for added security. This also makes it easier to tear the paper out without pulling out your stitching by accident.

2.Quilting

Both 80wt DecoBob and 100wt InvisaFil are a great choice for quilting when you don’t want the thread to show. We used a light grey InvisaFil to quilt this multi-colored quilt, and as you can see, the fine thread blends into every colour. You only need to choose a basic or slightly match the color to the fabric for it to blend in, making it easy to show the texture of your quilting without showing the thread itself.

InvisaFil is especially fantastic for micro quilting or any dense quilting. Because the thread is so fine, it doesn’t add a lot of bulk to the fabric. This means you can stitch densely, and your quilt will still stay soft and flexible.

3. Machine embroidery

Most embroidery threads are a medium 40wt. However, delicate, highly detailed designs, monogramming, and small embroideries will look even better when used with InvisaFil™ thread. This ultra-thin thread makes it possible to keep all the details in small or highly detailed designs that a regular 40wt embroidery thread won’t be able to. This includes lettering as the fine thread will keep edges looking sharp and crisp.

4.Bobbin thread

We always recommend using a finer thread weight in the bobbin with any thread on top. Choosing an 80wt thread like DecoBob will greatly improve your tension and stitch quality as this finer thread won’t fight for tension in the machine with the top thread. This is especially important when you’re using a thicker thread in the top, such as a 12wt, as you really don’t want to be putting that much bulk in your seams and through the fabric. An 80wt thread like DecoBob will allow your stitching to sit flatter while staying strong enough to be used for any sewing technique.

DecoBob pre-wound bobbins in size Class 15

5.Stitch in the ditch

Many sewers will reach for a monopoly thread to sew invisible stitches, you know, those threads that are translucent and often come in clear or smoke. However these threads can still be seen under bright lights and are stiff and inflexible when sewn with. This is why we recommend using InvisaFil 100wt thread instead. You only need to choose a basic color like grey, or one that slightly matches the color of the fabric for it to blend right in. So even if you sew out of your ditch, this forgiving thread won’t show up anyway.

6.English paper piecing

This hand technique relies on stitching pieces of fabric wrapped around paper pieces together. Because these pieces sit tightly against each other, a finer thread will make a big difference as to how tightly the pieces lay against one another, and also how much the thread will show up. This is why we recommend using 100wt InvisaFil as opposed to a regular medium weight 40 or 50wt thread. If you’re someone who tends to tug on their thread when you sew and frequently run into thread breaks when doing EPP, then you can use DecoBob 80wt thread instead. We also recommend DecoBob for those who have arthritis in their hands and struggle more with using the finer 100wt InvisaFil.

7.Hand and machine appliqué

If you’re doing decorative appliqué and don’t want the stitches to be seen, InvisaFil has your back. When doing needle turn appliqué, your appliqué pieces will sit a lot flatter against the background, and the 100wt thread is a master at disappearing. You can even appliqué your pieces by machine using a tiny zigzag stitch. Because InvisaFil is so small, you only need to match the colors to the fabric just slightly and they still won’t be seen. How impressive is that?

8.Buttonholes

Whether you’re making your buttonholes by hand or machine, these finer threads are a great choice. Should you be sewing your buttonholes by hand, use InvisaFil 100wt thread to stitch together the raw edges of your buttonholes, before going over them with a thicker decorative thread on top. The finer thread will disappear into the fabric so you won’t see it holding the edges together. If you’re doing your buttonholes by machine, then you can choose DecoBob 80wt thread to create nice tight stitches without the thread clumping up.

9.Sewing & serging sheer or lightweight fabrics

Chiffon, organza, and tulle are some of many lightweight and sheer fabrics you may come across. These fabrics can be difficult to work with, but using a fine 80 or 100wt thread allows the fabric to not be weighed down by the stitching, nor will the stitches show up in sheer fabrics. Whether you’re serging hems, doing construction sewing, or any kind of general sewing with these fabrics, always choose DecoBob or InvisaFil to do it with.

We hope this list gives you some insight into where you can use these threads in your projects, and why we recommend them! Inspired to sew with InvisaFil and DecoBob? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up for our free newsletter to receive more educational sewing tips, tutorials, and free patterns. Register by clicking here! We’ll see you again next time!

Sewing the BEST Stitch in the Ditch Tutorial

Stitch in the ditch is a technique where you sew directly in the fold of a seam to hide your stitching, while securing your quilt block down. This way you don’t see any quilting around that area of the block. If you’re looking to sew stitch in the ditch on your latest quilt or project, we have the best tips on making it look invisible and perfect. Let’s take a closer look!

The first and most important thing to do before you even begin is choosing the right thread. We recommend using InvisaFil, a 100wt cottonized polyester thread that is incredibly fine and hides in the fabric wherever it’s stitched. A basic colour such as grey, or a color that even slightly matches the fabric will be enough for it to hide almost completely. This will ensure your stitching shows as absolutely little as possible, even if you accidentally sew outside the seam.

Because this thread is finer, you can choose a 70/10 or 80/12 size needle. This smaller needle will punch a smaller hole in the fabric so that the fine thread won’t be sitting in too large of a hole.

You can use the same thread in the bobbin, or alternatively a similar thread called DecoBob. DecoBob is also a cottonized polyester thread, but it’s marginally thicker at 80wt. This gives your stitching a slightly stronger hold and it also is available as convenient pre-wound bobbins. These pre-wounds will give you a better stitch consistency and even tension.

Choose a machine foot that is marks the center needle position. This makes it easier to line up the seam you’ll be stitching into.

Start from one end of the seam and carefully sew all the way to the end. Don’t forget to back stitch at the beginning and end.

Don’t worry if you fall off your path a little, if you’re using the correct thread then it won’t even be visible.

That’s actually all there is to it! Simply choosing the right tools for the job is the best way to get perfect results, even if it’s your first time trying this technique.

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Easy English Paper Piecing Tutorial

English paper piecing is hand sewing technique where fabric is wrapped around a paper template to create a precise design. These pieces are then hand stitched together into a pattern that can be used in quilts, crafts, or decorating any sewing project you like!

It’s great for designs that don’t have long straight sides, but instead have numerous set-in corners, such as hexagons or diamonds. It’s also very portable, meaning you can work on your project while travelling, and is wonderful for meditative hand stitching.

WonderFil has come up with a popular thread that will allow paper piecers to have the tightest, flattest seams possible. You may have heard of it. It’s called InvisaFil, and this is a 100wt thread, meaning it’s incredibly fine. It disappears almost completely into your fabric, and because it’s so thin, it allows your pieces to sit snugly against each other.

Since we’re using such a fine thread, we want to use a needle with a smaller eye. A #11 or #12 sharps needle will work well since the eye is small enough that the thread won’t slip out easily.

You’ll also want your paper template which can be purchased pre-cut like these, or you can print your template on cardstock and cut them out. Paper piecing templates are available in all shapes and sizes, but today we’re going to be demonstrating with the traditional hexagon.

You will also need your fabric, which will need to be cut larger than the template to allow for turn over. We like to cut them with a generous quarter inch allowance on each side.

As an option, some people like to use fabric glue to shape the fabric around the template. The advantage of glue is that it is fairly easy to prepare your pieces. The disadvantage is that it is a bit harder to remove the paper backing once you’ve joined the pieces. The alternative is putting small stitches in the fabric behind the piece, so we’ll demonstrate both methods so you can choose the best one for yourself.

Now to begin, we’re going to prepare the hexagons. Here is our template and fabric, and you can see that we’ve cut our fabric larger than the template. First, we’re going to demonstrate using glue to attach the fabric to the paper.

Place your fabric right side down and center the template on the fabric. Run a line of glue along one side of the template and press the fabric down, making sure to keep the template centered and the fabric wrapped tightly over the edge.

Now run another line of glue along the joining side of the hexagon, making sure to get glue on the folded fabric from the previous fold. Push the corner in as you press this row down, once again keeping your template centered and the fabric firmly folded over.

Continue along each side until all the sides have been secured down.

Now we’re going to show you how to hand stitch the fabric to the template. Here’s our threaded needle, and when we’re using a fine thread like InvisaFil, we like to make a small hand-over knot in the thread right behind the eye of the needle. Because the thread is so fine, this won’t impede your stitching, but will prevent your thread from slipping out of the needle.

Now we’re going to knot the tail of the thread with a good knot. When you take your first stitch, take care to pull gently so as not to pull the knot through the fabric. When you take a few stitches in one spot, your thread will be secure.

First, finger press one side down, keeping your template centered. Now use your finger to push the corner in and finger press the next side over. Holding the corner down with your finger, take a few small stitches in the corner using a simple whip stitch.

Moving to the next corner, repeat this process. The thread will run along the side of the hexagon, parallel to the edge. Pull your stitches firmly to keep your edges tight and continue to work around your piece until all six sides are secure.

When you’re finished, take a few more small stitches in the first corner, knot the thread, and trim.

Now that we’re done our first piece, we’re going to give it a quick press with the iron to further sharpen the edges.

We’re now going to join the pieces together. First lay out your design and decide where you want to place each piece. Lay your adjoining pieces right sides together, working from the centre out. Thread and knot your needle as we showed before.

Starting exactly in the corner, take a few small whip stitches making sure to only catch a tiny amount of the fabric from both sides. Now you can begin working your way across, doing a small whipstitch and again trying to catch only a tiny amount of both fabrics with each stitch.

When you reach the next corner, take a few small stitches again in the exact corner of both sides. This will secure your stitching so it doesn’t come out. Your first two pieces are attached!

Now you can attach your next piece to the centre piece in the same manner again. Remember again to stitch in the exact corner and catch both ends of fabric. Continue until all the pieces are joined to the centre piece.

To join two of the outside pieces together, you’ll notice that we won’t be able to place this piece right sides together like before, so we’ll need to work from the underside and join them again with a whip stitch. Folding them slightly towards each other will make it easier.

After your design is completely, you’ll want to remove the paper templates. Sticking a pin into them will help you to pop them out. If you used glue, a light spray of water can help you pull the template free.

Not all designs have a circular flower, but once you master this, you’ll be able to play with your layout and paper piece any shapes in any arrangement! Leave a comment if you have any questions or something to share about your EPP experience. 

You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

Introducing Spotlite™ 40wt Rayon Core Metallic Thread

Metallic threads are a gorgeous choice for any decorative stitching, machine embroidery, or decorative quilting. They shine in a way no other thread can. But many people struggle to use metallic threads because they can be a little more fickle to sew with than others. Let’s take a closer look at WonderFil’s 40wt metallic thread called Spotlite and what makes this special thread stand out.

Metallic threads are designed with a thin metallic foil wrapped around a core made of another material. Many thread manufacturers will use polyester for the core because polyester is a strong, durable material. However, polyester also tends to carry a stretch to it. As the thread passes through the thread path in the machine and around all those bends, it can stretch around those bends, causing thread breaks. Stronger doesn’t always equal better in this case.

This is why WonderFil takes a different approach and uses rayon for the metallic thread’s core. Rayon carries zero stretch to it, meaning it won’t stretch around the bends in a machine’s thread path. This leads to fewer thread breaks and shredding, as well as a higher stitch quality.

We always recommend choosing a quality metallic thread as not all metallic threads are made equally. The quality of the thread you use will directly impact how easy it is to sew with, which is especially noticeable when using a metallic thread.

So, what can you use metallic threads for? The possibilities are truly endless. Because of metallic’s beautiful sheen, you can achieve a look and texture not possible with any other kind of thread. Even a single stitch of metallic can add a pop of sparkle to your quilts. Should you choose to quilt with metallic thread, we recommend using it only for art quilts, wall hung quilts, or small areas of decorative stitching on bed quilts, as metallic thread doesn’t have the same strength as regular quilting threads.

Quilting with Spotlite™ 40wt rayon core metallic.

Denser stitching such as thread painting will really show off the iridescent beauty of Spotlite thread. Artist Teri Cherne stitched layers of Spotlite to create this stunning thread painted piece. You can also use it in the embroidery machine for a beautiful metallic look to your embroidery designs. This thread is an exceptional choice for freestanding lace patterns, and you can easily and quickly make freestanding lace ornaments for the holidays.

For best results, always pair Spotlite thread with a super fine bobbin thread like DecoBob 80wt cottonized polyester. This fine thread plays nice with any top thread, which makes a big difference in the stitch quality of a metallic thread. It will also further reduce thread breaks and shredding, and prevent tension changes.

You should also ensure you’re using the right needle for this thread. We recommend a 90/14 or 100/16 topstitch needle, or a 90/14 metallic needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye, giving the metallic thread more space to move around and preventing the thread from shredding. Metallic needles are designed to shield the thread as it passes through the fabric, which also prevents shredding. Both needles are a good choice when using this thread. You can also use Spotlite on the longarm machine with a size 16 needle.

While metallic threads aren’t usually recommended for hand sewing, you can get away with it if you cut shorter strands. Choose a sharps needle with an eye large enough to fit the thread and only cut strands no longer than 18 inches long, or you may end up with tangling issues.

You can choose from a range of 40 different colours with Spotlite. Or pick up a Spotlite tube which includes 4 coordinated colours, as well as a free sheet of Wonder Guard.

If you haven’t used a Wonder Guard before, this handy little thread guard is a must for metallic threads. Simply wrap it around the spool, snugly but not too tightly, and you can actually sew with it on.

If you’ve used metallic threads before, you’ll notice they tend to have a curl to them, or a memory. This is the thread holding the shape of the spool it was wrapped around. A Wonder Guard will help pull those curls off the thread as the thread draws off the spool, preventing those curls from entering the machine and messing up your tension. They’re also perfect for storing the thread when you’re not using it!

For our guide on how to sew with metallic threads easily, don’t forget to check out our video, “How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)”.

Inspired to sew with Spotlite? Head on over to shopwonderfil.com for a list of stores and retailers you can purchase from. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

How to Sew With Metallic Threads (Without the Headache)

Ever tried sewing with metallic threads and struggled with breakages and tension problems? It doesn’t need to be that way because metallic thread technology has come a long way, and we’re here to share some easy tips on how to make these dazzling threads run through your machine like magic. Just follow these easy steps and you too can add metallic threads to your sewing arsenal!

We’re going to tackle something a lot of people have struggled with: sewing with metallic threads. These threads can be intimidating to some people who have had a bad experience with them in the past, and we’re here to tell you that doesn’t need to be the case. Keep these simple steps in mind and you’ll be stitching with metallics stress-free!

First off, not every metallic thread is made the same. You’ll always want to use a high quality metallic thread, which will make all the difference when sewing with it. A lot of companies use a polyester core in their metallic threads because they think polyester is stronger.

However, polyester will also stretch more, so when the thread runs through all those bends in the machine, it will pull and stretch and increase the likelihood of it breaking. A stretchy core also means that when the thread is stitched out, it will stretch away from the metallic foil wrapped on top, exposing a white core which will show in an ugly way in your stitching.

WonderFil uses a rayon core in its Spotlite metallic threads, which has no stretch to it, which greatly reduces the likelihood of it breaking. It also means the core won’t stretch away from the foil in your stitching, so your stitches will look the way it’s intended to.

Now one of the most important things to do when sewing with a metallic thread is to use the correct bobbin thread. We strongly recommend a lighter weight bobbin thread such as DecoBob 80wt, and you’ll want to choose something like this because it won’t fight for tension with the metallic in the top. A lighter bobbin thread will always give way to the top thread, and it will also greatly reduce the bulk in your stitching so your needle won’t be pushing through more material. This will make a huge difference when sewing with a metallic thread.

The next thing you’ll want to keep in mind is which needle you’re using. If you’re sewing on a domestic machine or embroidery machine, use a 90/14 topstitch needle or a 90/14 metallic needle. If you’re using it on a longarm, use a size 16 needle. Always make sure when starting a project that you have a new needle in your machine, as even a small burr in the eye or a dull needle can cause a lot of grief.

Now these next steps aren’t necessary to run a metallic thread, but they will make your life easier. Metallic threads tend to carry more memory, meaning they’ll curl up on themselves a little. If the thread enters your machine this way it can cause tangling and thread breakages. A thread stand like the Thread Tamer has an attachment with multiple slots at the top where you can weave your thread through, which will help pull those little knots and curls out before it has a chance to enter your machine.

If you do not own a thread stand with this attachment, you can put your thread in a large cup or bowl behind your machine, which will give the thread a chance to relax before it enters your machine. However, a thread stand will still do a better job of this. 

Finally, you can use a Wonder Guard thread guard to additionally help pull those little curls out of the metallic thread and keep it from sliding around the spool as it comes off. The Wonder Guard is a wrap that clings to itself, which you can place snugly but not tightly around the metallic spool. Unlike a thread net which clings tightly against the spool and can change your tension, the Wonder Guard will sit over top the thread so it won’t change the tension at all.

By following these few simple steps, you can use metallic threads to embellish any kind of project. These threads are stunning to look at, so add them to your sewing arsenal without the headache. 

We hope you were able to learn something from this video and can feel more confident and comfortable when working with metallic threads. If you still have any questions, feel free to ask us in the comment section below! Inspired to sew with Spotlite™? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.

5 Clever Sewing Tips You May Not Have Thought Of!

We have 5 of our favourite sewing tips, perfect for any sewist. These clever tips can help run your sewing room more efficiently and improve your projects!

1. This seam remover from Kai Scissors can be your new best friend! When you have to rip out your seams, carefully use this tool to cut speedily through the stitches. It will save you so much time!

2. When you are cutting small pieces out of a pattern, instead of using pins, try using Wonder clips to hold together the pattern pieces to the fabric. This way not only it will hold together the pieces firmly, but you will also have something to grab on to while cutting such delicate pieces.

3. Have you ever used cork or leather for a project and experienced big holes whenever you tried to pin them together? Plus those heavy weight materials always make it difficult for pins to go through, too! In this case, try using Wonder clips instead of pins. They can hold your material together without leaving any holes in your project!

4. How do you store your cutting mats? A good way to store them flat is to hang them using binder clips. This way, the cutting mat doesn’t take up too much space and also can prevent it from getting warped when it leans against the floor and a wall.

5. Do you ever find it hard to organize all your hand needles in the correct sizes and sometimes forget which one is the one you were looking for? Take an old pin cushion and mark each section with the needle sizes that you use. When you pull one out to put in your machine, mark the spot with a decorative pin!

Ready to start sewing? You can find a list of stores that carry WonderFil threads on www.shopwonderfil.com/shop-local/. You can also sign up to receive weekly sewing tips, free patterns, and tutorials in our newsletter. Register by clicking here! You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe button on the footer of every email you receive.